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It was just yesterday that I was inside the towering Mehrangar Fort, the most marvelous architectural marvel in the Blue City. The notes of Rajasthani folk music, played by local musicians on the dhol and the kamayacha cascaded through the air as I explored all that the fort had to offer. The fort stands on the Bakurcheeria hilltop in Jodhpur and was built around 1459 by the Rajput ruler of the Rathore clan Rao Jodha. It took me a good four hours to explore all the ins and outs of the fort and its galleries — the gigantic and rough sandstone facade, the humungous steel doors with spikes on its exterior to ward off invaders, the exquisitely carved marble archways, the magnificent Phool Mahal, the winding staircases, the intimidating Kilkila cannons overlooking the city atop the fort, the packed armory with legendary shields and swords, grand paintings, the palanquin exhibits, the Turban Gallery; the list goes on. But behind this grand historical site, lies an intriguing story and an ancient curse.
The fort's origins are steeped in a tale of ambition and consequence. Rao Jodha, a king driven by grand visions, set his sights upon the majestic Bakurcheeria hill to build his fort. However, residing there was Cheeria Nathji, a revered hermit known for his devotion to birds. He was unwilling to relocate. Even though the king tried to appease the hermit by providing him with a home and a temple in close proximity to the fort, he refused Rao Jodha’s offer. After various attempts to convince the hermit, the Maharaja went to Karni Mataji (a divine warrior Lord) for aid and that proved to be the ace move.
Cheeria Nathji decided to move but not before laying a curse on the fort. He told the king that his land would forever suffer from a scarcity of water. Soon after, the people found that the land was plagued with droughts. Today, we might attribute that to Jodhpur’s geographical location but during those times, everyone believed it to be the consequence of the hermit’s curse. Undeterred but wary, Rao Jodha became hell-bent on finding a solution. He returned to Cheeria Nathji and begged his forgiveness. Even though, the hermit forgave him, he could not revoke the curse as words once uttered, cannot be taken back. So the hermit suggested a human sacrifice be made to reduce the strength of this curse.
For a while, the Maharaja did not find any willing volunteers to save his city. It was then that Rajaram Meghwal, a man of resolute spirit, volunteered to be buried alive beneath the fort's cornerstone. The year was 1459, and his selfless act became the cornerstone upon which Mehrangarh rose. A memorial within the fort serves as a permanent reminder of his sacrifice.
Beyond The Mehrangar Fort’s magnificent palaces, museums, and courtyards, its legend is steeped within a complex narrative of human will, religious beliefs, and the price of grandeur. If you’re ever in Jodhpur, you can take my word for it and be sure to visit this architectural marvel.
