There is a great reason why most fashion enthusiasts love shoes. As opposed to tailored garments, well-made shoes and accessories can stand the test of time. Especially since the human body might change quite a bit throughout our lifetime, but our feet rarely do. So from the most iconic Manolo Blahniks and Louboutins to the best homegrown sneakers, or even well-crafted Kolhapuris, they are pieces that one rarely outgrows.
When talking about well-made, fashionable footwear, homegrown Chennai-based brand Disobedience can be looked to for its individuality and environmental responsibility. Founded by Anita Soundar, a former chemical engineer turned footwear designer, this luxury eco-conscious footwear brand exists at the intersection of style and sustainability.
From Chemical Engineering To Sustainable Fashion
Anita's transition from the realm of chemical engineering and industrial entrepreneurship to footwear design speaks to her passion for self-expression and environmental consciousness. With a master's degree in environmental management obtained in 2003, she delved deep into life cycle assessments and sustainable practices long before they became industry buzzwords. This academic foundation, combined with hands-on experience, equipped her with a unique perspective on blending traditional craftsmanship with modern, eco-friendly innovations.
"Without sounding braggy, I did my master's in environmental management back in 2003, where we studied life cycle and impact assessment of a product, environmental sustainability, and preventing pollution before it occurs. Today, all these have become very relevant, and I sort of apply these principles when I choose materials for our shoes. We even want to buy back and recycle our shoes," Anita shares. Beyond sustainability, Disobedience is also rooted in personal self-expression.
"We are constantly told by everyone around us who we are, what we like, and what we should do in our life. It’s no longer that way, but I come from an era where family, society, and culture shaped a person's individuality. Now, at 42, I want to tell myself that I am okay. I have come to terms with myself and be okay with it. For me, this is the core of Disobedience."Anita Soundar, Founder, Disobedience
Stepping Into Disobedience
The entirety of Disobedience as a brand is tied to its commitment to bettering the industry of footwear through the use of sustainable materials. Eschewing conventional leather and plastic-based components, the brand pioneers the use of plant-based leather, natural fibres, and upcycled elements. The plant-based leathers are innovative alternatives derived from mango and hemp that offer durability and comfort while minimizing environmental impact. Natural fibres ensure each pair is both stylish and biodegradable. By repurposing handwoven plastic textiles and post-consumer denim, Disobedience upcycles waste into wearable art. This meticulous material selection is not merely about aesthetics; it's a reflection of the brand's dedication to conscious consumption and environmental responsibility.
Understanding the temperamentality of the Indian climate, Disobedience designs footwear that marries functionality with flair. The use of vegan tropical fabrics ensures breathability and comfort, making each pair ideal for diverse weather conditions. This thoughtful approach earned the brand the prestigious Global Footwear Award in 2023, being lauded for its use of “natural materials like jute, cotton, linen, and bamboo were utilised to create the shoes in this collection, which includes boots and medium-heeled shoes. These fibres are hand-spun and hand-woven into textiles. These are 100% biodegradable and recyclable materials. Natural teak wood was utilized as the heel in an effort to decrease the usage of plastics.”
But the path to sustainable luxury is one laden with challenges. Anita candidly shares the hurdles faced, from securing funding for research and development to training artisans to working with unconventional materials. "Funding to afford expensive materials for R&D has been a major challenge. We have made 400-500 shoes in these four years. Training our technicians — who have worked with leather —to work with handwoven cotton, plant leather, cellulose sheets, or even upcycled plastics has been challenging. A lot of materials and man-hours go into R&D without knowing if there is going to be a market for these products."
Despite these hurdles, Disobedience remains steadfast in its pursuit of innovation. After all, it is much more than a footwear brand; it's a movement encouraging wearers to embrace their unique identities. Each design serves as a canvas for self-expression, or as Anita aptly puts it, the brand is a "declaration, striding boldly, breaking free from the chains of fashion conformity."
Follow Disobedience here.
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