Decolonizing Narratives: 4 Books That Rescue Indian Travel Writing From Stereotypes

Cascading down from 16th century legends recorded in Kerala māhātmya to millennial bloggers on solo Royal Enfield explorations, Indian travel writing has long been stricken by aesthetics of the marvellous. If spice laden bazaars, cows moseying among heaps of garbage and the psychedelia of our metropolitan traffic have been fixities for white cis-male authors; homegrown chroniclers thwarting the colonial gaze, inadvertently err on the side of airbrushed vignettes or 'lifestyle porn'. Tossing aside the laundry list of editor's choice destinations, a camarilla of original thinkers has redeemed this languishing genre, infusing it with serendipity and the unexpected solicitude of strangers you meet on the road.

I. Is That Even a Country, Sir! by Anila Yadav

Unfurling across North Eastern badlands, the searing aftermath of political corruption and underground insurgency that followed Bihari-Assamese ethnic clashes in 2000 might seem like an unlikely point of departure for a travelogue at first glance, however journalist Anila Yadav succeeded in documenting memorable experiences with kaleidoscopic detailing that never borders on facetiousness. From sharing political discourse with a boatman on the Brahmaputra river about the massacres of Hindi-speakers to analysing geo-political repercussions of cow meat, Is That Even a Country, Sir! makes for a compassionate and action-packed page turner.

You can purchase it here.

II. Butter Chicken In Ludhiana by Pankaj Mishra

Emphasising on the influence of Western pop culture and fast-food chains in our small towns, Butter Chicken In Ludhiana reconnoitres a swiftly evolving landscape, the random pitstops along national highways assuming a relevance heretofore unexplored. Whether it is Mr. Sharma's daughter frothing at the mouth out of consternation that a relative had the gall to use her soap or young men in Muzaffarnagar who hero-worship the cops murdering Muslims in cold blood, the communal mindsets and hypocritical morality that pervades our burgeoning middle class is recorded here with spine-chilling albeit unselfconscious perspicacity.

You can buy this book here.

III. The Epic City by Kushanava Choudhury

As a son of Indian immigrants who grew up in the United States, Choudhury returns to Kolkata to explore his roots and connect with the city's soul. Through his keen observations and immersive storytelling, he paints a compelling portrait of Kolkata's streets, neighbourhoods and inhabitants. The book serves as a bridge between past and present, offering a nuanced understanding of the city's resilience and the challenges it faces. Dabbling in the poetry of mosquitoes, fish hawkers and Romano-Mughal architecture, The Epic City emerges as a love letter to an urban jungle that throbs with the unyielding spirit of its people.

You can order your own copy here.

IV. Around India In 80 Trains by Monisha Rajesh

Spanning the bustling platforms of major cities and remote corners, each train journey in Around India In 80 Trains delves into the social fabric and idiosyncrasies that make India a captivating mosaic of contrasts. The rhythmic clatter of trains echoes the pulse of a nation in constant motion, revealing the stories of everyday lives that unfold within the steel confines of these rolling carriages. From the paan-stained teeth of tea sellers to families sharing their chapatis with her at mealtime, Rajesh's ability to weave historical context, personal anecdotes and contemporary observations into a cohesive narrative has been widely commended.

You can find this book here.

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