Known as the land of Llamas and high passes, Ladakh, with its colourful cultures, breathtaking landscapes comprising of some of the world’s highest peaks sitting in the Himalayan range, has always drawn tourists, explorers, academics and naturalists alike with its allure. The almost barren cold desert land of the region seems almost surreal set against the vast expanse of snow-capped mountains that have served as a natural barrier for countless years, thus, sheltering the scattered groups of ethnic and tribal communities that call this inhospitable terrain their home.
Nestled about 160 kilometres west of Leh lie four villages, Dah, Hanu — the two often being clubbed together as Dahanu — Darchik and Garkon, in what is called by many the Valley of the Aryans. Legend has it that the tall, green-eyed residents of the villages, referred to as Brokpa or Drokpa by the rest of the region’s settlers, are pureblood Aryans, direct descendants of members of Alexander’s Army who stayed back after their ruler had abandoned his campaign for expansion — well, at least that’s what they believe and have been told for many generations.
In 2016, photographer Trupal Pandya had been working on a story about the nomads of the Himalayas when he came across of the Brokpa community. Driving by he spotted people wearing flowers and beautiful outfits contrasting the natural landscape surrounding them. “We didn’t really have time to stop that time but that’s what got my interest going and I was sure that I was going to come back to document this group. I did my research, and soon, found myself in Brokpa land,” he tells Homegrown.
According to Dr. Veena Bhasin, Professor of Anthropology, Delhi University, who has spent years studying the Brokpa group, the tribe has resided in this part of Ladakh for over 5000 years now. Brokpas put forth their claim of being the region’s first settlers, having travelled from Europe, through Gilgit (Pakistan) and ultimately, Ladakh, and part of what is now Pakistan Occupied Kashmir, the four villages comprising what is the Dard region.
For years the four villages were shut off to contact with the outside world, and they were vary of the infiltration of the ‘outsiders,’ as they strived hard to keep their own cultural, social and religious beliefs and lifestyle intact, clear of any ‘contamination.’ Over time Dahanu let in curious explorers, giving them a glimpse of their traditional attire, green fields, colourful flower headdresses, called Tepi, and their agrarian, vegan, holistically organic way of life. “Brokpas were a very friendly community and were open to talking about their culture,” says Trupal about his initial interaction with community members. Sharing his own learnings with us, he explains that it was after the Indo-Pak war in 1999 that the Brokpas were connected to the ‘outside world’ by way of roads with the incoming armed forces. Electricity was soon being provided to the villages, and soon, as Trupal puts it, “the otherwise isolated tribe has now over time started adapting and opening up to the world.”
Theories have floated around, urban legends if you will, about this community’s lineage and heritage, although they call themselves Minaro, meaning Aryan. Numerous historians and academics have spent years attempting to write this group’s history, trying to prove or debunk their ‘Aryan’ perception but to little avail as the Brokpas continue to live as they have for thousands of years in near isolation in their remote villages.
“As per the Brokpa folklore, thousands of years ago three brothers - Galo, Melo and Dulo - escaped in search of a new land to settle down. The belief is that when these three brothers came to this region in Ladakh and emptied their shoes that were filled with husk to keep them warm during the journey; it multiplied into a profitable and sustainable crop. These three brothers who are said to be Aryans, settled there and their descendants are called the Brokpas.
The Brokpas have been made famous through claims of being the descendants of lost soldiers of Alexander the Great’s army and the purest of Aryan bloodline. Despite living in extreme isolation until the 20th century, the Brokpas have kept genetic pollution at bay and maintained that they are untainted. Though they have found no issue with spreading their genes outward as seen with a group of German women in 1938 in search of pure Aryan ‘seed,’ no new DNA has been introduced according to them. Though some genetic testing has been done, it has been inconclusive in proving or disproving the theory linking them to the lost soldier myth,” comments Trupal.
Going purely on physicality, it’s understandable why they stand out compared to their fellow Ladakhi citizens. Seeing their sharp features, light eyes and hair, some even kind of blonde, high cheekbones and strong muscular built with fair complexion, you notice at first glance the contrast to the dominant mongoloid features of the surrounding people.
Other than their jolly demeanour, what draws you to the Brokpas is their attire and headdresses. Adorning props, beautiful flowers each with their own purpose, pieces of metal and silver. The embellishments of the Tepi serve multiple purposes, such as representing their marital status, certain flowers are believed to have medicinal and healing properties while others to ward off evil spirits. “Men and women are seen wearing these coats lined with sheep fur with traditional silver and metal jewelry. One of the most unique elements of their cultural dress is the elaborate headgear that is call ‘Tepi’. Embellished with vivid flowers, metal jewelry, coins and colorful cloth, the Tepi is worn to ward off the evil and keep illnesses at bay,” says Trupal.
When it comes to a system of belief, the Brokpas today practice what would be akin to Buddhism, with spirituality being a key feature in their daily lives. “All the elderly Brokpa women chanted and prayed all day sitting on the side of the small dirt road in the village. As I approached one of them and inquired about what she was praying for, she replied, ‘I am praying for a better afterlife’. Brokpas believe in a cycle of death and rebirth called samsara. Through karma and eventual enlightenment, they hope to escape samsara and achieve nirvana, an end to suffering. They also believe in their own mystic Gods that they refer to in their folk songs and stories,” shares Trupal.
HG: They’ve been pretty closed off from the rest of society for a while now. From what you’ve gathered during your time together, how do they feel about the growing integration with the rest of Indian society, in terms of cultural assimilation and relocation of their youth?
TP: “Though very protective over their genetics, culturally they have morphed over time due to the influence of the surrounding territory. Their current religion is a mix of Boh (animalism-shamanism) and Buddhism which has formed a beautiful display of meaningful dress, incorporating flowers, metal jewellery and animal hair. This mixing of ideology amplified by genetic and geographic isolation has produced a culture so unique, that since opening up to tourism, has spectators flocking to see the Brokpas for themselves. Their way of life, way of dress and exotic features unmatched by any others in the region, make for a stunning and unique opportunity to look at this beautiful tribe.”
HG: What would you say is the biggest misconception people have regarding the tribe?
TP: “The biggest misconception is that their self-proclamation of being the first Aryans tends to shed a negative light on them, linking them to Nazism and their theories about Aryan brotherhood. This tribe does not necessarily believe they are the purest stock of the human race per the Nordic ideology but rather they identify with the true meaning of the word Aryan- which means noble man. It’s important to distinguish between the two to clear the Bropkas of any fanatical, negative racial practices.”
HG: In your personal opinion, has the opening-up to rest of society profited this community or facilitated the loss of their culture and traditions?
TP: “With no written historical record, the Brokpas rely on an oral history passed down through folklore and song through the generations. As seen with many tribes, the western influence has crept up to the youth. The younger generation is losing interest in Brokpa culture and only wear their traditional dress for holidays and ceremonies. It is not a matter or profit or harm, though opening up to society has brought with it the advances of modern society, it has also lead to diminishing traditions and it’s easy to see the cultural effects of globalization on such tribes thereby raising the issue of preservation of dying cultures.”
We’ve posted below a selection of images from Trupal Pandya’s documentation of the Brokpa community, you can view the entire series on his website.