My parents, Bikaneri Bhujia and I — the four constants in all family vacations, especially during international travels. Bikaneri Bhujia is to them what sunblock would be for a person with severe sun allergies sitting on a beach on the brightest day of the year. They’re more likely to forget me behind than their beloved snack.
Alright, hyperbole aside and some context.
My mother is a vegetarian, my father likes claiming he is one too. So, more often than not, when we’re in a country where the only vegetarian option on the menu is a Garden Salad, we resort to eating bhujia with a slice of buttered bread, sometimes with tortilla and a cheese slices and when we are too tired to be innovative, just plain old bhujia by itself. Bhujia’s accompaniments change, but the bhujia always stays.
The point of narrating my parents’ unhealthy obsession was that it is pretty difficult for a vegetarian Indian to find a decent meal to eat in most places across the world, even more so for those who live in those countries. Surinder Kaur Cheema is changing that.
Having moved with her husband from Baroda to Ghana almost 40 years ago, over the years, Cheema has very successfully carved a niche for herself in a foreign country she now calls home and created a special place for Indian food in the Accra food scene.
Kohinoor Restaurant, an Indian eatery started by Cheema is according to the reviews “blue”. Blue being the dominant colour of the decor and not the diner’s state of mind after tasting the food, which is, in fact, quite the opposite. Kohinoor, in the 13 years that it has been around, has managed to make quite the mark in Accra, Ghana’s capital city’s food scene. “With a few Indian restaurants in Accra, and at least 3 in Osu / cantonments, there is a good amount of competition. Having lived in Ghana for ~1 year and eaten at each several times, Kohinoor is easily my favorite. The food is authentic and high quality, the quality of service is excellent, and the speed of service is unmatched in Ghana”, reads one of its numerous positive reviews.
Much to the Indian food loving Ghanaians’ delight, Cheema added a second restaurant called Delhi Palace (located in Tema) to her list of successful endeavours, which also include a catering service that has now become extremely popular in Accra.
Cheema, who started off as a teacher in Ghana, has mastered the art of efficient multitasking. When she is not busy working towards helping Ghanaians indulge in the quintessential Indian dining experience, she spends her time giving back to the community that has more than accepted her with open arms. Cheema is the president of the Indian Women’s Association in Accra, has spearheaded and greatly contributed to projects such as raising money for women with breast cancer and working towards providing borehole water for people of Abanta near Koforidua, to name a few.
Food is an intrinsic part of Indian culture. It is the easiest way to transport someone even if for a few seconds and make them feel at home in an alien environment. Cheema is using this aspect of Indian culture to not only cater to the Indian community in Ghana but also acquaint the locals to the flavours of the Indian subcontinent.
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