In a post-partition India, many people who were forced to flee from the Sindh region in present-day Pakistan came and sought refuge in cities of Thane and Mumbai. As more and more Sindhis began to settle down, they brought with them the gift of undiscovered cultural nuances like the concept of a sleeveless blouse, a unique business-mindedness, and most importantly – the practice of eating out.
Soon enough, natives, who’d so far only gorged on Maharashtrian delicacies like missal pavand puran poli, were now discovering afternoons of warm, moist rice mixed with Sindhi Kadhi and Bhugal Bhee Alu (a lotus stem preparation). A culinary adventure that started way back in the aftermath of 1947 has lasted to date, resulting in a number of authentic Sindhi food joints run by descendants themselves. From fresh tandoori meat to a variety of Sindhi dal preparations, Mumbai, in many ways, has morphed into a mecca of home-cooked Sindhi food. Here are some places where you can get a taste of this lesser-explored cuisine.
I. Sindhful
Where: Haji Mansion, 5th Road, KharWest, Khar, Mumbai
Brainchild of Chef Kanchan Ahuja and Sannat Ahuja, Sindhful is probably one of the few successful attempts at introducing Sindhi cuisine to the masses. What initially started as a delivery service is now a full fledged restaurant. Koki with chole and boondi raita, dal pakwan, arbi tuk, Sindhi kadhi chawal, macroni aalo, kheema pav and their home-style chutney are some of the restaurant’s most popular dishes. Sindhful’s pocket friendly rates are another reason for trying out their authentic Sindhi fare.
Cost for two: INR 800
II. Guru Kripa
Where: 40, Guru Kripa Building, Road 24, Near SIES College, Sion, Mumbai
Guru Kripa is famous across Mumbai for its mouth-watering samosas. Buzzing with college kids and locals alike, the eatery’s dal pakwan, and Sindhi style paani puri will keep you wanting for more. They also serve delicious sev barfi. However, Guru Kripa is not for those looking to have a relaxed meal. The staff with their impeccable service, mean business, and are sure to usher you out almost immediately after you’re done with your meal.
Cost for two: INR 300
Where: 7-8, Madhuban, Opposite Canara Bank, P.D Hinduja Marg, Khar, Mumbai
If you’re a Sindhi living away from home, and miss your dal pakwan breakfasts and kadhi chawal lunches, then, Tharu Sweets is the place for you. Tharu Sweets’ Sunday specials are as authentic as they get and are packed with flavour. We also highly recommend their delicious Indian sweets, especially the decadent Karachi halwa, gheeyar and praghree.
Cost for two: INR 200
IV. Jhama Sweets
Where: 2, Atur Park, Sion Trombay Road, Chembur, Mumbai
In 1950, a Sindhi refugee named Jhamamal Lulla was forced to uproot himself and relocate to the Indian soil. In trying to rebuild a new life he set up Jhama Sweets in Chembur camp area. Today, Jhama sweets is a chain of mithai shops sprawling across the length and breadth of Mumbai, offering a delightful variety of authentic Sindhi sweets and snacks like Sindhi Pattice and Dal Pakwan. We’d recommend trying out their sweets, especially the Sev Barfi which is a traditional Sindhi delicacy made with mawa and sev and topped with dry fruits.
Cost for two: INR 150
Where: Main Road, Chembur Camp, Chembur, Mumbai
With its seating space limited to a few plastic stools and assorted meat skewers on display, Gopal’s is a typical street food joint serving an array of chicken and mutton dishes. Although essentially Mughlai, the meat here is prepared in an authentic Sindhi style. The magic, after all, is in the marinades. From Chicken Potta to Gura Kapura Mix, everything is served fresh off the tandoor along with green and red chutneys. The biryani here comes with a fiery gravy and isn’t dry like your regular biryani. Mostly preferred for home-delivery or takeaway, Gopal’s food is infamous for its searing spice levels and is definitely not for the weak-hearted.
Cost for two: INR 300
VI. Sindhi Tadka
Where: Home Delivery
Sindhi Tadka, Madhu Jagtiani’s home kitchen based out of Chembur is only a year old, but it has taken its scrumptious food to every little corner of Mumbai. Her commendable cooking skills and an aspiration to introduce people to the specialities of home-cooked Sindhi food is what motivated her to start her own venture; the feedback and response from her loyalists are what kept her going. While Phote mutton and Phote chicken are some of her hot-selling signature dishes, her Kadi chawal and Besani Bhaji are equally delicious. Also, try the Kaju Cake and the Besan Laddoo in Ghee – a chef’s speciality.
Cost for two: INR 500
VII. Vig
Where: CG Road, Chembur Camp, Chembur East, Chembur, Mumbai
Creamy dhaba-style lassi served with a dollop of malai, crispy dal pakwan that is bound to get over by noon every day, and delicious cutlets stuffed with chana dal — such is the charm of Vig restaurant in Chembur. Currently run by the third-generation owner, Pravin Arora, Vig is known for its timeless homemade recipes handed down by Pravin’s mother and executed perfectly every day for the past 5 decades. Their samosas are served with mouthwatering Sindhi chole. Unlike other restaurants, Vig’s Sindhi cuisine is available from 6.30 am in the morning till 10 at night. In fact, people even start queuing up. While the ambience isn’t the best, it’s the quality, consistency, and taste of the food that keeps the customers coming back for more.
Cost for two: INR 250
VIII. Duma Dum Mast Kalandar
Where: Opposite Bezzolla Complex, next to Poonam petrol pump Suman Nagar, Sion Trombay Road, Chembur, Mumbai
Probably the only restaurant on our list that pairs alcohol with authentic Sindhi cuisine, Duma Dum Mast Kalandar follows recipes handed down by the older generation of the community, specifically the grandmothers. The food here is slowly cooked in earthen pots, leaving your palette with that distinct smoky flavour. Moreover, the staff cooks food in pure ghee only—so you’re guaranteed that home cooked taste! Catering to the vegetarians and non-vegetarians both, Duma Dum Mast Kalandar is usually swarming with people and has two levels of seating to accommodate for the same. Their Sukko Teevan (pan-fried mutton chaap) is an absolute winner as far as their non-veg menu is considered. Their menu offers a range of not just Sindhi cuisine but also Punjabi food.
Cost for two: INR 700
IX. Kailash Parbat
Where: Multiple outlets across Mumbai
Since decades, Kailash Parbat has been the go-to restaurant for chaat lovers across Mumbai. Famous for their South Indian food and Indian Chinese offerings, the restaurant also serves a range of Sindhi delicacies. Samosa chat, Seyal chawal, Sai Bhaji, Sindhi curry and Moongan ji makhani dal are some of the popular Sindhi dishes served at Kailash Parbat.
Cost for two: INR 500
Where: Shop No 2, Opp. TMC Water Tank, Ghodbunder Patlipada Service Road, Hiranandani Estate, Thane
Name after Sindhis’ unhealthy obsession with papad, this restaurant’s Dal Pakwan is proof enough of its authentic Sindhi roots. Their Arbi Tuk, Aalu Tuk, Soya pattice, Dal moong and koki, Sindhi bhaat, Sindhi chole too reinforce the same. They also have non-vegetarians covered with their Sindhi style mutton curry, Mutton Kheema pattice pav and Sindhi style boneless chicken.
Cost for two: INR 600
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