Eating Our Way Through Mohammad Ali Road

In a city bursting with settlers from across the country, Mumbai’s culinary palate is as diverse as its people, with dosas and sadhyas representing the south, Bengali fish thalis repping the east, and one of the perennial pleasers, the Mughlai food from the glorious north. From hole-in-the-wall joints to more established eateries serving succulent, juicy chunks of meat that are lathered in red and green masalas, Mumbai’s Mohammad Ali Road almost rivals the culinary authenticity of Purani Dilli. The atmosphere is peppered with a mixture of enticing aromas and flavours with palpable cheer and laughter as visitors can indulge in delicacies such as kheema samosas, nalli nihari, colourful chicken kebabs in interesting flavours, mutton kheema rolls, fresh fruit salads, pulpy juices and traditional sweet desserts such as the Aflatoon and the delicious Burhanpur Jalebi. Buzzing roadside stalls invite light-wallet patrons with intoxicating scents flooding the air and chic upmarket restaurants decorate their meat delights with a selection of chutneys, sides and more, finding a way to upgrade even this most gluttonous of experiences.

The fabrics of varied caste, creed and beliefs come together and weave themselves into a beautiful gastronomic tapestry of food for the soul. Albeit, tilted more toward the connoisseurs of the non-vegetarian kind, the sights, smells, colours and variety of food stalls that pop up at popular and lesser-known pockets of the city are a sight to behold.

So for all those craving the gift of the North Indian food Gods, we at Homegrown did fervorous research and ate our way through Mohammad Ali Road ourselves to combine a list of our favourite places in the area where you can spend a day savouring its mouth-watering delicacies from morning to night. Follow it as is, or eat anything any time of the day because there are no rules when it comes to such exciting food, except maybe just one to know before you go ahead and read this.
The list is strictly for carnivores only!

Breakfast

Masala Milk at Noorani Milk Centre

Masjid Bunder, Mohammad Ali Road

While breakfast at Mohammad Ali Road may seem a little bizarre, there’s more to its seedy lanes than just its mouth-watering meat delicacies. Walk into the Noorani Milk centre situated beside the Masjid Minara for a wholesome bottle of their masala milk. Served chilled in a plain glass bottle, the strong essence of the masala made using Almonds churned with Kesar in thick milk will give you the perfect kickstart for your day. While a bottle or two may be enough to keep you going for a few hours, there is no harm in packing some freshly made Malpua as you head to shop for a while. But we suggest leaving some space in your tummy so that you can hog your way through Mohammad Ali Road properly throughout the day.

Cost: ₹40 for a bottle of milk.

Lunch

Shahi Nalli Niharis and more at Chinese And Grill
Barkat Manzil, I.M. Merchant Road,Near Minara Masjid,

After spending a few hours shopping at either Bhendi, Crawford or Chor Bazaar, make your way back to the Minara Masjid and look out for a long stretching board of ‘Chinese And Grill’. The tempting display of kebabs at their takeaway counter just outside the restaurant would be enough to convince you to step in, but if you need a little more motivation, then let us tell you that their Shahi Nalli Nihari is the absolute best. Made authentically in a huge copper utensil they stuff it with bheja or brain to give it a more unique, succulent filling and an eclectic taste. Though the place hasn’t been around for too long it definitely rivals the quality of many old standing restaurants. As the name would suggest, Chinese and Grill, also serves some great Chinese (if you feel like you want to save the Mughlai affair for later in the day). Dig into their spicy, piquant Chilli Chicken and you would not be disappointed.

HG Tip: Ask around for the owner, Mr Taprez Patel who would very kindly take you through the nuances of their specialty.

Cost: ₹900 for two people (approx.)

Kebab Platters and Rann Biryani at Shalimar Restaurant

Vazir Building, Shalimar Corner, Bhendi Bazaar

If you are in the mood for something much more conventional, then the good old Shalimar is right around the corner. The small eatery has now evolved into a fancy restaurant with its branches even opening up in the suburbs, however, their original restaurant here still retains its old world charm and quality of food. While the prices on the menu may deter your spirit, but trust us when we say this, it is ABSOLUTELY WORTH it. If you are a large group or have the appetite of the Hulk, order their Khazana Kebab Platter (full non-veg platter) that has all their exquisite kebabs on offer. Else, settle for their Tiranga platter which serves the red and spicy chicken tikka, the creamy white Chicken Malai tikka and the flavorful green pahadi tikka. Another speciality to try here is the Rann Biryani, the various spices of which will tickle your palate. Served with a full leg of lamb, this would fill you up but keep you wanting for more. Shalimar is an iconic restaurant of the city known for its unique, innovative delicacies, most of which are guarded family recipes. Thus if you’re in Mumbai only for a little while, you cannot afford to miss out on this Mughlai extravaganza.

Cost: ₹900 for two people (approx)

Post-Lunch Dessert

Aflatoon at Usman Sulaiman Mithaiwala

While Shalimar has their own range of desserts, we suggest getting up (which is going to be difficult) and walking a few hundred metres to Usman Suleman Mithaiwala for some exquisite Aflatoon. Specially prepared from pure ingredients and the finest quality desi ghee, Usman Sulaiman has known around the nation for this traditional sweet, which is one of the most delectable amongst the varieties of sweets they have on offer. This mouth-watering treat is made of mawa, eggs, sugar, rawa, mix ghee and dry fruits, the flavours of each burst through with each bite into its many layers. Their other Mawa sweets too hard to resist are absolutely delicious, served in good portions and drizzled with a lot of nuts. It would be hard to get over this one.

Cost: ₹150 for two people (approx.)

Evening Snacks

Keema Samosa at Diamond Samosawala
Saifee Jubilee Road near Bohri Mohalla

Evenings at Mohammad Ali road can be hectic, chaotic and noisy and you particularly won’t enjoy stuffing your mouth with delicious shawarmas and samosas while you are being shoved and pushed. Thus head to the Bohri Mohalla at Saifee Jubilee Road which is not just quieter but has a variety of snacks that move beyond just kebabs and tikkas. Chances are you may be too full after your Chinese and Grill/Shalimar Extravaganza, thus we suggest making your first stop at the tiny store of Diamond Samosawala who have a variety of Samosas, their specialty being the Keema Samosas, crispy on the outside with a generous filling of minced mutton that softly crumbles in your mouth. Not too huge and heavy, you can try them for their amazing taste and pack some for your friends and family home. They also have some great Vegetarian variants. While you pop these little delights ask Saifudeen, the third generation owner at Diamond Samosa Wala, to enrich you with the eatery’s 65-year-old legacy.

Cost: ₹50 for two people (approx.)

Special Sharbat at Imam Sharbatwala
Khara Tank Road, Bohri Mohalla

Once you have popped in those Samosas, head to what is in this writer’s opinion the most iconic joint in the Bohri Mohalla, the Imam Sharbatwala. Chances are you’d be a little shook by the crowd you see around this hole-in-the-wall stall but wait till you cut the mob and see Yusuf Bhai churning out their special sharbat from a huge vessel and pouring it in a steel glass. The special Sharbat is the only kind they serve, which is a mix of sugary masala milk base, infused with freshly chopped watermelon, pineapple ice cream and crushed ice. It provides instant refreshment. Almost a century old legacy and a family guarded recipe discovered by Mr Imam and survived by generations, their sharbat is strangely addictive. So don’t hesitate to ask for a second serving; you’d realise almost everyone around you is doing the same.

Cost: Half glass for ₹15 and full glass for ₹25.

If you do not wish to walk all the way to Bohri Mohalla for snacks, there are great, but slightly chaotic options around Minara Masjid as well. A lane right in front of it opens up to a variety of stalls with a variety of kebabs, shawarmas, bheja fries etc. Try out the Chicken Roll and the Chicken Bheja Roti at La Raib fast food. Zee Chinese and Mahraba Fast Food too have some exciting delicacies.

Dinner

Shammi Kebabs, Chicken Hakimi, Mutton Nihari, Chicken Sanju Baba at Noor Mohammadi
Wazir Building, Bhendi Bazaar

Aah well, we don’t even know where to begin. With an uncharted painting by MF Hussian, to having a recipe specially created by Sanjay Dutt for them, the almost 100-year-old legacy of Noor Mohammadi is overwhelming, just like it’s old world charm and exquisite quality of food. “All our food is slow cooked in huge copper vessels, just like the Mughals cooked it, that is why it is more authentic,” Rasheed, the third generation owner points out, also stating that they only have cooks and not chefs. While here, you have to, have to order these four things: The Shammi Kebabs, the Chicken Hakimi, the Mutton Nihari and the Chicken Sanju Baba.

The Chicken Shami Kebabs, make for a perfect side order and are soft and crumble in your mouth as soon as you pop them in.
The Chicken Hakimi, a leg piece cooked to perfection and glazed with lime and chaat masala comes with an incredibly creamy gravy (that stole our hearts) made with a combination of butter and curd, adding a piquant flavour to the meat.

Their Mutton Nalli Nihari is quite tender and juicy, marinated well and perfectly glazed with spices. We suggest you choose this as its much more flavorful than its beef variant.

Chicken Sanju Baba is a special recipe created by their loyal customer, who happens to be none other than Sanjay Dutt. The thick gravy has a slightly sweet taste as it is infused with cinnamon and black cardamom. The pieces are soft and juicy.

Cost: ₹350 for two people.

Post Dinner Dessert

Khoya Burhanpur Jalebis at Tawakkal Sweets
Khara Tank Road, Bohri Mohalla

It is time to leave after that beautiful dinner but not before you make a quick pit stop on your way back for the last meal of the day, the dessert. Tawakkal Jalebi outside Bohri Mohalla has authentic Khoya Burhanpur Jalebi, which is puffed, soft, juicy and tastes a lot like Gulab Jamun, almost rivalling the ones made in its origin town in MP. Made freshly right in front of your eyes, you would not be able to settle on one, so pack some for days to come to savour some sweet memories of Mohammad Ali Road.

Cost: ₹400 for two people.

Ice Cream at Taj Ice Cream
Khara Tank Road, Bohri Mohalla

This one needs no introduction and is one of the most iconic ice cream parlours having stood the test of time in Mumbai. They, till date, hand-churn their ice cream, which makes it richer in flavour and creamier in texture. We recommend ordering their fruity variants for a more authentic experience, though their chocolate almond is pretty amazing too. Do not forget to read about their legacy on their walls while you drool on the ice cream.

Cost: ₹150 for two people.

While these are just some of the treasure of Mohammad Ali road, there are plenty more we’ve heard good things about that find a special mention here.

Special Mention: Chotte Kebabs at Hindustan Restaurants; Maratha Baji Biryani and Dilli ka Korma at Sahil Restaurant and Modern House for four varieties of phirnis, phool khaja, angoori rabdi, aflatoon, malpua.

Feature image photographed by Rashi Arora for Homegrown

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