A Regional Food Lover's Guide To Mumbai's Best State Bhavans

Just when you think you’ve had about every possible style of meal in India, you’re hit with another irresistible option. We’re talking, of course, about the Bhavan. Touted as the markers (and makers) of their respective states, these fine establishments have long since brought regional food and their hospitality to our tastebuds, while also being gentle on our wallets. Unfortunately, Mumbai is a little lacking in the Bhavan department, with its neighbour Navi Mumbai having plenty more and with the capital, Delhi dominating the Bhavan scene. Despite our humble offerings, don’t be discouraged!

Bhavans have long since been a place of gathering for our communities, where people could appreciate the finest of each state while also indulging their cultural curiousity at the places around them. They are very often run by state governments, which is often a factor in why the costs are so low. A childhood in our city was probably incomplete without a good idli-sambhar combo at Arya Bhavan, or the fried rawas at Kerala Bhawan. Extremely hearty and spectacular in its simplicity, this is food by the communities for the communities, and we’re sure our list will have you craving our version of soul food.

I. Bhogdoi - Assam Bhavan

You might mistake this place for Udupi if you’re not careful. A tad basic, but we forgive it because its food is exquisite. Bhogdoi is on the first floor of the Assam Bhavan and is famed for its traditional Assamese fare. The room tariffs of their hotel wing are incredibly reasonable, so people from around the country sometimes make it their home for extended periods. It’s also well known for its book sale and an exhibition it has around the year.

What You’re Getting: Where to start? The chicken jeera zaluk in a cumin-pepper gravy is a popular thali, along with the katla sarson which is served in a mustard sauce. The zaluk gravy is dark and slighty sweet with a deep flavour of roasted jeera that hits the back of your tongue, while the chicken is just the right amount of tender. The katla sarson has a sharpness that is quite unsettling but once you get over it, you can’t help go for a second. The fish is fried before hand and added to the gravy, and the crispy skin is a perfect accompaniment to the vegetable sabzis it comes with. The Assamese thalis are the must-haves here though, with their Ilish fish fry thali, chicken curry thali and special veg thali being the most popular.

Cost: While the fish depends on the catch, their chicken curry costs a mere Rs. 100 and the Assamese Special Veg Thali is only Rs. 120

II. Goa Bhavan Canteen

Where: Juhu

While the Goa Bhavan is humble and its menu is simple. you’d be a fool not to go here if you’re in the vicinity. The service is impeccable, and it really is quite posh for a bhavan, but we’re not complaining. Have no fear, the ambiance is still like a typical canteen and the first thing that will hit you is the smell of perfectly seasoned seafood. (Vegetarians should probably give this one a miss)

What You’re Getting: Their thali comes with a fish fry that will transport you right to a shack in Goa. We recommend any of their seafood thalis as they are served with a succulent piece of fish, an amazing gravy, two hot chapatis, two vegetable sabzis and two small pieces of small fish and if that’s not enough they also include rice, kokam, sharbat and pickle. Talk about a meal fit for kings. Our recommendation? The Surmai Thali and the Prawns Thali, you cannot lose with these two.

Cost: The Surmai Thali sets you back Rs. 200 and the Prawn Thali is @ Rs. 150. We can’t believe these are Bombay prices.

III. Kerala House

Where: Vashi

If authentic Keralan style is what you crave, look no further than Kerala House. Heralded for its exceptional food, it is a hit among the native Malayalis and all food lovers across the city who enjoy a good old traditional Keralan-style meal. Although their menu is modest, you’re pretty spoiled for choice, especially during festivals like Vishu and Onam when the place takes on a really authentic atmosphere. Eating the Sadhya lunch on banana leaves will leave you feeling like a pro.

What You’re Getting: You’ll get their more traditional options like avial, kadala curry, karimeen and chicken chetinnad, but you may not even get to that thanks to the coma inducing fried fish and sambar. Their veg thali consists of papadum, rice, sambar and small servings of four different kinds of vegetables. Your carnivorous friends can get the non veg chicken fry, some rawas fry and curry and that’ll probably leave you full for a week.

Cost: They go based on a coupon system, but their prices on fish thalis vary.

IV. Odisha Bhavan

Where: Vashi

With almost spartan levels of cleanliness, we present a hostel canteen called the Odisha Bhavan, perfect for our germophobe friends. They have a huge dining room with laminated topped tables, plastic chairs, white walls and a TV in the corner for the easily distracted. You can buy fabrics and artefacts from them, for Odisha is well known for its Sambhalpuri sarees and handicrafts.

What You’re Getting: Simple home-styled thali that includes chinguri (prawns), macha (fish), and rohu (carp). This includes dal and sewain kheer that you will drain in a heart beat. Their other dishes like machha besara, chingudi mahura and raam rochak tarkari are amazing too.

V. Seven Springs

Where: Vashi

We can never get enough of Northeastern food, and Seven Springs make sure that we are never disappointed in that endeavour. Serving a mixture of Chinese and specialities of the the northeast, this joint is a small tiny place and is inexpensive as it is simple. It has a magnificent view if you take a table near the window.

What You’re Getting: Their pork curry is something like you’ve never seen from the Seven Sisters and is filled with juicy and fat pork ribs. It is marinated with tomato puree, chilli, soy sauce, lemon juice and roasted sesame oil which is smoked, grilled then baked. The pork is also cooked slowly in naga chilli powder, so we recommend the daring go for this as opposed to the spice-intolerant. Their chicken shumai dumplings are another wonder which are lightly spiced with a skin that is nice and thin and brings out the flavour of the chicken stuffing without feeling too rubbery.

Cost: A nice pork curry will set you back only about Rs. 180 which is astounding. Their Chicken Shumai dumplings go for about Rs. 185 a place.