This Fashion Label In Nagaland Is Paving The Way For Northeastern Minimalism

When we hear of a rediscovery, reclamation, or redefining of regional traditions in the lifestyle space, we’re usually directed to everything but fashion. Oddly, regional fashion has not been as wildly popular as initiatives focused on regional cuisine and travel destinations. Other than learning about tailoring techniques, fabrics, and prints localised to a certain geographical area, putting a spotlight on regional aesthetics brings pride and glory back to individualism, especially in a country as diverse as ours is. Even more, fashion always tells a story; and regional fashion is full of lessons on history, gender equality, and language. The Thokha Studio is no exception.

Marketed as “designed and tailored in Nagaland,” Thokha Studio was founded by two sisters, Ilika Yepthomi and Ashi Awomi who were born, raised, and educated in Nagaland. Ilika, the older sibling, is now settled with her family in Dimapur, the largest city in Nagaland. But, Ashi has been shuffling between Delhi and Nagaland in recent years. Ashi had initially set her sights on a degree in designing which she later discontinued because of the differences between the institution’s teaching style and her expectations of what she could learn. But, the two women’s career in design did not fall flat. “My sister and I always thought of starting something like this [Thokha Studio]. So, we did 3 months ago,” Ashi tells me. Although there is not much supremely unique, aesthetic and technically, to Dimapur, Ashi says that Thokha Studio’s collection stems from her and Ilika’s personal style.

“The clothes are reflective of my personality. I’m not someone who follows current trends. So, we lean towards minimal designs with not too much going on. We don’t sell anything too loud,” says Ashi referencing her muted, pastel shaded pieces. The store also draws inspiration from Yohji Yamamoto, a Japanese designer, who works with simple aesthetics and light fabrics that stand out. Ashi adds that Thokha Studio’s clothes are similarly tailored from light, airy fabrics- cotton, linen, rayon, and light wool- that are perfect for Nagaland’s hot weather.

The most interesting element about Thokha Studio is its fusion of gender fluid philosophy and the etymology of its name. “‘Thokha’ is a word from the Sumi tribe. It means ‘everything.’ This store means everything to us, and we’re also creating clothes for every gender, every person,” Ashi says.

Although Thokha Studio currently operates only out of Dimapur, it ships nationally. Ashi says that her team is working on a website but, for now, people should enquire about the store’s clothes through DMs on Instagram. Thokha Studio, or “our baby” as Ashi calls it, has a bright future in design. For instance, Ashi says that she’s experimenting with colour grading and implementing inputs from people who are not from the fashion world- opening up the industry to those who wouldn’t normally interact with it.

Although nascent, Thokha Studio is starting to find its feet and niche and set to become a strong, northeastern minimalist voice of Indian fashion.

Feature image by: Thokha Studio

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