Mythology plays a central role in Odisha's textile traditions. Colours and motifs are informed by what is familiar, the flora and fauna of the region, but also ancient rituals and worship.
The triangular 'kumbha' temple spires so prevalent across bandha — a traditional silk and cotton Ikat tie-dying technique — for example, is testament to this idea. For the Dongria Kondh community — a particularly vulnerable polytheistic animist tribe based in the densely-forested Niyamgiri hills tract in Odisha — known for their handwoven and hand-embroidered shawls and sarees, their customs are centred around farming the fertile slopes of the hills, harvesting their crops, and worshipping the mountain deity Niyama Raja. This reflects in the tribe's traditional hand-woven 'kapdaganda' shawl which features vibrant colours and intricate hand-embroidered geometric patterns and symbolic tribal motifs.
Across Odisha — and most of India — these ancient, indigenous textile traditions were born out of necessity and meant for the personal use of the weavers themselves. But beyond that, these textiles are also living archives of the weavers' lives and histories — they are documents of a living heritage passed down through generations. Over the years, though, these textiles have become so popular and therefore so expensive that many, if not most, of the weavers themselves can no longer afford them. Despite their rich cultural and artisanal legacies — each with distinct aesthetics and histories — Odisha's remote weaving communities struggle to survive today, leading to dwindling interest in the next generation of artisans to pursue and preserve these precious textile traditions.
Boito, a conscientious luxury label devoted to preserving and reimagining Odisha's rich textile heritage is a collaborative platform that is trying to remedy this by empowering Odisha's weaving communities.
Boito uses raw textile pieces to create contemporary high-fashion silhouettes for a global audience. Each garment is designed to be an heirloom piece, drawing deep inspiration from Odisha’s vibrant traditions where mythology, ritual and nature converge.
Boito's 'Beginnings' collection is an ode to the rituals and ceremonies from this land of artisans, with a primary focus on outerwear such as trench coats, jackets and kimonos providing a larger canvas for the stories woven into these exquisite textiles to shine through. The collection also includes a selection of accessories and objects, showcasing the remarkable craftsmanship from the lotus-eating state.
The collection will be on show at an exhibition titled 'Odisha in Ceremony: Ritual & Practice from the Land of Artists' at the Whalesong Gallery in Parra, Goa, from December 15, 2024, till January 5, 2025. The exhibition will feature Odisha's traditional textiles and crafts such as Bomkai, Dhokra, Kapdaganda, Khandua, Kotpad, Pipli, Ringa, and Sambalpuri.
"Whalesong and Boito come together to celebrate the story of revitalising time-honoured textile practices of Odisha, showcasing the textile makers who are uniquely interpreting and adapting traditional skills to our changing world. We are delighted to collaborate to echo the voices that weave songs."Sonal Chowdhary, Co-Founder, Whalesong Gallery
Exclusive preview on December 14, 2024, from 3 p.m. to 7 p.m.
Follow Whalesong Gallery here.
Follow Boito here.
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