Paro: Inside A Jaipur Bar Where Rajasthani Hospitality Meets Modern Indian Mixology

Straddling the opposing sides of a culturally rooted city that co-exist and complement each other, the old and the new, Paro is a Modern Indian bar in Jaipur that is quietly mixing things up. Though it is located far from the maddening crowd of Cocktail Rooms of Bangalore, and away from the tropical touristy appeal of Goa, Paro is a bar that has dug its heels into its geographic and cultural influences and created an experience that cut through the noise and made its mark nationally. Having done multi-city takeovers with their signature cocktails and Indian fares elevated as bar bites, Paro has a menu that is rooted yet original. More importantly, it is worth going out of your way for, if you’d like to experience Jaipur beyond its Lonely Planet recommended version. 

When I was invited to visit Paro, the official pouring partners for the Indian Polo Awards and also the recent host of the first Superkicks event in Jaipur, I wasn’t sure what to expect. On my previous visit to Jaipur, I had had the standard tourist experience - I lived in an old haveli, walked through Bapu and Johri Bazar, and visited the palaces, forts and museums that it had to offer. Even back then, at Jaipur Haveli BnB, I had experienced the Rajasthani hospitality that many speak of, up close and personal. The rotis kept coming for breakfast, and there was always a plate of fresh mango to go with it, as if I was visiting a loved one’s home. This second visit to Jaipur was just the same - there was always more to do, more to see, more to drink and more to eat. The founding team of Paro, led by Ronak Maheshwari, Ujjwal Gupta, Chef Ayush Khandelwal and supported by their wonderful PR Consultant Shiksha, housed me within the property, a rare chance that is only made available to their exclusive guests, and told me the story of Paro from the ground up. 

I was welcomed to Paro with their Jamun G&T and a sumptuous plate of Mushroom Galouti Kebab, after my long flight with a major layover, despite it being the end of the night. Located on Mirza Ismail Road, near the Panch Bhatti (five lamps) intersection, this locale was eerily quiet as I sat on the rooftop and savoured my midnight drink. But as daylight broke through, I woke up to the resounding pulse of modern Jaipur. And I knew, while my previous visit had shown me the charm of Old Jaipur or what the locals refer to as ‘the walled city’ or ‘Shehar’, this visit to Paro showed me its burgeoning side. It is set in the heart of Jaipur and exudes a lot of heart, too, especially when you are taken through it by one of the founders. 

Flanked by the age-old Raj Mandir Cinema on one side and facing the Jindal Ammunitions building, Paro is housed in a building of veritable history. So even before we started talking about food and drinks, Ronak took me through the terracotta-hued property, and told me of how it was once a pre-independence trading hub, and later a residence with over 15 rooms to one of the reputed families here, whose descendant was a good friend of his. Ronak showed me pictures of what the property looked like decades ago, as well as what it looked like when they acquired it. Slowly but surely, the Paro team worked to redo it in a way that kept its essence the same, but elevated it to be a modern Indian bar. They kept most of the original structure intact as they were load-bearing pillars, but knocked out walls as and where needed to create a mostly open floor plan. The facade has already remained the same as years gone by, but now bearing the Paro name, both in English and Hindi. Interestingly, the lime plaster and techniques used to refurbish the bar are one that mimics the quintessential monument of the city - the Hawa Mahal and were done by the descendants of the karigars who worked on the original structure. The Marble flooring of Paro is the same kind that was used to build the Taj Mahal; the Makrana variant sourced from the locale of Rajasthan, it draws its name from. In addition to the main inside seating on the first floor, the verandah, and the rooftop, there is a dedicated space for big groups that encapsulates all the charm of the bar, while providing them with some privacy - the perfect setting for an evening of revelry over drinks and bites with friends or family when in Jaipur. 

During the day, natural light streams in through Paro’s transparent roof and the trinkets stored in cupboards of yore dot the verandah on the first floor, ask you to linger a little longer. If you head to the rooftop, the flickering diyas and rousing music lightens one up, setting a mood that is uniquely its own. Every intentional detail that has gone into reviving this 80+ year old building into a modern bar demands a feature that would far exceed my word limit, so I will segue into talking about the biggest highlight of Paro - the hospitality. Usually, I would have referred to them as food and drinks, but at Paro, the experience doesn’t neatly fit into those simple categories. It was a way of being hosted. 

The team at Paro has created an experience that proudly celebrates the Rajasthani way of hospitality - warm, inviting, and always asking you to leave a little room for later; for another drink, another small bite, another sweet treat - or probably all three. 

The iconic Dal Bhati at Paro has been given new life as Dal Bhati Bites here, made into a savoury tart of sorts. I was surprised to be served up an innovation that I can’t believe South Indians somehow had never thought of till now - Dosa Onion Rings, served with a side of potato masala, and chutney. Both crispy yet light, this was a snack that I made a mental note to try making at home. From Rai Mirch Ki Broccoli to Paav Baaji Rolls, Truffle Mushroom Galouti to Papad Samplers, the vegetarian appetisers are a world unto themselves at Paro. But as a non-vegetarian, the dish that truly knocked me off my feet was the Pulled Lamb Ghee Roast, which was described to me so delectably by Ronak that I had a hard time believing that he was a vegetarian who had never tried it out. The perfect dinner to end a night of drinks, conversations and laughter aplenty, the Lamb Ghee Roast was succulent and flavourful in a way that remains fresh in my mind, even a month after returning. But suffice to say, the dishes at Paro are those that lean fully into the founding principle of elevating traditional Indian fares in a modern way - from its many corners - all done to complement one's choice of drinks. 

Last but definitely not least are the cocktails at Paro. Whether it is the Jamun G&T that I was welcomed with, featuring jamun crush, fresh mint, gin and tonic, or the Saanjh - a theatrical cocktail of blue pea infused gin, rosemary cordial, and tonic water, there is story and thought that has gone into each drink. Ujjwal Gupta, one of the founding partners, is a passionate mixologist, and the love for original flavours with a compelling story for each drink is decipherable from a mere glance at their menu. I refer to the Saanjh as being theatrical, because it is served with a smoking sprig of rosemary, and the yellow hue of the cordial and the purple of the gin swirl together with a stir that mimics the Jaipur sunset it is named after. The Shehar is another drink on the menu - a rose-infused fin, paired with homemade grapefruit cordial and tonic water. A nuanced take on the classic G&T, perhaps, but it is the drink that made me realise how the people of Paro, their friends and all of Jaipur talked about their city. There is a quiet reverence to the way the old part of Jaipur is referred to as the walled city or the Shehar. 

The people of Paro, and by extension their patrons, whom I ended up meeting during my time in Jaipur, understand the legacy and culture of hospitality that they are carrying forth. This is not something that was designed to show me as a visiting journalist. It was rather the air with which the team opened up not just Paro, but also their other ventures across Jaipur, like the everyday Italian Nonna style restaurant/Bar Opera, and their pure vegetarian, artisanal coffee place Carbon. In interacting with the many people that frequent these spaces, I was offered a slice into the life of modern Jaipur; holding steady to the old and the new, rooted in their presence but making their presence known with creative collaborations across the state and beyond, and always going the extra mile to make their guests feel at home. While the trip was intended to show me the beauty of Paro, in all their heartfelt effort, the founders showed me what Jaipur and its people are. It's a place where craft is an everyday affair and being hospitable is woven into their identity.

With their eye on taking Paro to new heights, the team has been engaging in more collaborations, bar takeovers, and receiving a lot of attention for the same. But ultimately, Paro is a Modern Indian bar that is a destination for those in Jaipur and those who visit Jaipur too, to have an elevated drinking and dining experience with an Indian flair that feels as iconic and regal as its name. 

You can follow Paro here.

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