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Bringing local eastern aesthetics to everyday objects and apparel, 145 East is a Kolkata-based design collective that is blending Bengal's textile and cultural heritage with contemporary fashion. The brand is known for their garments inspired by the 'gamcha', a course-cotton fabric used as a towel that can be found in a number of households in South Asia. 145 East has built quite a community through their story-based marketing and promotion that taps into what it means to be a Bengali.
Drawing upon narratives that define the Bengali socio-cultural landscape, 145 East's Instagram is filled with endearing skits and stories that are sure to remind your of your sweet Bengali friend. (I'm sure everybody can think of one).
We asked 145 East to help us see their home city through their eyes. In this Homegrown guide to Kolkata, we've collaborated with the brand to give you an insider's guide to the best stays, food joints, local spots and must-see places that capture the essense of Kolkata. Check it out below:
The Rajbari Bawali
If the demure romance of Lootera was your Roman empire The Rajbari Bawali is for you. This heritage property-turned boutique hotel, built on three acres of land, including 2 natural water bodies, belonged to the Bawali Mondal family that had land grants going back to the time of Akbar. Their Instagram bio calls the place "...a luxurious escapade into the 300 year-old life of the Zamindars; a new-world experience of quintessential Bengal." With pond-view suites and bungalows, the hotel alone is a site of exploration where you can spend your time discovering centuries-old architecture and the vintage traditions of Zamindar-living.
The Elgin Fairlawn Hotel
This colonial-era charmer, housed in a 1783 building, is brimming with memorabilia, family stories, and antique treasures. The heritage hotel stands at the junction of Madge Lane and Sudder Street, where you're just a stone's throw from the city's New Market, a century-old shopping hub, and iconic landmarks like the Indian Museum and Victoria Memorial. Park Street, Kolkata's nightlife spot, is also a short stroll away, making the Elgin Fairlawn the perfect home base for your Kolkata adventure.
Calcutta Bungalow
Hidden in a nondescript alley, this restored bungalow transports you to a bygone era of Kolkata. The Corinthian columns and exposed brick walls and intricate ironwork are reminiscent of European-Bengali townhouses. Each room in the Calcutta Bungalow is named after North Calcutta's neighborhoods, showcasing the area's unique character like the 'pata' painter's Patuapara, the tailor's Dorjipara, or the folk theater artist's Jatrapara. Whether its the on-site curio shop that houses vintage treasures like antique typewriters and patachitra' or the tranquil courtyard, adorned with terracotta pots and frangipani trees, Calcutta Bungalow feels like it's straight out of a retro Bengali arthouse film.
Lal Bari
Lal Bari, a stunning red bungalow that's over a century old, is a little time capsule in South Kolkata. Once home to the former Chief Minister, Siddhartha Shankar Ray, this palatial residence has welcomed renowned figures like Mahatma Gandhi and Ravi Shankar. This was also where a scene from Satyajit Ray's delicate masterpiece about forbidden love, 'Charulata', was shot. Its ornate chambers filled with antique furnishings, rare books, and stunning artwork reflect Bengal's rich history. At Lal Bari you can relax in the luxurious living room crafted from Burma teak, stroll through the exquisite, lush green lawn or indulge in authentic Bengali cuisine, from flavourful curries to sweet treats.
Have a UP style breakfast at Maharani, an age-old eatery serving Aloo Puri, Jalebi, Malpua and tea or head on to Coffee House at College Street that's been here since 1876 and is known to be a hang-out spot for intellectuals and students. To taste the original Kathi rolls of Kolkata, Nizaam Eatery dating back to 1937 is your spot. For light evening snacks, the Kalibari Bepul Khirkiwala & Chandu Bhelwala's chaat & bhel near Lake Kali Bari are sure to leave your taste buds with an explosion of flavours. And while your're in the city, do not forget to try Kolkata's version of pani-puri, commonly known as the 'puchka'. 145 East tells us the puchka man at Jodhpur Park is one of the best. Grab a quick bite at Fillers, Kolkata's go-to drive in cafe. If you're craving some Punjabi street food, the better chicken and tandoori chicken tikka at Sharma Dhaba is to die for; especially with their rich & thick lassi to wash it down with.
For a proper meal, Trincas restaurant & bar is an iconic spot in the city that offers a multi cuisine menu. Broadway Hotel will give you the finest draught beers, artisanal cocktails and British cuisine accompanied by some great live music. For Chinese, try the Blue Cooler, Prawn Chip, Duck Roast, Crispy Chilli Pork, Fry Prawns at Golden Joy. For Mughlai, head on to Tripti, one of the oldest bars in Kolkata. Go international with Sonamoo which serves Korean classics, like bibimbap, gujeolpan and some authentic kimchi.
To get a taste of Bengal's history head to a Pice hotel where home-style Bengali meals were served to the public in the colonial era, for one-fourth of an anna, that is 1/16 of a rupee, if you can believe it. Parbati is one of the best Pice hotels in the city. Padma Parer Rannaghar will give you authentic East Bengali cuisine with dishes like Mochar Ghonto (curried banana blossom) Phulkopir Dalna (a cauliflower & potato dish) and Khejur Amsotto Chutney (a sweet & tangy tomato chutney with dates and mango pulp candy). For Kolkata-style biryani, check out Dada Boudi in Barrackpore.
There's no place that'll take care of your sweet tooth than the land of desserts itself. The 137-year-old, fourth generation, Ballaram Mullick Sweet shop is known for reviving old Bengali recipes like Patishapta Pitha but you can also try their bakes Rossogollas while you’re there. Bhim Chandra Nag is also one of the oldest sweet shops in Kolkata, established in 1826. They created the Ledikeni in honour of Lany Canning, and were also a pioneer in inventing variants of Sandesh.
For a relaxing, slow day, go to Maidan, a massive green space spanning acres in the middle of the city with trails with riverside picnic spots and sporting venues like the iconic Ede Gardens. The area also has a cricket ground, golf courses, and a polo club. Do some bird-watching at the Rabindra Sarovar lake and garden that's home to varied migratory birds from Siberia and Russia or catch the sunset at Jodhpur Park. Get your favourite plants from The Agri-Horticultural Society in Alipore that encompasses a flower garden, greenhouses, a research laboratory, and a library.
For something more exciting, strap on your boots and head to the New Market also called SS Hogg Market, Kolkata's first municipal market set up in 1874, where over 2000 shops sell everything from jewellery, stationery, handicrafts and textiles to electronic, food, flowers, groceries, spices & more. Kamartuli is the traditional potters' quarter in North Kolkata where you can witness artisans sculpt and paint elaborate idols of gods and goddesses. The place is particularly vibrant during Durga Pooja. Your Kolkata trip would also be incomplete without a visit to Mullick Ghat, the largest flower market in Asia.
Take your friends or family to the 'Disneyland of West Bengal' aka Nicco Park beat the heat and get your adrenaline pumping on a range of water slides and roller coasters. Turn it up and dive into the city's night life at Park Street with clubs like The Myx, Roxy, Nocturne. Who's got time to sleep in the City of Joy?
We'd be kidding ourselves if we didn't admit Kolkata to be the art and culture capital of India. From being the birthplace of modern Indian literature to leading visual art movements and theatre traditions, the Bengali intellectual-artist stereotype is true in the best way. I mean, this is the home of Rabindranath Tagore and Satyajit Ray. Need I say more?
No amount of time would be enough to cover the absolute motherlode of history, heritage and culture the city offers. But we've shortlisted a few places if you're ready for the quest of your life:
The Indian Museum
The Birla Planetarium
Birla Industrial and Technological Museum (BITM)
Kali Temple
Kala Mandir
Minerva Theatre
Nandan
Experimenter Art Gallery
Birla Academy Of Art and Culture
Jorasonkho Thakurbari
Alipore Jail
Victoria Memorial Museum
Rail Museum
Belur Math
Indian Botanical Gardens
Russell Exchange Auction House
