Explore Nagaland’s Tribal History At This Plantation Homestay

When you think of Indian tea plantations, perhaps the first name that springs to mind is Darjeeling, or perhaps Assam, but hidden in the Northern regions of Nagaland is a tea plantation that will charm you with its beauty and legacy. The Konyak Tea Retreat lies on a 200 acre estate that is the origin point of the tribe of the same name. The host, Phejin Konyak lets out two rooms in her picturesque brick and wood house on a hill so you can get a taste of these breathtaking vistas.

As the great granddaughter of a tattooed headhunter Phejin is always happy to give you a quick history lesson, but a visit to the last generation of the fast-disappearing tribe in the Lungwa village is a must. Only a few hours from the retreat the village straddles the Indo-Myanmar border, since most of this tribe are well over 90 years old, legal borders mean little to them and it even runs through the house of the Angh, the king or village chief, leading to the joke that he dines in India and sleeps in Myanmar.

More of a home than a hotel, the cosy interiors of the retreat come with squashy sofas and plush rugs that just ooze comfort. Phejin herself welcomes you with fresh coffee as the smell of roasting fish and meat fills the air with the promise of a delicious dinner. Though primarily known for its tea plantation - a rarity in Nagaland - this is also a dream destination for any foodie looking for adventure. The villages of the Konyak region are the perfect to smaple the traditional Naga delicacies such as pork curry with bamboo shoot or boiled squash but the must-try is a beef chutney that is unique to the community.

Getting to this rural retreat can be a little daunting, with the nearest airport being a 6 hour drive away in Dibrugarh, Assam, but we can assure you, it’s well worth the journey. For Rs. 5,000 per night for two people (inclusive of all meals) you can get a glimpse into the mysterious secrets of Nagaland, a taste of their unique cuisine and journey through the most elusive and ancient tattoo culture in India. Everything about this retreat is the antithesis to a hurried city life so if you’re looking to explore natural beauty and a long-forgotten past, this may be the place for you.

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