Designed by Swiss-French architect Le Corbusier, Chandigarh is celebrated for its urban order. Every year when I’d go visit my grandparents, I’d be amazed at its perfectly planned grids — a stark contrast to the haphazardness of Mumbai. In the middle of the city lies a contradiction: a tale of a village that resisted the tides of urbanization. Amid Chandigarh’s geometric gridlines is Sector 45. Home to the erstwhile village of Burail, it's a place that thrives in the chaos it's carved out for itself.
Walking through Sector 45 overwhelms the senses. Modern buildings jostle for space with ancient structures, creating a blend of timeworn nostalgia and contemporary enterprise. Underneath awnings that have seen decades of change, motorcycles weave through crowded alleys. It’s a world apart from the city’s symmetry; a testament to how Burail’s history shapes its present.
The village of Burail predates Chandigarh by centuries, with roots stretching back to the Mughal era. Once a flourishing settlement surrounded by dense mango groves, nature gave way to the inevitability of urban sprawl. Burail’s historical footprint includes the Suraj Kund lake and other water bodies that have disappeared under the weight of unchecked development. What remains is a vivid contrast: a bustling motor market, scrap yards, and small-scale industries coexisting with remnants of the old village.
Burail’s story is one of resilience. When Chandigarh was conceived as a post-Partition utopia, many villages were uprooted to make way for the city’s grid. Burail, however, stood its ground. Under the leadership of figures like Chaudhari Bhopal Singh, the village resisted displacement and became one of the first “urban villages” absorbed into Chandigarh. This autonomy allowed Burail to retain its distinct identity within the city’s fold.
Burail’s history is as rich in folklore as it is in fact. The Burail Fort, a forgotten Mughal bastion, hides in plain sight. Once a symbol of Mughal authority, the fort later became a rallying point for Sikh warriors. The stories of Banda Singh Bahadur and Baj Singh Bahadur remain etched in the village’s collective memory. The Shiv Mandir of Suraj Kund is also steeped in legend. Its Shivling, believed to possess divine powers, has stories of lightning strikes and miraculous milk streams. These tales, passed down through generations, give the village an air of mystique.
Despite its chaos, Sector 45 operates like a self-contained ecosystem. Its labyrinthine streets, lined with vertical expansions of old buildings, juxtapose with the sprawling roads of Chandigarh. Yet, the sector’s unchecked growth brings its own challenges — encroachments, poor infrastructure, and rising crime.
For all its flaws, Burail retains a sense of community rare in urban centers. When tragedy strikes, as it did with the kidnapping of a child years ago, the village rallies together. Its residents all contribute to its dynamic yet fragile ecosystem.
Burail is a microcosm of history’s ability to endure against the odds. Its stories offer a glimpse into a past that refuses to be erased by time or neglect. But, its challenges remain daunting. The decay of its infrastructure, the neglect of its historical sites, and the apathy of authorities threaten to overshadow its legacy. In a place designed to be a “City Beautiful”, Burail and Sector 45 are reminders that beauty lies not only in perfection but also in the resilience of places. Walking its streets is as much a journey through a forgotten corner as it is a step into the untold stories that shaped it.
If you enjoyed reading this, here's more from Homegrown:
Eat, Explore, & Play: A Homegrown 12-Hour Guide To Pune
Kannur's Odam Museum Is A Celebration Of The Region's Handloom Weaving Heritage