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Oh, Kolkata! Thy second name is nostalgia!
Kolkata is a city defined by its dualities, where the past and the present exist in constant dialogue. Trams still rattle past gleaming steel-and-glass towers, and colonial-era buildings house chic contemporary cafés. It is a place where history comes alive, entwined in the hustle and bustle of everyday life, office work, social gatherings, and, above all, food. One of the most vivid expressions of this continuity is found in Dacres Lane: a narrow back alley in the heart of the city that has remained one of Kolkata's most enduring and endearing culinary crossroads.
A Walk Down Dacres Lane
Tucked behind the stately colonial facades of Kolkata's Dalhousie Square, and originally named after Philip Milner Dacres, a British bureaucrat who served as the Collector of Calcutta from 1773 to 1774, Dacres Lane is a narrow, chaotic street that looks like it hasn't changed much since the British were still calling Calcutta the Empire's Second City. A strange and sublime slice of colonial Calcutta seemingly frozen in time, Dacres Lane once catered to the white- and blue-collar workers employed in the nearby Writer's Building and other colonial-era administrative buildings, offices, and businesses. Over the decades, these lunch stalls have fed generations of office-goers, journalists, college students, and intrepid epicureans seeking a glimpse, and a bite, of a bygone Calcutta.
By all accounts, Dacres Lane should have long disappeared in the age of quick-commerce and food delivery apps. Its stalls are soot-streaked, the hand-painted signs are fading, and its plastic chairs and wooden benches are perpetually lopsided. Maybe it will in the near future. And yet, this unassuming lane continues to feed hundreds of Kolkatans and tourists each day with astonishing consistency, dishing out a kind of proletarian comfort food that has become a cornerstone of the city's culinary heritage. Some say this is the best street food in Kolkata. Others simply call it lunch. This is fast food in true Kolkata fashion.
What To Eat And Drink In Dacres Lane
The most famous haunt in Dacres Lane is Chitto Babur Dokan, a heritage joint established in 1947 by Shrish Ranjan Roy, who named the shop after his eldest son, Chitto Ranjan Roy. Still run by his descendants, this iconic eatery serves what locals refer to simply as 'continental' — think a hearty serving of slow-cooked white chicken stew, buttered toast with a sprinkle of freshly-ground black pepper, and batter-fried Fish Kabiraji — the last vestiges of British cuisine that have gone full Bengali.
There are also well-known joints like Apanjan, Shyam Babur Tea Stall and several other fast food joints, snacks-and-sweets shops all along the lane serving an eclectic mix of ghugni or stewed chickpeas, telebhaja or deep-fried finger food as well as fresh fruits and juices.
When To Go & What To Know
Dacres Lane is not for the faint of heart or the overly hygienic. Expect elbow-to-elbow seating, dogs napping under tables, and napkins that are mostly theoretical. But also expect food that has survived, and thrived, through decades of political upheaval, economic reform, and culinary trends that came and went like the monsoon. The best time to visit is on a weekday afternoon between 12:30 and 2:30 pm. This is when the lane is in full swing.
Skip breakfast, carry enough small change, and bring tissues. Or better yet, lean into the chaos: eat with your hands; order indiscriminately; ask your neighbor what they're having. And whatever you do, don't miss the lebu cha (lemon tea) served in a tiny clay bhar that you smash on the pavement once you're done — or don't! I'm getting dramatic here, but that's the besotted Kolkatan in me.
Insider Tip And A Bonus Recipe:
At Chitto Babur Dokan, specifically ask for the white chicken stew with a chicken thigh. Trust me on this.
For those who can't make it to Kolkata and try this slow-cooked delight, here's a step-by-step guide to making Kolkata-style white chicken stew at home by the brilliant people at Bong Eats. It's the real deal:
