The Origins and History of Dhansak: The Quintessential Parsi Dish

Arguably the most famous of all Parsi dishes, a name that’s almost synonymous with traditional Parsi cuisine, dhansak is a simple preparation of lentils (dhan) and vegetables (shaak), served on a bed of caramelized brown rice and a kachumber (a salad of finely diced tomatoes, cucumbers, and onions with a squeeze of lime on top).

A cross between Persian and Gujarati dishes, dhansak is said to be a variation on the Persian stew khoresh, traditionally made with plums, meat, lentils, and vegetables. Any Parsi dish is a delicate balance of sweet and sour, all while packing a massive punch on flavour. The combination of meat and fruit is a typical of Parsi food and has Persian origins. After fleeing Persia to avoid persecution, the Parsis landed on the shores of Gujarat and became habituated to many sub-continental flavours, leading to a delicious cross-cultural repertoire of dishes.

When the British arrived on Indian shores, the Parsis adapted again by learning English, joining the Chinese trade, getting wealthy, and generally flourishing under an otherwise oppressive British Raj. Many Parsis were also employed as butlers in traditional English households, leading to Dhansak being introduced to them, and subsequently being found in many Anglo-Indian houses, and on the menus of British-Indian restaurants.

However, dhansak became popular only in the late 19th century because of the rapid industrialisation of Mumbai and Karachi. Parsis and Iranis set up little tea cafes (yes, that Irani cafe) selling tea, coffee, sodas, omelettes, and Dhansak to the local workforce.

Though these are the cultural background of the dish, we still don’t know how it really originated. Through the years the story has become a convoluted game of Parsi whispers. Our best guess is that the dish is associated with the gambhar — a ceremonial ritual of communal eating to mark the changing of the seasons. It is believed that everyone within a local village came together to cook and eat, celebrate the harvest of the season, and sacrifice dhansak as an offering.

But to the surprise of any non-Parsi, and to the chagrin of any Parsi, dhansak is not made on any happy occasions. Instead, it is saved for the fourth day of mourning, or just for a regular Sunday meal at granny’s home.

With every closely guarded family recipe varying slightly, dhansak tastes a little different every time you eat it, but it never lacks that signature depth of flavour, thanks to its blend of different lentils and vegetables.

Anyone who has had dhansak for Sunday lunch will tell you that nothing beats the nap you have after the heavy lunch and a light beer to go with it. But in case you don’t have your token Parsi friend on hand, here’s where you can get your fill of dhansak in Mumbai instead.

I. A Parsi Affair

Run by caterer Tanaz Godiwalla, the genius behind the food at any Parsi wedding or navjot (A Parsi coming of age ceremony). If you haven’t been, just know that she’s a prolific chef and her food is renowned within the community. Don’t worry if you don’t have a wedding invite — she has also started doing bulk orders. Grab your gang and get ordering from her asap. While you’re at it, you might as well try out the other dishes on her menu too.

Get in touch with them on their website here!

II. Katy’s Kitchen

Another exceptional home kitchen run by Parsi icon Katy Dalal’s family, serving up flavourful dhansak with pillowy soft brown rice and kebabs on the side. Top it off with a traditional lagan-nu-custard for dessert.

Have a look at their weekend menus on Instagram.

III. Ratan Tata Institute (RTI)

If you want to go really classic, RTI is the place to be. With small shops and counters all over Mumbai, RTI has been giving us super traditional Parsi food for decades now, and their food quickly reached legendary status. Be sure to book in advance though, because they sell out super quick!

Find out more about them here.

IV. SodaBottleOpenerWala

On the other end of the spectrum, go bougie with SodaBottleOpenerWala and try out their Parsi food with a twist. The dhansak, however, stays very true to its roots, thanks to chef Anahita Dhondy. And this one isn’t just for the Bombay folks! They have locations in four different cities — Bangalore, Hyderabad, Delhi NCR, and Mumbai.

Check out their Instagram for more details.

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