Most metropolitan cities are characterised by their diversity; an ability to both harbour people from different sections of society and provide them a space to make a living by creating supplies for demands. And taking Mumbai's 20-million strong population, those demands extend themselves to 'just about anything.' It turns out, however, that there are many amongst us who go that extra mile to eat two meals a day. While some of them leave us in awe, the others amazed us with their ability to thrive, let alone exist within the context of how they earn their daily bread and butter. This isn't the first time we've become intrigued by the 'cult of the street' so to speak though. Many, many months ago, we met Niyati Upadhya, a young multi-media artist who was working on documenting some of the more anomalous professions she continued to uncover across the streets of the city. In fact, we even interviewed her during her fabulous exhibition on the bone-setters of Mumbai.
So before we somewhat insensitively chronicle some of the most unique jobs you can find in the city of Mumbai, many of whom pass by unnoticed in the familiarity of our own little bubbles, know that our intention is not to trivialize the struggles that so many of these men undergo to make ends meet, so much as it is an acknowledgment that their presence lends magic to the indelible spirit of our home city.
[Disclaimer: Many of these jobs are not solely exclusive to this city alone, and do exist in other spots across the country, but as long as they're regular features here we reserve the right to include them firmly in this bracket. And if you think of any we might have missed out on, let us know in the comments section below.]
I. Ear Cleaners
We’ve all seen them and perhaps the braver (and less hygienic) amongst us have even gone so far as to let these wanderers stick their buds in our ears. Truth be told, their profession is centuries old in our country and is still most prominent along Goa’s beaches and on Mumbai’s streets. Legend has it that if anybody wanted to know the latest gossip about the King or the court in Delhi, they either went to the barber or the ear-cleaner. Don’t believe us? Ask any ear cleaner in North India to trace his roots and he’ll take you back to medieval times, claiming that their forefathers worked in the courts of the Moghuls.
Where:
You can find them most frequently on the local trains, where the demand for them is higher, but they can be seen roaming the streets at random too.
Image Courtesy - framework.latimes
II. The Flute-sellers
They’ve walked beside you, perhaps playing a familiar tune, hundreds of flutes stacked neatly beside him or on his back. Even as they wander the streets, playing music from their hearts each day, the sight of the local flute-seller is so ingrained in our routine that most Mumbaikars miss them. Rarely spotted these days, the flutesellers played a melodious tune and contributed in whatever manner they could to spread music within the city. Sadly, many admit that it's not the music that keeps them at what they do so much as the opportunity to make a quick buck. Hardly an anomaly within these jaded city walls. Still, the melodies are often calm, soothing and serene – something that offers a moment’s peace in this fast, raucous cities for other dwellers if not the sellers themselves. Where:The streets of Mumbai. Higher density in tourist locales such as India Gate, Colaba Causeway etc.
Image Courtesy - Richard Tulloch
III. The Roadside Barbers
“Peepal ke pedh ke niche behta Nai” was one of the most common character in the yesteryear Bollywood movies. In reality too, these guys exist. Armed with a pair of scissors, a mirror and a blade, these barbers are crammed into the busiest corners of practically every street. Hoards of men enjoy their shaves, haircuts and more in full public viewing for anyone who cares to see. While hygiene goes for a complete toss, the shaves and haircuts are actually known to be traditionally cheaper and thus, are still quite popular in certain parts of the city for more stratas of society than you would imagine. Where: Under the Banyan Tree, most definitely. And pretty much everywhere else you can think of. Come to think of it, this might be the only odd profession to survive the impending obscurity.
Image Courtesy - blogs.voanews.com
IV. Train/Street Head massagers
How many times have you gone back home after work wondering, “God, I could really do with a massage right now?” Well, if you’re lucky enough, your wish might just come true. These head massagers board trains and offer a “champi” to travellers for a minimal amount. Although they are mostly found in the inter-state trains, they are known to occasionally pop up in an empty local train compartment with the offer of an invigorating, refreshing head massage. If not on the trains, a few of them can even be found on the streets – Carter Road in Bandra being a prime example. They might not have a permanent workstation, but they sure are vocal as hell about their services. Some might say it’s subtle – we’re not too sure. Either way, we're not complaining. Where: Trains/Beaches/Carter Road – Everyone loves a good Champi, and you never know when you're going to get one.
Image Courtesy - chapatiexpress.wordpress
V. Knife-sharpeners
If you’ve lived in the city of Mumbai long enough, you certainly know what we’re talking about. If you think about it, it’s actually a pretty brilliant invention. The men travel on a bicycle from place to place, society to society, and offer to sharpen people’s knives for a small amount using...the very same bicycle! The simple mode of transport even doubles up as a sharpening tool, which helps these people make an honest living.
Where: Most parts of Mumbai, especially societies where middle-class families dwell in which case, these do-gooders are likely to come knocking on your door on a regular basis.
Image Courtesy - eatanddust.com
VI. Maruti Omni Jadi-Booti sellers
Medicinal Herbs, anyone? This is probably the easiest, most convenient job on the list. The derriere of a Maruti Omni is filled with stacks of medicinal herbs – or Jadi Booti, as they call it locally. The man then goes on to play a recorded cassette, put a hat on his face, and goes to sleep. Out comes an ear-splitting shriek from the speakers, which is actually a man talking in detail about the medicines and its benefits. So essentially, the shop is portable, the goods are on display, the prices are on display, and the speakers do more than a fine job of making people aware of its presence. Safe to say this little job covers the four “Ps” of marketing and more. Where: There’s one outside the Bandra lake that seems content with its location. Others, however, make use of the mobility of their ‘store.’
Image courtesy - 3.bp.blogspot
VII. Cycle-tea sellers
These nocturnal superheroes have everything in their Batmobiles – tea, coffee, Boost, Bournvita, packets of chips and even a few smokes for a slightly higher price. Most of them also have day jobs, and offer these services to make a few extra bucks. Although they’re pretty harmless, they’re often an easy target for the policemen. This needs to stop, because, you know, the Cycle chaiwala is not the hero Bombay deserves, but the one it needs. Where: Juhu, Carter Road, and any other popular night spots of Mumbai.
Image Courtesy - 2.bp.blogspot
VIII. Bone-Setters
Meet Chacha Haji Qureshi, a.k.a the Bonesetter. He’s not a doctor, nor is he a chiropractor, but this 86-year-old man probably knows more about bones and ligaments than any other doctor in the city. Using handpicked herbs from the jungles of Uttar Pradesh, Chacha produces medicinal oils which he claims, with the help of his massage and bone-setting, produce results faster and better than the cast your doctor gives you. There are people who swear by him – some of which include Dilip Kumar, Mahesh Manjrekar and Shilpa Shetty. Perhaps the most intriguing fact here is that all his medicines are natural, his method ensures that the bones heal in a natural manner and his remedies are comparatively cheaper too. An art he learned from his forefathers, Chacha has now taught his kids and nephews everything there is to know about the art of bonesetting, which ensures that the tradition will go on for a few more years at least. And no, he’s not certified in any way either. Where:Kurla, Grant Road both have small communities of these bone-setters and they're rather secretive about their practice too.
Image Courtesy - Niyati Upadhya
IX. Dabba-Wallas
The thing about Mumbai is people in this city adapt to things so quickly that everything seemingly perplexing ends up being normal within a fortnight. That is exactly the case with Dabbawalas. As a Mumbaikar, it may seem pretty normal to us, but here’s how the world reacts to the 125-year-old industry that remains unique to this city alone: The American television company ABC has produced a documentary on Dabbawalas. Prince Charles desired to meet them, and so HE had to fit in with their schedule, since their timings did not offer any flexibility. He was so awed by them that he actually invited them to his wedding back in the UK. The tremendous publicity and popularity of the Dabbawalas has seen them give guest lectures in some of the biggest business schools in India. Articles about them have been written extensively in the New York Times and Forbes. For all their popularity and punctuality, all they’re paid is a meagre eight thousand rupees a month. The Dabbawalas provide close to 200,000 lunch boxes all over the city, but in the eyes of the average Mumbaikar, it is just another job. Where: The train stations of Mumbai are always the starting point!
Umage Courtesy - upload.wikimedia
X. Weight-Wallas
You’re walking around the streets of Powai, admiring the lake and rummaging your wallet to check if you have enough to splurge at Hiranandani and suddenly, someone comes up to and says, “Bhaisaab, weight check karoge?” Such is the case of the ever-elusive 'Weight Wallas.' Mostly found in Powai, this man walks around with a weighing scale, which allows you to check your weight in the middle of the road. He charges one rupee per person, and no, an Airtel video does not count as payment. Where:Now found mostly in Powai, they used to be found right through Bandra & Colaba a few years ago. Might want to get your weight checked randomly soon, while you still can.
Weightwalla
XI. Ratman I
You may have seen these people walk the streets with a huge chart that exemplifies the notoriety of the rats. Yes, these men sell rat poison. Dragging their single-wheeled chart across the streets of Mumbai, these men try and create awareness about rats and rat bites. They do their bit by selling rat poison, and making an honest living in the process.
Where:South Mumbai, mostly, but occasionally in the suburbs.
Image Courtesy - www.fotolibra.jpg
XII. Ratman II
This one definitely has a case to be called the most unique job on the list. The Ratman, almost like Batman, walks the streets of Mumbai at witching hour and tries to eliminate the city’s biggest pests. Employed by the BMC, this 30-member strong force trawls the streets of Mumbai in the dark with sticks and clubs rats to death. You might think this twelve-thousand a month job is easy to get, but not only is it tough it's also coveted. The men need to have at least a 10th standard passing certificate and need to pass a fitness test in order to land the job. They also need to kill at least 30 rats a night – 29 three days in a row will get you sacked. These men work tirelessly every night to keep the streets on Mumbai clean, without as much as a thank you from the people. Because Ratman isn’t the hero Mumbai deserves, but the one it needs.
Where:No fixed location. Just try the streets of Mumbai.
Image COurtesy - www.acidcow.com
XIII. The Whippers
Now while many of you might not consider this an actual job, you can’t deny it’s pretty darn sick. These braided men, seemingly high on cannabis, walk around shirtless with a long whip and flagellate themselves in the middle of the street. Why, you ask? For money, of course. Most people say this isn’t a “real” job but the other side argues that they provide entertainment which entitles them to ask the audience to pay as much as they like. Innovative begging or cheap entertainment? Your guess is as good as ours.
Where:No fixed location. Just try the streets of Mumbai.
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XIV. The Lotterywala
The blazing heat of Mumbai spares nobody, which is exactly what makes this job even more commendable. These men, armed with nothing but a plastic bag, scurry around the signals of Mumbai selling Lottery tickets and coupons. Yeah, we know what you’re thinking, “Are the lottery tickets, like, even legit?” Well, it certainly seems so, although one can never be too sure. We’re pretty sure counterfeits are in circulation, but that doesn’t demean the real efforts of the honest ones. Where:The signals in most parts of the city, especially Lamington Road.
Image Courtesy - www.finelychopped.net
XV. The Raddiwala/Bhangaarwala
Now while his may sound pretty normal to us because we’re so used to them, does not mean they are not unique! Could you imagine selling stacks of paper for a living? It costs 50 paisa a kilo! Or how about scraps, old cabinets, broken electronic machines, and other similar junk? These people are closet environmentalists – they take the junk we would have otherwise randomly discarded and make sure they get recycled. Yes, you may argue they do it for the money and not for the environment per se, but as long as the mission is accomplished and nobody is harmed, do you really care about the method or the reason?
Where:Sprawled across the city, and quite possibly, outside your window. While Raddiwalas have shops, Bhangaarwalas just walk from society to society.
Image Courtesy - www.4bp.blogspot.com
XVI. The Death Shops
I don’t say this very often, but if my editor let me (Editor's note--I can't imagine why I would have stopped him) I’d write a whole damn article on these people. Even still, they’re just as interesting even as a sub-topic. Stationed close to most big hospitals, these shops specialise in death – and even have packages for the same. These packages depend upon the deceased’s religion. Be it white sheets with garlands or coffins or satin green sheets with religious scriptures on them, they have it all. To top it all, they also have an advance booking system – in case the situation for your family member looks bad, that is. Quite macabre, yet it is morbidly fascinating at the same time. Brilliant, we say. Where: In the vicinity of most hospitals.
Image COurtesy - manchestereveningnews.co
XVII. The Corn Removers
And finally, we have these foot fetishists of sorts? Armed with nothing but a little signboard, creatively designed with a painted foot with holes poked through it usually, titled ‘corn specialist,’ they earn their daily bread and butter by, well, popping/ removing those disgusting calluses on your feet. They have enough tools and ointments (mostly basic things like dettol) on their low tables to convince you that they belong in an operation room, but their skill is unmatched. Don’t ask us how we know that.
Where:Byculla and Andheri East largely.
Image Courtesy - Niyati Upadhya (niyatiupadhya.wordpress) This photographer has actually worked on documenting a number of unusual professions through her multi-meida art project, 'Cult Of The Street.'
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