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If you walk down the decrepit alleys of Chembur today, you’ll come across several antiquated dwellings, shops with the word ‘barrack’ misspelt on the hoardings, and many shrines dedicated to the Sindhi God, Jhulelal. Along with a host of roadside eateries offering an enticing combination of crispy, hot puris served with dal – a famous Sindhi breakfast called ‘dal pakwan’ – and other Sindhi fares like Kadi, Aloo Tuk, and Sai Bhaji. This isn’t a mere coincidence but the result of India’s severed past that left many with no choice but to start over.
In a post-partition India, many people who were forced to flee from the Sindh region in present-day Pakistan came and sought refuge in cities of Thane and Mumbai, particularly Chembur area, where a huge portion of land next to Bombay Presidency Golf Club was allocated for building refugee camps. As more and more Sindhis began to settle down, they brought with them the gift of undiscovered cultural nuances like the concept of a sleeveless blouse, a unique business-mindedness, and most importantly – the practice of eating out.
Soon enough, natives, who’d so far only gorged on Maharashtrian delicacies like missal pav and puran poli, were now discovering afternoons of warm, moist rice mixed with Sindhi Kadhi and Bhugal Bhee Alu (a lotus stem preparation). A culinary adventure that started way back in the aftermath of 1947 has lasted to date, resulting in a number of authentic Sindhi food joints run by descendants themselves. Today, the Camp area in Chembur is dotted with such eateries. From fresh tandoori meat to a variety of Sindhi dal preparations, Chembur, in many ways, has morphed into a mecca of home-cooked Sindhi food in Mumbai. Here are some places where you can get a taste of the cuisine and decide for yourself.
I. Jhama Sweets
Where: 2, Atur Park, Sion Trombay Road, Chembur, Mumbai
In 1950, a Sindhi refugee named Jhamamal Lulla was forced to uproot himself and relocate to the Indian soil. In trying to rebuild a new life, which would inevitably be quite different from the one he left behind in Karachi, he set up Jhama Sweets in Chembur camp area. Today, Jhama sweets is a chain of mithai shops sprawling across the length and breadth of Mumbai, offering a delightful variety of authentic Sindhi sweets and snacks like Sindhi Pattice and Dal Pakwan. The legend goes that in the 60s, stalwart Raj Kapoor had sweets from Jhama shipped to his friends living in Russia. Apparently, the Kapoors, even today, regularly order sweets from Jhama.
Despite having undergone its fair share of commercialisation, Jhama has managed to retain its Sindhi culture. The gulab jamun here is still one of the best in the city. Every year during Cheti Chand, the Sindhi New Year, Jhama dishes out delectable Sindhi snacks every Sunday.
HG Recommends: We’d recommend trying out their sweets, especially the Sev Barfi which is a traditional Sindhi delicacy made with mawa and sev and topped with dry fruits.
Cost: Rs. 150 for light evening snacks for two.
Where: Main Road, Chembur Camp, Chembur, Mumbai
With its seating space limited to a few plastic stools and assorted meat skewers on display, Gopal’s is a typical street food joint serving an array of chicken and mutton dishes. For the residents of Chembur, the grilled meat aromas emanating from Gopal’s is an old but familiar one. Although essentially Mughlai, the meat here is prepared in an authentic Sindhi style. The magic, after all, is in the marinades. From Chicken Potta to Gura Kapura Mix, everything is served fresh off the tandoor along with green and red chutneys. The biryani here comes with a fiery gravy and isn’t dry like your regular biryani. Mostly preferred for home-delivery or takeaway, Gopal’s food is infamous for its searing spice levels and is definitely not for the weak-hearted. And if you don’t have anything better to do, you can always drop by and watch them grill your order to perfection.
Hg Recommends: Try their “sandwich”, which is basically pav served with a cutlet and a spicy onion gravy.
Cost: An evening of scrumptious meat hogging at Rs. 300 for two.
III. Sindhi Tadka
Where: Home Delivery
Sindhi Tadka, Madhu Jagtiani’s home kitchen based out of Chembur is only a year old, but it has taken its scrumptious food to every little corner of Mumbai. Her commendable cooking skills and an aspiration to introduce people to the specialities of home-cooked Sindhi food is what motivated her to start her own venture; the feedback and response from her loyalists are what kept her going. While Phote mutton and Phote chicken are some of her hot-selling signature dishes, her Kadi chawal and Besani Bhaji are equally delicious. Or even aloo tuk — six potato slices deep-fried and topped with dry masalas. A pocket-friendly place that serves large portions, Madhu also takes big food orders 24 hours in advance. For other meals, just a couple of hours is enough.
HG Recommends: Try the Kaju Cake and the Besan Laddoo in Ghee – a chef’s speciality.
Cost: Rs 500 for two.
IV. Vig
Where: CG Road, Chembur Camp, Chembur East, Chembur, Mumbai
Creamy dhaba-style lassi served with a dollop of malai, crispy dal pakwan that is bound to get over by noon every day, and delicious cutlets stuffed with chana dal — such is the charm of Vig restaurant in Chembur. Currently run by the third-generation owner, Pravin Arora, Vig is known for its timeless homemade recipes handed down by Pravin’s mother and executed perfectly every day for the past 5 decades. Their samosas are served with mouthwatering Sindhi chole. Unlike other restaurants, Vig’s Sindhi cuisine is available since 6.30 am in the morning. In fact, people even start queuing up. While the ambience isn’t the best, it’s the quality, consistency, and taste of the food that keeps the customers coming back for more.
HG Recommends: End your meal with a tall glass of Pudina chaas. We’ve heard it’s great for digestion.
Cost: A delicious meal for two for Rs. 250 only.
Where: Opposite Bezzolla Complex, next to Poonam petrol pump Suman Nagar, Sion Trombay Road, Chembur, Mumbai
Probably the only restaurant on our list that pairs alcohol with authentic Sindhi cuisine, Duma Dum Mast Kalandar follows recipes handed down by the older generation of the community, specifically the grandmothers. The food here is slowly cooked in earthen pots, leaving your palette with that distinct smoky flavour. Moreover, the staff cooks food in pure ghee only—so you’re guaranteed that home cooked taste! Catering to the vegetarians and non-vegetarians both, Duma Dum Mast Kalandar is usually swarming with people and has two levels of seating to accommodate for the same. Their Sukko Teevan (pan-fried mutton chaap) is an absolute winner as far as their non-veg menu is considered. Their menu offers a range of not just Sindhi cuisine but also Punjabi food.
HG Recommends: Before diving into your meal, don’t forget to ask for ‘Thadal’, a refreshing Sindhi drink made from watermelon and dry fruits.
Cost: A wholesome Sindhi meal at Rs. 700 for two.
VI. Lakhumal Kundanmal Farsan Mart
Where: Doctor Chotiram Gidwani Road, Near Sattu Sweets, Chembur Camp, Chembur (East), Mumbai
This eatery has a mix of both Punjabi and Sindhi cuisine. Almost every item on their menu list has been a crowd favourite for the past 30 years. Their traditional Sindhi items like bhajiya and tikki truly bring in the wholesome Sindhi flavour. This hole-in-the-wall joint is quite likely to go unnoticed so we’d suggest asking around a bit, in case you find yourself lost in the middle of Chembur. For freshly prepared snacks and a lively atmosphere, visit Lakhumal Kundanmal Farsan Mart in the evening before 6 PM because after that they’re most likely to run out of their best fare.
HG Recommends: Try their piping hot sanna and mirchi bhajiyas.
Representational feature image courtesy of Juss by Sindhful via Zomato.
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