Amisha Kanjilal is a London-based homegrown photographer who uses their lens to spotlight and zoom in on the inherent queerness that's embedded in our collective past and present. We caught up with the young creative to learn more about their latest campaign, 'ISHQ'.
Tell us a little about 'ISHQ'.
'ISHQ' is a fashion campaign that explores and celebrates the rich history of queer expression in India. The project blends ancient cultural acceptance with modern resilience, drawing from Vedic texts, temple art, and mythology to highlight India’s historical recognition of diverse gender identities and sexual orientations. Through fashion, photography, and digital storytelling, ISHQ reclaims and reimagines queer narratives that were erased or suppressed due to colonial rule. Shot against a backdrop of Indo-Saracenic architecture, the project creates a visual dialogue between past and present, challenging contemporary perceptions of queerness and embracing its deep cultural roots in Indian history.
Describe your creative process and the purpose with which you create.
My creative process begins with extensive research; understanding historical contexts, dissecting colonial narratives, and drawing parallels between past and present. I build mood boards that blend archival imagery, contemporary fashion, and socio-political themes. Once the concept is defined, I focus on curating garments, locations, and models that embody the story authentically. My purpose is to create art that challenges erasure, highlights underrepresented histories, and sparks conversations about identity, belonging, and resilience.
What are some of your biggest inspirations and influences over the course of your artistic career so far?
Stories of Shikhandi, Mohini, and Ardhanarishvara inspire my exploration of gender fluidity. The visual language of historical Indian art, especially Khajuraho’s sculptures, informs my aesthetic choices. Scholars and activists reclaiming South Asian queer histories motivate my work. Designers like Sabyasachi and Iris van Herpen, and the way they weave history into fashion, influence my approach.
What are some things you learned while putting this project together?
This project deepened my understanding of how queerness has always existed within Indian cultural frameworks. I realised how colonialism distorted and erased these histories, making it even more important to reclaim them through artistic expression. Additionally, working with diverse queer models and collaborators reinforced the need for authentic representation in fashion and media. The process also taught me how to merge historical research with contemporary visual storytelling to make these narratives more accessible.
Who are some artists who are currently on your radar?
Sunil Gupta's photographic documentation of South Asian queer life is incredibly inspiring, as is Raf Simons' approach to blending nostalgia, rebellion, and cultural history in fashion. I also like how Rituparno Ghosh's films explore gender, sexuality, and identity with nuance and depth and how Gauri Gill's portrait photography captures marginalized communities.
Tell us about a project you wish you were a part of.
I would have loved to be part of Gucci’s 'Mx' Campaign, which blurred gender binaries in fashion, or Raja Kumari’s music videos, where she fuses South Asian aesthetics with global queer narratives. Working on a project like the 'Queering the Museum' initiative, which integrates LGBTQ+ narratives into historical spaces, would also be a dream.
You can follow Amisha here.
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