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Fried minnows the size of your fingernails, a fish head as big your own and a bottle of frothy ‘kallu’ – I could retire at this kind of toddy shop. Mullapanthal, which roughly translates to Jasmine Shed, kicks negative stereotypes about toddy shops to the curb with their amazing ‘nadan’ food and atmosphere. This is not some squalid shack on the outskirts of a one-horse village, serving up homemade hooch that can knock you out faster than Muhammad Ali.
The bastion of nadan and kallushap food culture is a forty-minute drive from Fort Kochi, however, many of their customers travel even further distances for a glass of coconut ‘white lightning’ and a barroom feast. Yet, no matter how spectacular the food is, Mullapanthal is a place for toddy after all and doesn’t spruce up for anyone.
Though it does differ from more atypical toddy shops in other ways. First of all, the large, down to earth premises is the first one I’ve ever seen with private rooms. That being said, toddy shops are all about the communal vibe, so I wouldn’t suggest a private room unless you’re up to something nefarious. I happily shared my table with a couple of guys from Ernakulam, which was a blessing as they had far more patience with my questions about the menu than our portly waiter did.
The other surprise was the presence of several women, all seemingly have a jolly old time. I personally thought to see a woman relax at a government-run saloon was like spotting a shooting star, only rarer; but it turns out that is more the case for ‘wine shops’ as opposed to toddy joints. Other popular toddy restaurants just outside of the Ernakulam area, such as Nettoor Toddy Shop and Mapranam Toddy Shop, apparently also have regular female patrons, according to my waiter.
But where Mullapanthal really stands out is in the kitchen. Cooks in sweat-stained banyans hustle in and out, towing gigantic, brass urlis of various fish curries across the dining room. The ebb and flow of massive vats, each wafting an alluring scent almost seems like a purposeful way of increasing their patron’s appetites.
The first thing you order should be a kallu shap classic, Meen Thala Curry. This dish is a legend among Toddy Shop-style meals, and one taste is all you need to know why. The enormous King Fish (Yellowtail amberjack) head wades in a pool of spicy red curry, full of red chilis, coconut milk, and a formidably tangy flavour.
I have no qualms eating the fish head curry as is, however, if you don’t want to hurt your waiter’s feelings, a side of tapioca mash is in order. The tapioca comes particularly handy when you come to the dregs of the red curry, as the starchy mash was born to sop up the spicy gravy.
The most expensive food item at the joint is the Karimeen pollichathu for INR 350. This is Pearl Spot fish marinated in spices, which is then tied up in a banana leaf and steamed. Seeing buzzed uncles unwrap their banana leaves is almost like looking at the faces of children on Christmas morning, barring the glass of booze in their hand.
Mullupanthal’s cooks also add cashews to the marinade, which works wonderfully with this Malayali delicacy.
However, I found the best accompaniment to an effervescent mug of toddy wasn’t one of these more mainstream mallu treats. What I needed was some Nethili fry, otherwise referred to as Anchovy fry or Podimeen fry. The simple, salty dish made up of young Anchovies deep fried and tossed in a handful of oily curry leaves paired perfectly with the sweet and sour funkiness of the toddy.
Mullapanthal does have plenty of other dishes that aren’t focused in the realm of seafood, such as the Duck Curry which is also worth a try. Nevertheless, if you go to Mullapanthal and fail to order a fish dish, your waiter may tighten his lungi around his paunch and give you a swift kick in the keister.
Click here for map directions to Mullanpanthal.
Feature image courtesy of Tasty Spots
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