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Having spent the vast majority of my life in the folds of the big bad city, it was only when I moved to Goa that I realised how far I had shied away from the true art of eating. Something as basic and fundamental as being able to grow my own food and feed myself, or know where my food came from, was a concept absolutely alien to me. Suffice to say I was careless in the way I ate. I showed no consideration for what was in season. I walked past myriad plants that could have sustained me as food without so much as a glance; I didn’t even care enough to know their names.
Today, I work on a farm that has me observing the bloom of every bud, the fruiting of every flower, all the tells of an Indian summer. It’s also a life that has me cooking more - something that requires an innate understanding of seasons, and the changes that they bring. In a quest to find the next recipe to add to my repertoire of culinary experiments, I studied every word of Five Morsels of Love, a book safeguarding the culinary heritage of Andhra Pradesh. The flutter of pages stopped as soon as I landed on a recipe for a tangy peanut stew. The author, Archana Pidathala says, “The thought of pachchi pullusu fills my mind with memories of countless summer afternoons spent with my grandmother over a simple meal of finger millet porridge and this stew.” What was the aroma of summer in kitchens across the country, I wondered? Were there as many summer recipes as there were Indian Grandmothers? And thus began my search for recipes across different regions of the country that epitomizes the flavours, textures and essence of the quintessential Indian Summer.
Scroll on to make them part of your own kitchen musings and perhaps you’ll find something you can pass down yourself.
I. A Nutty, Tangy ‘Pachchi Pulusu’ from Andhra Pradesh
Given the seething heat of summers in Andhra, one can only expect that the usual spice and heat of Andhra cuisine takes a backseat during this time. In the book Five Morsels of Love, Archana writes that the tangy peanut stew or Pachchi Pulusu that comes together in about 10 minutes, aids digestions and has an immense cooling effect on the body. “The nuttiness of the peanuts, the muted bitterness of freshly ground sesame seeds, the tanginess of the tamarind and a touch of sweetness from the jaggery come together artfully to create this classic,.” is how she describes it best.
Recipe:
Tempering
Dry roast the peanuts in a pan over medium heat for 4-5 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent the peanuts from burning. Once completely cool, gently rub the roasted peanuts between your palms to remove the skins.
Grind the skinned peanuts and sesame seeds, along with the coriander, turmeric and red chilli powders and ½ cup of water in a mixer/food processor.
Mash the tamarind by hand, and sieve the liquid into a bowl. Squeeze the tamarind to extract as much of the liquid pulp as possible. To this extract, add 2 cups of water, the ground peanut paste, powdered jaggery and salt; mix well. Add the onions and green chillies and stir well.
Heat the oil in a deep, heavy bottomed pan over high heat until very hot. Add the mustard seeds. When they splutter, add the split black gram, split Bengal gtam, cumin seeds, dried red chillies and curry leaves. When the split black gram turns golden (this should only take a few seconds), add the peanut-tamarind mixture, cover and cook for 2-3 minutes or until it begins to boil. Serve with finger millet porridge or hot, steamed rice.
II. A Mouth-Watering, Flavour-Packed Fish Soup (AKA ‘Outenga Dhekia Haak’) from Assam
Assamese cuisine is one that has only recently come into the glory it truly deserves as far as regional cuisine in India goes. A variety of ingredients used in this cuisine remain hidden to the nation’s palate at large. Gitika Saikia, a home chef heralding Assamese cuisine in Mumbai says that in the summer, people eat more boiled food - primarily cutting out anything fried from the diet. During this season, the food tends to be very light but full of flavour. And pPork, a staple through the year, is sidelined during this time.
The summers in Assam call for one it’s most popular dishes from across the state. It is a soup dish made of Fiddlehead fern, Elephant apple and Fish, known as Outenga Dhekia Haak’or Jool. It’s popularity is so ingrained, the saying goes “Outenga Dhekia Haak, Jibhaar Pani Pori Thaak” meaning, the dish will keep salivating for the ones who remain watching. The difference in how this dish is cooked across the state comes down to the fish that is used. Typically, small fish collectively known as Dori Kona are used, usually by people who have access to pond fish. Those who don’t have access use bigger fish like Rohu or Katla.
Recipe
This recipe calls for the elephant apple and fern to be placed in a pot with a little salt and water and brought to a boil. When you see the water bubbling, add crushed garlic and the fish. Cook for about 7 minutes, and add Assamese coriander. The dish is to be served with hot, steamed rice.
[Note to readers: The right ingredients may be hard to find in local markets, depending on where you live. Your best bet is to identify small stores that stock North Eastern produce near you.]
III. A Sour & Delightful ‘Khatte Baingan’ from Kashmir
This recipe is a traditional one from a family of the Kashmiri Pandit community, a small population of people from the Kashmir Valley. Amit Wanchoo, and his mother Rajni Wanchoo, told me that dish of choice in the summertime was Khatte Baingan, or Chyok Vaangun in Kashmiri. As the story goes, Kashmiri Pandits were compared to Vaangun ( Brinjal) in Kashmir, Amit tells us. Just as bringal was used in almost every dish and was paired with every vegetable, the Kashmiri Pandits were recognised to interact with all communities of people in Kashmir. Khatte Baingan, the dish that represents this region, is made with no other vegetable - it is exclusively brinjal and this highlights the unique culture and identity of this one small community. The dish is seasonal, in that Kashmiri baingans are not present in any other season. The sourness of some of the ingredients used tend to cause throat and chest congestion in the winter, lending to it’s popularity in the summer.
Recipe courtesy Amit’s Mother, Rajni Wanchoo
Ingredients:
How To Prepare
IV. Green Mango Fish Curry from Kerala
No Indian summer is complete without considering its greatest delight - the mango. It’s simple seasonality is what makes this a prime ingredient to work with. Neha Sumitran, a food writer and editor, got her grandmother to sit down and stop giggling long enough to share this recipe. Rest assured, this was no easy task. Be sure, then, that the recipe is from a palate that has only developed in the way that is unique to only grandmothers.
The recipe uses green mangoes, coconut and is ideal for small fish like Mandeli, silver fish and prawns. “I’m particularly fond of recipes that use fish other than pomfret and seer—more diversity, more flavour I say—and this one hit the spot every time. Plus, it takes all of 15 minutes to prep and uses absolutely no oil” Neha says. Best served with red rice and a pile of pappadums of course.
Ingredients:
Prep:
- Slice each mango (with skin) into roughly 4 pieces + seed.
- Mix 2tbsp Kashmiri red chilli powder, 1/4tsp haldi, and a splash of water to make a thick paste. Marinate the fish in the paste. Add salt to taste and set aside.
- Grind the coconut, jeera and a little water to make a smooth paste. Set aside.
Method:
- Place mango, green chillies, ginger, and 1 cup water in a chatti or heavy bottomed pan. Bring to simmer over medium flame. Cook until mango is tender.
- After about 5-7 minutes, add coconut-jeera paste.
- Add 1tsp Kashmiri chilli powder + 1/4tsp haldi + 1 cup water.
- When the curry comes to a boil, add the marinated fish.
- Switch off after 2 minutes. The fish will cook in the residual heat.
- Cover and keep until served.Green Mangoes – 2
V. A Crunchy Besan Ka Lapta from Madhya Pradesh
The recipe uses green mangoes, coconut and is ideal for small fish like Mandeli, silver fish and prawns. “I’m particularly fond of recipes that use fish other than pomfret and seer—more diversity, more flavour I say—and this one hit the spot every time. Plus, it takes all of 15 minutes to prep and uses absolutely no oil” Neha says. Best served with red rice and a pile of pappadums of course.
Ingredients:
Green Mangoes – 2
Silver fish (or mandeli, or small prawns) –500 gm.
Kashmiri red chilli powder – 2tbsp + 1tsp
Haldi –1/4tsp + 1/4tsp
Coconut – 1 cup
Jeera – ½ tsp
Green Chillies – 3, slit
Ginger – 1-inch pieces, julienned
Curry Leaves – 2 sprigs
Prep:
- Slice each mango (with skin) into roughly 4 pieces + seed.
- Mix 2tbsp Kashmiri red chilli powder, 1/4tsp haldi, and a splash of water to make a thick paste. Marinate the fish in the paste. Add salt to taste and set aside.
- Grind the coconut, jeera and a little water to make a smooth paste. Set aside.
Method:
- Place mango, green chillies, ginger, and 1 cup water in a chatti or heavy bottomed pan. Bring to simmer over medium flame. Cook until mango is tender.
- After about 5-7 minutes, add coconut-jeera paste.
- Add 1tsp Kashmiri chilli powder + 1/4tsp haldi + 1 cup water.
- When the curry comes to a boil, add the marinated fish.
- Switch off after 2 minutes. The fish will cook in the residual heat.
- Cover and keep until served.
- Best served with red rice and a pile of pappadums.
VI. A Leafy & Light Arikoanch ki Tarkari From Bihar
Ruchi’s work extended to the neighbouring states of Bihar and Uttar Ppradesh, lending this story a primary source to culinary habits and practices of the region. Bihar, also a very dry land, necessitates food that can be digested with ease. The dish that epitomises summer in this region is called Arikoanch ki Tarkari, or vegetable of colocasia leaves. This specific recipe is from the Mithila region of Bihar.
Ingredients:
3 nos Colocasia Leaves
4tbsp Chickpea Flour
½ tsp Turmeric Powder
1 tsp Mustard Seeds
1 nos Onion
1 tbsp Garlic
1 tsp Mustard Paste (overnight soak in water to remove the bitterness before making paste)
3 nos Tomato
1 tsp Red Chilli Powder
¼ tsp Turmeric Powder
½ nos Lemon
1 tbsp Mustard Oil
Salt as per taste
Water as needed
Method:
VII. A Gloriously Stuffed Karela (AKA Dhaas Karela) from Sindh
I spoke to Roshni Bajaj Sanghvi, a reputed independent food writer and columnist, to give us a little insight into her family’s culinary tradition. While the region iItself isn’t in India per seay, the community and its cultural legacy is, and this recipe is proof of that very heritage. “It’s probably true that karela aids digestion. It’s also probably true (if you believe in Ayurveda) that it cools and cleanses the body. I had plenty of these Sindhi stuffed karelas growing up every summer for the most unambiguous reason of all – my dad’s mom loved them, and she decided what we’d eat. Dhaas (which means stuffed) gourds made up quite a bit of her summer menu, but karela was her favourite. I grew to love them too” Roshni recounts.
As with most other dishes listed here, each community, sub community and family makes it a little differently. And so it is with this dish. Roshni says, “Some versions of dhaas don’t have a gravy, others have one that’s been thickened. Some folks peel the gourds, some don’t. Some sub-communities use fennel and asafoetida in the stuffing; others would be horrified to find these flavours in their dhaas karela. Irrespective, fans of the dish defend its deliciousness to the bitter end.”
Dhaas Karela
Ingredients:
4 bitter gourds (karela)
For the stuffing
2 large onions, grated
1 tomato, finely chopped
1 tbsp homemade ginger garlic paste
1 green chilli, finely chopped
1 tsp amchur powder
1 tsp coriander seed powder
1 tsp cumin seed powder
1/4 tsp haldi powder
1/4 tsp garam masala powder
Salt, to taste
Oil
A spool of white cotton thread
1 small bowl of whipped yogurt
Salt
Method
Scrape the peels off the karela, salt them, and let them rest. This helps reduce the bitterness of the vegetable. After 15 minutes, slit them vertically, partially, leaving the ends intact. De-seed them, give them a a firm squeeze with your hands to remove some of the juices, and fry them (both deep or shallow frying work) until they soften and become a bit pliable. Set aside.
Prepare the stuffing. Squeeze the juice from the grated onions, save the juice. Pour two tablespoons of oil into a hot pan on the flame. Saute the onions for a minute, add the chopped tomato, and all the other ingredients set aside for the stuffing. Cook this mixture for two to three minutes, take it off the flame and let it cool.
Fill the karelas with the stuffing. Secure each karela around its middle, looping white thread around it five to six times before tying a knot. Put the karelas into a flat-bottomed saute pan in a single layer, pour the yogurt and onion juice around them, add a bit of salt, and cook on a medium flame until the karelas are tender and cooked through.
Serve with a light and runny khichdi, and some dudhi raita.
VIII. A Sweet Snack Of Jackfruit Dosa (Ponsa Pola) from Karnataka
Jackfruit is ubiquitous in the months before the rains, making for a popular harvest in the coastal regions of Karnataka. While the fruit is tedious to cut and clean for some, it makes up for it in it’s versatility. It’s a fruit that suits a number of cooking techniques, and can be used in a variety of ways - some that keep all through the summer heat. This recipe showcases jackfruit in the most unique form of a dosa or Ponsa Polo. It is often eaten as breakfast, and as a sweet snack in the evenings. In the Konkan Belt, Ponosu means ripe jackfruit and Polo means dosa.
Recipe Courtesy Lakshmi Canteen.
Ingredients:
*The amount of jaggery required completely depends on how sweet the jackfruit is and how much more sweet you want. The jackfruit I used was mildly sweet. I like my dosas very sweet. Hence added more jaggery (nearly 1/3 cup).
Wash and soak the rice for 1-2 hours.
Remove the jackfruit pods and discard the seeds and chop it roughly.
Now drain the water in which the rice was soaked. Transfer the rice along with chopped jackfruit, jaggery, cardamom pods and salt (you can also add the grated coconut too but I like to add to the batter to give it a nice texture).
Then grind it without adding water to get a fine paste. At this point taste the batter to check for its sweetness. If desired add more and grind it further.
Now transfer this paste to a bowl and add grated coconut and mix well. Add water in small quantities to get a thick batter but of pouring consistency (the batter has to be used immediately. If not, refrigerate it). Now heat a griddle (tawa) on a medium flame. When hot pour a ladel full of batter and spread it slightly (these dosas are generally thick and soft and they need to be cooked on a gentle heat. The dosa will burn on a high heat as it has jaggery in it).
Once the lower part of the dosa turns golden- brown, flip it and do the other side.
IX. Sweet, Sour & Heat Combine In Ghotan Sansov from Goa
While Kerala heroes the raw mango, I’ve chosen to juxtapose this ingredient with a recipe using ripe mango, a curry of sorts sure to be found during the months of summer. Called Ghotan Sansov in Konkani, this dish packs a punch while balancing sweet, sour and heat beautifully. The recipe, found on FoodienFabulous, typically calls for smalll , local varietities of mango where the seed is used in the curry and the flesh can be eaten right off of it. This recipe uses alphonso mangoes simply because the chef has deemed them to be a favourite.
Ingredients:
Instructions:
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