A Humble Bottle Of Masala Holds The Essence Of East Indian Culinary Heritage

Every few months, without fail, the kitchen in our home transforms into a fiery battleground. Our househelp, sleeves rolled and armed with an assortment of spices, begins her ritual of drying and crushing chillies. The air thickens with a sharp, pungent aroma that creeps into every corner of the house. My eyes water, and my nose runs. Curiosity eventually got the better of me. I finally asked her, “Why do you go through this trouble every few months?” Her answer was immediate: “It’s for bottle masala.”

Bottle masala is a blend of spices, and the hallmark of Mumbai’s East Indian community. Crafted from 20 to 30 spices — sometimes even up to 60 ingredients — this artisanal spice mix has been at the heart of East Indian kitchens for centuries. The process is laborious, deeply communal, and rich with history.

The origins of bottle masala are tied to the East Indians’ identity, shaped by centuries of Portuguese and British influence blended with local Maharashtrian traditions. The spice mix is an amalgamation of flavours, techniques, and stories handed down through generations. This rich complexity makes bottle masala indispensable in East Indian cooking. It’s a versatile blend that works equally well in fiery pork vindaloos, mellow fish curries, and spiced vegetable dishes.

Each family’s bottle masala is distinct, with recipes varying not only from village to village but even household to household. The mix often includes Kashmiri chillies for their rich colour, along with cumin, fenugreek, sesame seeds, turmeric, nutmeg, and a host of lesser-known spices like dagad phool (lichen) and nagkesar (cobra saffron). Some recipes even incorporate roasted wheat or lentils, which act as natural thickeners in curries.

Making bottle masala is a seasonal ritual. The process traditionally begins in the scorching pre-monsoon months when ingredients can be sun-dried to perfection. Bedsheets and steel trays are spread across terraces. The spices are turned and stirred under the relentless sun, their oils intensifying and aromas blooming. Once dried, the spices are roasted. This step requires precision, as over-roasting can turn the spices bitter. After roasting, the ingredients are pounded using an okhli, a deep mortar carved from wood or stone. The pounding is a rhythmic, almost meditative process that can take hours. The resulting powder is sifted, pounded again, and finally packed.

Bottle masala gets its name from the way it’s traditionally stored in narrow-necked, coloured glass bottles — often beer or whiskey bottles. These bottles serve a practical purpose. Their tinted glass protects the masala from sunlight, preserving its colour and intense flavour for months. The narrow neck limits exposure to air, ensuring the spices remain fresh and aromatic. The tightly packed masala inside the bottle is compact and easily stored. The name also reflects the culture of reuse and ingenuity within the East Indian community. 

The making of bottle masala has long been a communal event, bringing together families, neighbours, and masalawaalis — women skilled in the art of spice blending. In villages and old neighbourhoods, masalawaalis would visit homes during the summer, offering their expertise in return for tea, meals, and a small fee. Their arrival transformed the household into a hive of activity. 

In Mumbai, the age-old practice of hand-making bottle masala is fading. Space is scarce, and time is a luxury. Families increasingly rely on mills to grind their spice blends, and the communal aspect of masala-making has diminished. Despite these challenges, bottle masala endures as a symbol of East Indian identity. For many, it’s an irreplaceable flavour enhancer, a culinary heirloom that evokes memories of home and heritage.

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