Our Off Season Guide To Eating In Goa

Goan Fish ThaliCurry and Sherbet

The hill stations are where most people tend to make their escape during the Indian monsoons, leaving Goa far behind as far as options are concerned. As most people know, the little state is known for it’s ‘tourist season’ which stretches on from October to April, leaving the locals in peace during the months in between. Any trips taken to Goa from June onwards, are often met with, “Goa trip? In this weather?!”

Let me tell you a little something (that’ll have me facing the wrath of several locals, no doubt) — Goa is even more glorious in the monsoons. Think lush greenery, empty roads, glorious skies, rains that you can dance about in and of course; everything is a whole lot cheaper. Yes, several of Goa’s best restaurants close their doors for this season, but we’ve still got some local favourites up and running! Here’s a guide to some of the best food Goa has to offer and where to get some, even in this downpour:

I. Goan Fish Thali — All the curries and fried fish you could ever want on one plate.

If you’re from Mumbai and proud of your state’s fish thali, you haven’t tried some of Goa’s finest. Not only are these ridiculously cheap (some start at INR 100), they’re also super filling. A bowl of steamed rice, prawn curry, fried fish, kismoor (dried prawns), and more make up for one thali. Be warned though, this is a lunch speciality only.

HG Loves: Peep Kitchen in Caranzalem is known amongst the locals for their generous thali portions. Lunch hours are generally crowded, so be prepared to stand in line. Other local favourites for some good fish thali are Ritz Classic, Copperleaf, Kokni Kanteen and Cafe Bhonsle.

II. Traditional Goan Food — Chorizo, Cafreal, Vindaloo, and Recheado galore!

Home food served up in a restaurant is a regular thing in Goa. Most of the masalas are made by the mothers or grandmothers — although several sons are now stepping up to the plate. For some good ol’ Goan staples right out of a homely kitchen, you’ve got to go hunting. Sure, you can eat at every other restaurant there is, but this is for those willing to make the trip for some truly local cuisine.

HG Loves: Known for cooking right out of their house and serving you from a menu that changes daily, is Bhatti Village. Just ask the owner for a recommendation, and go with it. Vinayak is another family restaurant that’s out of the way, but absolutely worth the trip.

Image Source: Keli Paan

III. Beyond The Goan Palate — Pizzas with homemade cheese, juicy beef burgers, and more.

After a point, we get if fish-curry-rice doesn’t quite cut it. Plus, we’re all bound to have that one vegetarian friend who can’t find anything to eat at the above joints, which is why this category exists! We’ve got Italian, Japanese, American, and even South Indian (no, not just dosas).

HG Loves: When we heard Piccola Roma was making their own cheese, everyone assumed it’d be expensive. Well, y’all thought wrong — they’re possibly the cheapest pizzeria around town. Another crowd favourite is undeniably Burger Factory which as its name suggests is primarily known for the burgers. Gunpowder during the monsoons requires a reservation as their seating space is considerable smaller but trust us. Their Beef Fry, Chicken Korma and Malabar Parotta? Ultimate meal. The Black Sheep Bistro is for those who wish to wine and dine, while experimenting with new flavours.

IV. Breakfast — From Patal Bhaji to Eggs Benedict, we’ve got both ends of the spectrum.

If you’re wandering around at the crack of dawn in Goa, know that most Goans don’t open up shop till at least nine in the morning. To be honest, even that’s pushing it. However, if you’re patient enough, there are quite a few places that could make breakfast your favourite meal in Goa.

HG Loves: A quiet little cafe in Ucassaim called Whispering Cafe makes your eggs as you like it, but we’ve heard their Eggs Benedict is quite possibly the best yet. Plus, with their serene ambience, what better way to start your day? Not a fan of fancy breakfasts? Well thankfully, Goa has Tato’s, a chain of restaurants best known for their quick morning service. Grab a plate of Patal Bhaji, or better yet, ask for a mix of Sukhi and Patal — you’ll want the best of both worlds.

V. Goan Bakeries — Bebinca, Puffs, Paos, and more.

When you go on a holiday, people are bound to ask you to get them a souvenir of sorts. What better way to show your love than through food? Little bakeries have cropped up all over Goa and if you’re looking for some quick snacks, local bread, or desserts, we’ve got a list for you!

HG Loves: If bebinca is what you’re looking for, most bakeries (and wine stores!) will have Costaz stocked on their shelves. It’s nearly as good as the kind you’d get at other restaurants. If you’re simply looking for a quick bite or pastries, Goa has several cafes — Bodega (for a good brunch), Black Vanilla (for a sandwich or coffee), Cafe Basil (for their burgers) and Carasid (for their brownies). If you’re willing to sample some Goan street food (why wouldn’t you?!), make sure you stop by a street cart for Beef Cutlet-pao or Ros Omelette. Finally, if you love bread as much as we do, stop a paowalla and buy a pao or two. You’ll find them cycling around early in the morning or in the evening — just ask around for your nearest Goan bakery.