A Complete Guide To Durga Pujo 2024 In Kolkata: What To See, Where To Eat, What To Do & More

If you are fortunate enough to find yourself in Kolkata during Durga Pujo, you're in for the time of your life. A puzzle of ephemeral public art installations, massive pandals, and dazzling lights at every corner, Kolkata during Durga Pujo is an experience unlike any other. So tighten your shoelaces, brace for impact, and jump headlong into the dizzying ride that is pandal-hopping in Kolkata. You simply have to!

Part pub crawl, part carnival, and part burning man (without the burning and the Black Rock Desert, of course), pandal-hopping is what we Bengalis call travelling from one end of Kolkata to the other to see as many Durga Pujo pandals as we can within a single night. Usually, this is a group activity. Usually, it starts around 6 in the evening. Usually, it lasts until 6 a.m. the next morning. Sounds fun? Sounds challenging? Sounds like something you want to do but don't know how?

Don't worry. I've got your back. As Homegrown's resident Bengali and all things Durga Pujo aficionado, this is your guide to Kolkata during Durga Pujo:

But First Things First:

1. Finding transportation during Durga Pujo in Kolkata — especially at night — is near impossible. You're going to cover a lot, if not most, of the pandals on your pandal-hopping list on foot. Wear comfortable shoes. I recommend chunky sneakers or your best pair of running shoes for pandal-hopping!

2. You'll find drinking water almost everywhere, but don't count on it. Carry your own water bottle. It doesn't have to be a lot, but as long as it's enough to quench your thirst in a jiffy, it should be fine. I recommend a 500 ml - 750 ml bottle of water for every person in your group.

3. Make sure your phone is fully charged. Carry a power bank if possible. If you are like me, you will use your phone to take photographs and find your way through the maze-like streets and labyrinthine alleys of Kolkata during the night. You will need every last trickle of electricity at your disposal.

4. Keep enough cash in small notes. Although most shops, restaurants, and auto-rickshaws/taxi-cabs now accept online payments via UPI, keep enough cash with you in case online payments don't work.

5. Kolkata Police runs special helplines for emergencies during Durga Pujo. Make sure you have this number saved on your phone or write it down on a piece of paper and keep it with you. This year, the helpline number is 9163737373. It will be open from 4 pm to 4 am, October 8 to October 12.

Got all that? Let's go!

Head North

Begin your pandal-hopping adventure in North Kolkata in the early evening. These older neighbourhoods — known as 'para' in Bengali — are home to some of the longest-running Durga Pujas in the city. However, since North and Central Kolkata represent some of the oldest boroughs and neighbourhoods of the city, the roads and alleys in these parts tend to be narrower and more chaotic. You do not want to be caught up here once night falls unless you are a local and know the neighbourhoods like the back of your palm. Start here in the evening when there is still some colour in the sky, and make your way towards the South as the night progresses.

Here are five North Kolkata Durga Pujas that are worth visiting this year:

Dum Dum Park Tarun Dal Durga Puja

Dum Dum Park Tarun Dal's Durga Puja is popular for their interesting themed pandals that celebrate South Asian history and culture. This year, their Muslin-themed pandal pays homage to Bengal's rich heritage of handloom and textile traditions.

How to get there: Dum Dum Park Tarun Dal Durga Puja

Tala Prottoy Durga Puja

Now in its 99th year, the theme of this popular Durga Puja in 2024 is "Biheen", or "the void". Less traditional pandal and more site-specific large-scale land art installation, this year's Tala Prottoy Durga Puja pandal — designed by artist Susanta Paul — represents the artist's journey towards that ‘void’, where the Goddess is only a formless sense of existence.

How to get there: Tala Prottoy Durga Puja

Have Some 'Phoochka' — The Smarter Cousin Of The Panipuri

Phoochka — or Kolkata-style panipuri — is a cornerstone of Kolkata's street food culture. A delicious mix of crunchy, flaky, deep-fried semolina dumplings, savoury boiled potato and chickpea filling, and tangy tamarind water, you simply must have a phoochka — or twenty — while pandal-hopping. You'll find temporary phoochka stalls outside most pandals.

Sovabazar Rajbari-r Durga Puja

One of Kolkata's oldest family Durga Pujas, it is also one of the most opulent Bonedi Bari-r Pujo in Kolkata. To reach Sovabazar Rajbari from Tala Prottoy, take the Metro from Belgachia to Sovabazar, then walk down Sri Aurobindo Sarani towards Grey Street and take the left turn at Raja Kali Krishna Lane. The Sovabazar Rajbari sits right at the crossing of Raja Kali Krishna Lane and Raja Naba Krishna Street.

How to get there: Sovabazar Rajbari

Snack At Lakshmi Narayan Shaw & Sons

Kolkata is home to many places that connect its past to the present. In Sovabazar-Sutanuti — one of three settlements that merged to form modern Kolkata in the 17th century — is where you will find Lakshmi Narayan Shaw And Sons. This is a snack shop famous for its savoury croquettes, fritters, and cutlets called telebhaja (translates to ‘fried in oil’). Take a short break here and try the 'aam-er chop' (raw mango fritters) and 'soybean-er chop' (soybean fritters) with beet salad.

How to get there: Lakshmi Narayan Shaw & Sons

Hatibagan Nabin Pally Durga Puja

Hatibagan Nabin Pally is a popular public Durga Puja in North Kolkata. Last year, this Durga Puja turned people's heads with its 'Abol Tabol'-themed pandal inspired by the absurdist writing of Sukumar Ray, an icon of Bengali literature. This year they are back with another interesting themed pandal that pays homage to Bengal's beloved theatre culture.

How to get there: Hatibagan Nabin Pally Durga Puja

Telenga Bagan Sarbojanin Durga Puja

From Hatibagan Nabin Pally, take an auto-rickshaw or walk to the Telenga Bagan Sarbojanin Durga Puja in Ultodanga. This year, Telenga Bagan Sarbojanin's themed pandal is inspired by Communist poet Sukanta Bhattacharya's poem "Prithibi godyomoy" (This Prosaic World) about hunger and poverty. Designed by artist Parimal Paul, the pandal confronts the prevalent social ills of food waste and world hunger.

How to get there: Telenga Bagan Sarbojanin Durgotsav

Have Dinner At 6, Ballygunge Place

Take a taxi from Telenga Bagan to Ballygunge and have dinner at 6, Ballygunge Place — one of Kolkata's best restaurants to experience authentic traditional Bengali cuisine. Although it might be a little difficult to find a table here during the Pujo rush, trust me, the wait will be worth it. If you are into seafood, try the 'Dab-Chingri' — prawns cooked and served inside a tender coconut. If not, there's plenty else to choose from on their menu — from the delicious Hilsa to the Bengali classic Kosha Mangsho.

How to get there: 6, Ballygunge Place

Hangout at Maddox Square Durga Puja

A departure from the themed pandals of North Kolkata, the traditional unthemed Maddox Square Durga Puja is popular for its games, cultural events, and overall Pujo vibe. Maddox Square is where we hang out to take a break from pandal-hopping, rendezvous with different friend groups, take part in Pujo-themed quizzes and game shows, and hope to run into our favourite actors, singers, artists, writers, and poets... or to meet someone new. After all, have you even experienced Pujo if you haven't experienced the thrill and heartbreak of chatting up an attractive, well-dressed stranger at Maddox Square knowing very well that you may never see them again?

How to get there: Maddox Square Durga Puja

Head South

After hanging out and refreshing yourself with some much needed rest at Maddox Square, it's time to head South. Modern, luxurious, and art deco, South Kolkata is home to the whos-who of Kolkata's newer, more exciting Durga Pujas. Here are the South Kolkata Pujas you must visit in 2024:

Tridhara Sammilani Durga Puja

Right across Hazra Road from Maddox Square, the Tridhara Sammilani Durga Puja is turning 78-years-old this year. The theme of their pandal this year is 'angan' or 'courtyard'. Made with colourful odhnis, the pandal takes inspiration from the inner courtyards of old Kolkata houses.

How to get there: Tridhara Sammilani Durga Puja

Singhi Park Sarbojanin

A short walk away from Tridhara Sammilani, Singhi Park Sarbojanin in Gariahat is another popular South Kolkata Durga Puja. This year, Singhi Park's Sat Mahala themed pandal designed by Sudipta Maity takes inspiration from the seven-storied architecture of old, opulent Bengali mansions. The entire structure is made from wicker and rattan.

How to get there: Singhi Park Sarbojanin Durga Puja

Mudiali Club Durga Puja

The 90-year-old Durga Puja at Mudiali Club has been running since 1935. This year, their theme is 'Tri-Matrik' or 'three-dimensional'. The pandal is conceptualised and designed by artist Biman Saha.

How to get there: Mudiali Club Durga Puja

Chetla Agrani Club Durga Puja

Established in 1958, this popular New Alipore Durga puja is led by Kolkata Mayor Firhad Hakim himself. The Chetla Agrani Club is known for using their Durga Puja pandal as a platform to raise public awareness about contemporary social issues. This year, the club's pandal confronts the contentious subject of water pollution in the Ganges river.

How to get there: Chetla Agrani Club Durga Puja

Suruchi Sangha Durga Puja

The theme of Suruchi Sangha's Durga Puja pandal this year is 'purano shei diner kotha' or 'tales of old times'. The pandal — designed by Gauranga Quila — takes inspiration from the passage of time and pays homage to iconic figures and events from India's long and many-layered history.

How to get there: Suruchi Sangha Durga Puja

Some Last Words

This is, by no means, an exhaustive guide. Durga Pujo in Kolkata is a city-wide event, and it's near impossible to include all that Kolkata has to offer in a single Pujo guide. But I hope that this guide will make navigating the delightful chaos that is Durga Pujo in Kolkata a little easier. You'll find Kolkata Police's official Puja Guide below to make your own pandal-hopping plans. What are you waiting for? Go out. Hop some pandals. Try new food. Have fun. It's Pujo, after all.

If you enjoyed reading this, here's more from Homegrown:

Beyond Tradition: The Cultural Evolution Of Durga Puja In Modern-Era Kolkata

How Generations Of Kumartuli's Artisans Have Crafted A Culture Of Devotion For Durga Puja

Summoning Durga Through Photos Of Indian Widows: An Interview With Sharmistha Dutta