Burma Bazaar Is A Living, Breathing Memoir Of Chennai's Tamil-Burmese Community

I’ve spent countless bike rides with my father through the streets of Chennai, particularly in markets like Pondy Bazaar and Burma Bazaar. I’ve had friends plan visits to North Madras to enjoy Atho. Despite knowing that these names or foods are not particularly Tamil in nature, I’ve never questioned the existence of a Burma Bazaar or traditionally Burmese street food in a state far from from its origins. When we live amongst a culture for long enough, it becomes our own, and there is beauty in that acceptance of diversity. 

The Burmese connection in Chennai dates back to the 1960s. The Tamil Chola Empire had trade relations with the kingdoms of Burma during the 3rd century CE. However, Tamil migration to Burma began during the British colonial era, driven by the pursuit of labour and work. During the 1940s, Tamilians held significant influence in Burmese civil society, taking on roles in administration, while the Chettiar community established themselves as businessmen and moneylenders in Rangoon (now Yangon). The Tamils in Burma thrived as traders and rice cultivators until a miltary coup was instigated by General Ne Win in 1962. While Tamil customs were previously commonplace in the state, the political turmoil led to the closure of all Tamil schools, cinema halls, temples, and so forth, effectively forcing an evacuation. 

While some Tamilians found their home in Manipur, others sailed into the Bay of Bengal and reached the port of Madras. Today, along the Beach Road in Chennai, pirated CDs, electronics, imported perfumes, chocolates, and toys are a common sight at Burma Bazaar. The market began as a livelihood for the Tamil population fleeing Burma, selling whatever goods they could to make money.. 

What started as a few people laying down towels and goods to hawk, soon became one of the largest counterfeit and smuggled goods markets in Chennai. The bazaar is managed by the 'Burma Tamizhar Marumalarchi Sangam', an association established in 1966 to safeguard the interests of the traders. In 1969, the Tamil Nadu Government officially recognised Burma Bazaar as a market, and set aside land for the community. The market also led to the emergence of pushcarts and roadside stalls, set up by the Burmese-Tamil community, selling Indo-Burmese dishes. Chennai’s Second Line Beach Road is now home to stalls serving a variety of Indo-Burmese cuisine. You haven’t truly experienced Chennai if you haven’t tried Atho. Atho is a local twist on the Burmese Khauk Swe Thoke. It’s a Burmese noodle salad, derived from the Burmese word ‘Athok’ or ‘Thoke’, meaning ‘salad’. Made with hand-cut noodles, cabbage, an array of spices, and sauces, Atho has become a beloved multicultural staple, alongside other dishes like Egg Bejo (stuffed, boiled eggs). 

According to state government records, 144,445 Burmese repatriates have been resettled in Tamil Nadu since 1964. What began as a means of survival today stands as one of the largest markets in Chennai; the mark of a community and the ties that bind together its past and present.

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