From the endlessly discussed Scandinavian scarf to Prada’s ₹1 lakh kolhapuris, there’s no denying South Asia’s impact on the global fashion industry. Western designers are all too happy to take inspiration from our traditional garments, but in doing so, often just recycle centuries-old styles without recognising the cultural significance of their influences. As we watch labels across the world appropriate South Asian traditions, it’s important for us to recognise the homegrown labels that draw from their own roots, transforming heritage and history into something novel.
mayaraj is a New York-based label that bridges the gap between Tamil heritage and contemporary menswear. Its founder, Mayan Rajendran, tells us that, “mayaraj is the safe space I created for myself in fashion in NYC.” He uses fashion as an expression of his multi-cultural identity. His work exists at the intersection of his Tamil background and American experiences, infusing Americana with a South Indian flair. “I just wanted to build a world that forged my life experiences and showcased garments that interpret both elements of my upbringing,” Rajendran explains.
mayaraj’s designs aren’t constricted by convention. Rather, Rajendran’s work is a playful exploration of where cultures can overlap. The Manju Selai Jacket, for instance, is an asymmetrical suit jacket with a long, removable shawl lapel, taking inspiration from dupattas and saree pallus to reimagine a Western workwear staple. Its bottom counterpart, the Manju Suit Sarong, is a wool pinstriped lungi, subverting expectations whilst drawing on tradition.
As is the case with the Manju Selai Jacket, mayaraj’s designs are modular, allowing their wearers to use the same garments in several different ways. This exploratory, free-spirited approach is also a celebration of complex, diverse identities. “We live multi-faceted lives and they demand us to tap into different identities,” Rajendran says. “We are as modular as the clothes I have created.”
mayaraj is, at its core, a love letter to multicultural identity. Rajendran’s appreciation for his heritage shines because he is unafraid to expand on tradition. His artistry is fueled by a love for where he came from and where he is now. As the global fashion industry continues to blur the lines between cultural borders, I hope that more designers take a page out of mayaraj’s playbook and show true appreciation for our cultures, rather than using them as a gimmick.
“I am neither here nor there, but I am always here in this moment. I want to see the borderless faces of the future wearing ensembles that remind us of my proud heritage as a Tamil living in Brooklyn and trying to figure out how to make it in America, my way.”Mayan Rajendran
mayaraj will be hosting a pop-up with Society of Cloth, a retailer dedicated to platforming emerging South Asian designers, at 36 Orchard Street in the Lower East Side. mayaraj's pieces will be up for sale on July 23 and 24, and an event for the brand will take place from 6-9 pm on the 23rd.
Follow mayaraj here.
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