In many ways, North-Eastern cuisine is still a bit of a question mark to most of the country. Aside from the obligatory brushes with Momos and at a stretch, the soupy delights of Thukpa, there is a whole arena of delicacies that have yet to be explored. The Sister States - as they’re known - include Arunachal Pradesh, Assam, Manipur, Meghalaya, Nagaland, Mizoram, Tripura and the additional ‘brother’ state of Sikkim. Although most of us would be happy to club them together under one grand umbrella they each have unique and intriguing eating habits that are a delight to explore.
If you travel to the capital city the number of restaurants serving authentic food from the region may be few and far between but if you know where to look you can rustle up the very best of the North East cookery. To that end we’ve prepared our guide to the best places around Delhi where you can take your first tentative steps into this brave new gastronomic world although we’re pretty sure that you’ll soon be regulars. From the delicious bamboo and pork dishes to spizy Mizo Khelsa, (a mutton dish we can’t get enough of) never say no to anything on the menu at any one of these delicious eateries, for the sake of your taste buds.
I. Bamboo Hut
Cuisine: Bamboo Hut offers the most genuine Naga food and a welcoming Naga experience to boot.
Cheap, cheerful and serving up some bloody good food, Bamboo Hut has become a favourite destination for students, especially those from the North East who are looking for a taste of home. The furniture is all made of wood, with bamboo mats and cutlery. Although it’s a student hangout they don’t serve alcohol but they do have a delicious fruit beer that will quench any thirst.
What you’re getting: The Naga Thali is the way to go if you want a full meal. In a single thali, you get a choice of meat with rice, Naga dal, boiled veggies and chutney. If that sounds a bit too familiar remember that each item is cooked to perfection in its own unique way and flavour, it is certainly more exotic than your standard thali.
Cuisine: This is essentially a mini Nagaland in the heart of Delhi so don’t expect your order to come with a side of fries or chicken tikka.
Named after the Dzukou valley in Nagaland it stands to reason that this should be the ultimate destination for Naga cuisine. A favourite among locals for many years, it recently re-launched in a new location which has spectacular views of the lake and has been done up in traditional Naga style. With the woven bamboo blinds, thatched roofs and the scent of smoky meat wafting through the air you’ll soon be enchanted by the charms of this magical state. Every dish is cooked to perfection with the best organic ingredients and they bring fresh bamboo shoots and spices down regularly. If this wasn’t alluring enough, their bar serves a range of Naga staples like Rice wine and Raja Mircha mocktails which are pretty phenomenal.
What you’re getting: The star of the show is undoubtedly the smoked pork which you can try plain or in a curry. The crispy exterior and juicy innards are a testament to the labourious process which goes into perfecting the dish. The Sunday special, a dry fish curry with white starch is also a great option if you want something a little less rich. Add a side of the Rosen Aop, which are mixed vegetables in local herbs and spices and you’ll have yourself a true Naga feast.
III. Gharua Exaj
Cuisine: This is one of the few places you can explore the true complexities of Assamese cuisine and considering how reasonably priced it is, we suggest you order up as much as you dare and try a bit of everything.
This neat little restaurant tucked away in an unassuming corner is a great place for people trying to acquaint themselves with Assamese cuisine. The interiors aren’t elaborate but handicrafts from Assam adorn the walls and give the place a cheerful, homely vibe. If you needed any further convincing about the restaurant’s authenticity you can listen closely and you’ll notice the Assamese songs are playing over the radio. Affordable and uncomplicated with generous portions that never compromise on taste, this is a truly bona fide Assam experience.
What you’re getting: One great option is the Pork Khorika, a dish of baked and roasted meat on a bed of chillies and onions paired with mildly flavoured lentils and steamed rice. You could also try the Non-vegetarian thali which serves up 2 kinds of vegetables and dals with 3 chutneys, fried eggplant, Aloo Pitika (potato chutney), Payoxh (Kheer) and a choice of pork, duck chicken or fish curry.
IV. Hornbill
Cuisine: Pork is a staple for many a Naga dish and Hornbill’s menu manages to cover almost all its delicious aspects so you can get your fill of this divine meat.
Tucked behind the Cadet Corps. this elusive basement eatery can be a bit challenging to find but for all the meat eaters it’s definitely worth the hunt as the dish they are most famed for is their pork. With low seating, dim lights and low music the ambience of this place will instantly set you at ease. They believe in maintaining authenticity not only in their décor but in their food and have set out to give people a taste of the very best the cuisine has to offer sourced directly from the homeland.
What you’re getting: Although every pork dish here is well above average the very best bet is the smoked pork with Axone chutney (a fermented soya bean creation). The pork itself is a marvel with a crunchy exterior and tender meat but paired with the pungent, earthy chutney the whole dish gets an unparalleled flavour.
Cuisine: Displaying the lesser known aspects of Naga cuisine is where they excel but they add a splash of Tibetan with the special Momo Thukpa.
Though they have retained a rustic charm with their bamboo furniture and walls hung with traditional artifacts and portraits, they have also embraced contemporary elements so rather than feeling like you’re stepping back in time you can believe you’re sitting down to dine in any modern Naga eatery. For the uninitiated the waiters – dressed in traditional attire – are friendly and would be happy to guide you through their extensive list of exotic treats and point out their specialties.
What you’re getting: This restaurant caters to those with adventurous tastes, from their Kongshia Aon which is dried eel dish, to their Ak Poknung which is made with pork entrails. They also specialise in dishes made with Bhut Jolokia, the ghost pepper so if you think you can handle the heat try the Anishi which is pork cooked in dried yam leaves and served with a bhut jolokia chutney. They even put these deadly chillies in their drinks so go wild and try the Raja Mircha Vodka shot and the Naga Chilli Bloody Mary.
VI. Rosang Soul Food
Cuisine: This restaurant reps dishes from every state in the North-East proving yet again that the greatest unifier will always be food.
This restaurant should be on your list if you’re new to this cuisine and want to sample every delight the North East has to offer because it’s the one place where dishes from all the states co-exist harmoniously. They take great pride in providing the very best of the region and fresh produce is flown in weekly from their homeland. The owner, Mary ensures you have a warm welcome and are treated with nothing but hospitality and great food. The place is almost always packed so it’s better to reserve your table beforehand, try to get there on a Wednesday, Friday or a Sunday because there’s an exclusive alternate menu available to those lucky enough to be in the know. To add to the overall cultural education they also screen documentaries and sell photos and handicrafts from the region so by the time you leave you’ll feel like you gained much more than just a delicious dinner.
What you’re getting: Thanks to their diverse menu choosing what you want can be quite a task but we’ve narrowed down the list to a few must-haves, the Mizo Kelsa which is a spicy mutton dish. The Jardoh, a Meghalayan dish made with wild red rice, pork and sesame, Iromba, a oil-free steamed veggie dish with fermented fish which comes from Manipur and the Aloo Tama a simple potato dish with beans and bamboo shoots that originates in Sikkim and makes a great side dish.
Special Mention
Dilli Haat
Where: Aurobindo Marg
Cuisine: It would be impossible to narrow down the plethora of goodies available at Dilli Haat but Momo Mia’s fare is typically Sikkim style.
This place takes the levels of North Eastern culinary exploration to a whole new level. An open air food plaza this venture by the Delhi Tourism Board unites cuisines, cultures and craftsmen from all over the country. Although you’ll be spoilt for choice once you get there, the one place you’ll have to make a stop is Momo Mia. Now we know that you could argue that momos are hardly a gastronomic revolution, we do promise that these will make you view those little dumplings in a whole new light. You can also stop by the Nagaland stall if you feel a craving for something more filling.
What you’re getting: The juicy momos in an elite chilli sauce at Momo Mia, washed down with a cold fruit beer, and the melt-in-the-mouth pork ribs with akhuni (fermented soy beans) at the Nagaland stall.
Research: Meharunnisa Moula Sahib