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This isn’t one of those places that figure on the map; nor is it a mere pitstop on the way. The land of a thousand waterfalls, Dehne is a tiny village that lies deep inside a forest in Maharasthra, nuzzled amidst the Sahyadris.
Cool clean air, a serene river, a quaint rustic village of just 300 people, a calming silence interrupted only by the sound of gushing waterfalls during the rains—Dehne is a place right out of a postcard. Its location is its USP and I realised this when I had to change 4 modes of public transport to get to this seemingly picturesque village.
One can go on for an entire lifetime without ever knowing about Dehne unless they come across the operations of Grassroutes, a responsible rural travel operator that facilitates mutually beneficial trips, for both the tourist and the local community, to the village.
Dehne’s untapped charms are best explored without itineraries, through interactions with the locals who will happily share one too many secrets of the region. Thus, a couple of days can never do justice to the exquisite beauty of this place. But by virtue of being city dwellers with only so much time in hand, Grassroutes organises comprehensive itineraries for one to get a taste of the slow-paced rural life—something I had a chance to experience very recently. So if you wish to tread this road less travelled (literally) and experience something different, read on to know why Dehne makes for a perfect monsoon escapade.
The Land Of A Thousand Waterfalls
Dehne is particularly beautiful, more so in the monsoons. With deep gorges, misty clouds, narrow creeks and heavy rainfalls, the dizzying abysses give way to cascading white waterfalls that fall over ridges. While it may be slightly dangerous to take a dip in their puddles or attempt to rappel, they make for stunning views while trekking or hiking through the forest.
Living Local
While Grassroutes provides the option to stay at canvas tents at their campsites, we’d suggest you opt for a homestay. Staying with a local family and being guided by a trained local gives insights into the village life like no other. One can be an intimate observer of the culture, lifestyle and traditions of the village and have lovely conversations over meals.
During my visit, I was hosted by the warm and welcoming Patekar family. The 18-year-old daughter, Raksha, was my village guide who took me around for the next two days. I got to relish authentic, homely, vegetarian Maharashtrian food – Bhakri, pithla and veggies made of fresh produce. Snacks consisted of biscuits with the refreshing black tea. It is an instant energizer that helps farmers toil all day long.
The Grassroutes system is such that every meal is had at a different house so that all families can earn some money and locals can enjoy different tastes and flavours.
An Afternoon Of Village Activities
Perhaps the best part about travel is the cultural exchange it enables. Intimate insights and knowledge that no book can provide. Part of the Grassroutes package to Dehne is participating in village activities.
Thus, I spent my afternoon learning how to grind rice in a chakki. Since it was made of stone, it was rather heavy. My mentors were two old grannies – Shevanta Patekar(70) and Janki Patekar (67), both sisters who had lived in the village all their life. As I slowly learned and struggled to rotate the grinder, Shevanta ajji with her frail, wrinkled hands took over and rotated the circular grinder with full force and speed. “We are used to it. You city kids are weak,” she chuckled heartily. I couldn’t have agreed more.The next few hours, I learned to make a perfect round bhakri, chop wood from an axe, and sieve rice – things I knew I’d never even attempt to learn in a city.
Grassroutes’ aim is exactly that. By encouraging rural tourism, it gives its guests an offbeat, local and nostalgic experience of their culture, heritage and lifestyle, by paying the mentors and guides a specific sum of money.
A Walk In The Forest
Dehne is surrounded by a rich cover of farm and forests making the village very picturesque. There are many trails that one can take to get lost in the stunning denizens. Part of the trip includes a guided walk in the forest that introduces the travellers to many medicinal and multi-purpose plants that the villagers use on a daily basis.
While on the walk, Raksha pointed out few trees that were used to make tattoos and liquor but what really got my attention was when she narrated a harrowing story of how she once got bitten by a snake and was saved by the leaves of a medicinal tree that grew in the forest. (Though the village has a primary health care centre, a proper hospital for chronic cases is farther away in a town).
Visit To The Tribal Village of Adivasibadi
While on the trail, I came across another village in the forest. “This is Adivasibadi, home to the Mathakur tribals. They have a very barbaric and different lifestyle from us,” she stated, instantly intriguing me.
I have always tried to be a conscious traveller and been very particular of the tourist gaze. I did not want to walk into the village, unannounced just to ‘see’ them like they were some sort of exhibits. However, their culture, especially their dressing aroused my curiosity. Raksha went and sought permission from the village head to facilitate a conversation with the villagers. Fortunately, they were welcoming.
The main occupation of Mathakur tribals is that of farming, hunting and fishing and they speak a dialect of Marathi. Women wear exotic jewellery, checkered blouses and lungis that reach up to their knees, for they have to regularly toil in farms and forests.
While here, a young man Rami Hambhir showed me a sharp, long spear that they use to hunt the wild boar that is part of their staple diet.
An Early Morning Trek To Ajobagadh Hill
Unsurprisingly, I woke up to the sound of a hen’s cackle, early next morning.
I was to trek up the Ajobagadh hill with Raksha. To be honest, I had expected something much tamer. The trek can be classified as easy but is a steep climb and cuts through a beautiful forest trail, a rocky path and sprawling, rain-fed grasslands.
As I trekked up in my heavy trekking shoes, I saw Raksha walk up in nothing but flimsy rubber slippers. I also saw many women casually trekking down barefoot, carrying firewood. I realized then that what is an adventure for us is routine for them.
The trek ends at the peak where a lovely temple is situated. The priest their offers tea and snacks to all trekkers that make it up to the summit. Raksha told me that the temple is a pilgrim spot for many villagers. “This is where Valmiki attained Moksha,” she said.
Trip To The School
Perhaps my fondest memory of Dehne is visiting the primary school and interacting with the children for an hour. The government school has over a hundred children from surrounding villages and each of them seemed keen to interact with new people.
While we played team games and team quizzes, I realized the amount of potential they had but were not able to realize it to the fullest because of their inept teachers. I felt that a regular facilitation of guest lectures from tourists could really take them a long way.
Unwind By The River
Dehne lies besides a serene, rocky river. Raksha comes to the riverside twice, every day. Once in the morning to wash clothes and once in the evening all by herself to clear her head and think. I was lucky enough to be her companion one evening. We sat with our feet dipped in the river’s placid waters.
The silence and my own reflection in the water stirred many thoughts that I did and did not want. I looked around and the bouts of restlessness were followed by some calm. Herein lay the beauty of travel.
Do Nothing At All
Grassroutes may provide a wonderful experience at Dehne, but it means nothing if you do not take the time to reflect upon it and soak in the experience. Thus the itinerary is designed in a way such that it allows ample time to rest and relax. I had a lot of time to take walks through Dehne all by myself, converse with fellow travellers and locals, and introspect under a starry sky about the day I had.
Know Your Impact
When you travel with a sustainable tour operator, you create an impact that may not always be visible. Responsible travellers provide the much-required exposure to local communities that are often cut-off from the rest of the world. They help strengthen the local economy and generate employment.
Grassroutes has trained village personnel in Dehna to be guides, homestay owners etc. The village has seen a 25% increase in average annual household income, 6,000 to 8,000 days of employment created annually per village, reduced migration to cities due to the creation of livelihood opportunities, conversations on the environment and a much-needed revival of local arts and crafts.
Grassroutes is a responsible rural operator that has a code of conduct laid out for all their travellers. We encourage you to follow it strictly so Dehne can continue thriving in all its naturalness.
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