Exotic Spices & Kappa Fish Curry — Exploring Delhi’s Iconic INA Market

Kirti Narain for Homegrown

Bradley Hansen, 56, and his wife and two sons will call New Delhi their home for the next three years. In their first week, since they landed from the United States, the Hansen family found themselves at INA market, south Delhi’s go-to place for fresh produce and household items. “Brad, they have American maple syrup here,” yells Hansen’s wife from the departmental store in front. “But it’s really expensive!” she exclaims as she turns the bottle over. Most things at INA market tend to be.

Named after the Indian National Army, the INA market is a high-end shopping destination that most expatriates and foreign diplomats in the city turn to for their grocery needs. The shops are known to keep a host of imported fruits and vegetables, fresh meat, seafood and farm produce, along with spices and various kinds of packaged foods too. If a drone-camera were to hover over the market, it looks quite like an organized grid, with each lane and intersection dedicated to a different commodity.

The Spice Bazaar

On entering the lane closest to the main road, one steps into a world of vibrant spices. Krishna Lal Masala Store, run by 52-year-old Bharat Sharma, has been around since 1962. Started by Sharma’s grandfather, the tiny store sells a host of spices that are acquired from all over India, then ground and packaged personally by the workers at the shop. From pepper to cardamom, star anise and cinnamon sticks, the shop offers everything and then some more. The wall behind the cash counter is lined with boxes labelled ‘Mix Seed Berries’, ‘Chia Seeds’, etc. The only thing Sharma says is imported are the packaged masalas by brands like Shan and Laziza, both headquartered in Karachi, Pakistan. A packet labelled ‘Fresh Iran Dates’ on the window also promises to have made a journey over many mountains.

The lane in general also has various kinds of rice and pulses to offer. A kilo of full basmati may cost anywhere between Rs 70 to Rs 120.

Photographed by Kirti Narain for Homegrown

Exotic Fruits and Vegetables

Just around the corner from the spice bazaar are rows upon rows of shops selling fresh and exotic fruits and vegetables. There is, of course, the garden variety produce available in other mandis in the city but INA surprises the most with its meaty and delectable variety of imported vegetables and fruits, (though of course, it comes at a price). “Everyone likes to eat, but only those who want to eat fresh come here,” 39-year-old Rajesh, who runs the Ahuja Vegetable Store, says with conviction. His store started nearly 60 years ago by his grandfather, prides itself on sourcing the fruits and vegetables directly from farms, whether its Kashmiri cherries or strawberries from Mahabaleshwar. “People are under the impression that you don’t get these things in India. But even avocados are available here, we source it from farms all over Karnataka, Tamil Nadu and Uttarakhand,” Rajesh says.

While the likes of broccoli, baby carrots and lettuce found companions among the homegrown bhindi and cauliflower a few years ago, other exotic greens that are less commonly used in Indian households are all available at INA market. The most popular are ingredients common to Asian cooking – from Shiitake and Shimeji mushrooms to kaffir lime, Thai ginger, lemon grass, etc. Also lined outside most departmental and vegetable shops are cartons of dried fish, ready to be purchased.

From a small packet of burnt chilly to the juiciest cantaloupe, everything has a mouth-watering effect on the shopper, even in its raw form. Few can resist the urge to bring something back to their kitchens.

Photographed by Kirti Narain for Homegrown

Fresh Seafood and Meats

The mist wafting from the large slabs of ice used to keep the fish and seafood fresh, provides some respite from the sultry heat in the summer months, though the strong stench of meat can be overwhelming too. From Black and White Pomfret, Hilsa, to shrimps, Tiger Prawns, the market has a large variety. Even eels are available! All shopkeepers make a daily trip to the Ghazipur mandi to get their hands on freshly arrived batches of fish. The prices range depending on the type of fish and its availability – Black Pomfret starts at Rs 550, and if over a kilo, a Hilsa could cost as much as Rs 1500. “When we began, we used to sell fish for Rs 40 and Rs 50, so even Rs 200 sounds expensive to us. But these are today’s rates,” says Ashok Bajaj, 62, pragmatically. But even the foreign expats have learnt by now – nothing gets purchased at INA without a sweat and a good haggle.

While the market is known for high-quality fish, one can also find a variety of red and white meat. Whether it’s chicken, mutton or pork, every variety of meat comes from a different bazaar in the city and many vendors sell halal. Some shops even preserve the chicken feet to be used in special northeastern and Asian delicacies.

Photographed by Kirti Narain for Homegrown

Taste of Kerala

Amid all the shops catering to international tastes and cuisines, INA market is also home to some Malayali eateries. Kerala Hotel, for one, has been a Delhi must-visit for decades. Though it’s slightly cramped and can accommodate only small groups at once, the eatery knows food and knows it well. A sumptuous meal for two, with biryani, appam, chicken stew and various fries and roasts, amounts to a comfortable Rs 400. Across the joint is another, called Appu’s Hotel, which prides itself on its KFC – Kappa Fish Curry. A must try for those looking for a large meal on a small budget.

One can often hear popular Malayalam film songs bellowing from the stores that line the courtyard. From murukku and Malayalam tabloids to special south Indian plantains, this end of INA market has for long been fulfilling the needs of the Malayali community in the capital.

On the outside, INA looks like any other market – ordinary looking shops and some hawkers gathering as traffic lines up outside. But it’s only once you step in through one of the many entrances of the market that you discover its systematic wonder. The vibrancy of the 200-odd shops fills even the most casual shopper with a sense of excitement to whip up a new recipe. Friendly porters in maroon shirts and caps gather outside the shops, offering to carry bags for a small fee. From exotic fruits to vegetables, meat, garments, kitchen supplies and more, if it’s not available at INA market, it’s not available anywhere else.