I’ve lived in Pune full-time for about 17 years of my life and it’s always been a bit of a love-hate relationship. Anyone who grows up here would probably tell you the exact same thing.
Practically my entire family was born and raised in Pune and I’ve heard countless stories about how sleepy and laid back it once was; how you could “drive from one end of the city to the other in 15 minutes.” Today, it exists somewhere between a big bustling city and a small student town where everyone knows everyone. As one of India’s few ‘almost-Metropolises’, it’s always lived in the shadow of its neighbouring big sister but seems comfortably unbothered by the pressure of conforming to the pace and the sheer unrelenting relentlessness of India’s financial and cultural capital.
There’s an incomparable combination of calm serene cafes, bustling underground pubs that meld in with the somewhat esoteric architecture of the old city, and restaurants that mix both new-world experimentation and culturally tried and tested recipes derived directly from the melting pot of cultures that found their way here hundreds of years ago. It’s not Mumbai; it’ll never be Mumbai, but it finds a way to leave a mark on your life through its collective hybridity.
When my editor-in-chief first asked me to write this article, it was 2022 and there was an immediate reticence on my part. See, I grew up abroad and moved here relatively late into my adolescence. Pune has shaped a major part of my formative years, but I feel almost disingenuous writing about Pune as though I’m a through-and-through local. But the more I thought about it, the more I realised that my own identity has come to mirror the unique hybrid experiential intersections that Pune has become known for.
Pune isn’t perfect and it never fits into one ideal or notion, but that’s exactly what makes it feel so human. A trip to Pune is about finding beauty and a sense of home within those imperfections and those idiosyncrasies. It’s something all of us Poonekars have come to make our peace with and even love. We’re all a little jaded by the city we call our home but that’s what makes it special.
As of last week, I will have written for Homegrown for three years of my life while working from Pune, so it seems fitting that I pay a slightly begrudging tribute to the spaces and places here that embrace the beautiful, somewhat comforting purgatory that only Pune can offer.
Here’s a one-of-a-kind 12-hour guide to what I think are the best experiences Pune has to offer, especially if you’re pressed for time or are only here for the day.
Vohuman is the granddaddy of all Pune Irani cafes and there’s nothing like a hearty breakfast and piping hot cups full of Irani Chai to get your day in Pune well and truly underway. They’re best known for their decadently slathered buttered toasts and sinfully gooey cheese and masala omelettes, along with a whole host of colourful regular customers that will immediately brighten your day with their larger-than-life personalities and conversation.
It’s a cultural heritage cliche when in Pune but all cliches exist for a reason. Shaniwar Wada is a larger-than-life experience that transports you back in time to an era of gleaming swords and shattered shields. The fort itself presents you with a magnificent historical perspective from the home of the Peshwas themselves and there are plenty of guided tours that’ll help you get acquainted with every nook and cranny of this sprawling heritage fortress.
Le Plaisir is a Pune restaurant that takes the homely and unpretentious spirit of Pune and melds it with classic French and continental sensibilities and flavours. With a selection of pastas, croissant sandwiches, desserts, and seasonal offerings, there’s a palpable warmth that envelopes you completely; from your tantalising first bite to that last savour-worthy morsel. Wash it all down with their practically world-famous ice teas that’ll keep you coming back for more.
There are few places in Pune that have as much historical and political significance as the Aga Khan Palace. The palace, which once served as a prison for Mahatma Gandhi, Kasturba Gandhi, and Mahadev Desai, Mahatma’s personal secretary during the Quit India Movement, now stands as both a chronicle of their lives while interned there and the Indian freedom struggle as a whole. A visit here allows you to fully appreciate the understated role that this small, quiet city played in shaping the trajectory of the nation.
Tucked away in a quiet bylane of the bohemian paradise that is Koregaon Park, away from the hustle and bustle of the city traffic, French Window is the perfect spot for an evening cup of coffee and a delightfully saccharine slice of cake. You can spend hours here catching up with a loved one or an old friend; sneaking a sly cigarette as you sip your French press and watching the sun set over another beautiful Pune skyline.
If you’re looking for dinner, beers, cocktails, and camaraderie, then look no further than Swig in Koregaon Park, an establishment that is part restaurant, part town pub, and part live gig venue that brings you a host of acts from across the country across indie, rock, electronic, and even regional landscapes. All of this when combined with a whole host of regulars that love to make you feel welcome and at home, means that Swig is an absolute no-brainer for a feel-good night on the town.
When it comes to live music, I don’t think it’s an exaggeration to say that there are very few venues in the country that have done as much for the local scene as High Spirits has over the past two decades. Built into a residential bungalow near ABC Farms, Koregaon Park, High Spirits and the team that runs it have made it their mission to create an environment for live music that places the concert experience, for both the performers and the audience, above all else. Their uncompromising approach to artist curation has influenced and inspired an entire generation of musicians and they continue to bring down some of the best homegrown artists across genres.
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