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Up in the pristine hills of the Himalayas, a Dutchman Chris Zandee has an artisanal cheese factory in Pahalgam. His unique business weaves in his love for cheese making with a plan that is wholesome for the local inhabitants and nature.
You know of Cheddar, Mozzarella, Brie, and Camembert, but did you know that the Gujjars and Bakarwals of the Himalayas boast their own brand of delicious cheese? Who knew that India’s tryst with the cheeses went beyond Paneer! Also known as Doodh Roti and Kalari, these cream pancakes are wood-fired, and either eaten with a bread like kulcha or by itself with spices and chutneys. Similar to the characteristics and texture of the popular Italian cheese, it was christened the ‘mozzarella of Kashmir’. What started off as a cheap local snack went on to be produced and packaged for the urban consumer while containing the essence of the communities that produced them. You can find it’s various versions in regions of Jammu and Kashmir.
Chris, along with his wife Kamala, wanted a business model with meaning, one that is sustainable and also supports the local community in any way possible. They tapped into a pool of about 150 Gujjars for milk to produce the cheeses and makes sure they’re adequately compensated. Zandee also helps the Gujjars increase and stabilise milk production during winter times, as well as maintain the health of their cattle.
“We believe in our product and in contributing back to the society we are part of. As for Hassan and the other employees of Himalayan Cheese, they are now looked up to not only by hundreds of other Gujjars but also by the Kashmiris for effectively running a business and that too based on the values of fair trade, where the benefits are shared by all,” he tells Forbes India.
The major operations of the factory, as well as the cheesemaking, are overlooked by three Gujjars trained by Zandee — Gulaam Hassan Khatana, Shabbir Ahmed and Amna Gorshi. Zandee tells Forbes that they’re looked up to by their fellow Gujjars for successfully running a business, especially one that practices fair-trade. Zandee believes that when the business is profitable enough and they can move on, it would be well taken care of and would continue to add value to the community.
Other than making a variety of Gouda, from walnut to garlic-nettle flavoured, Himalayan Cheese is also one of the first to vacuum-package Kalari so that it can be enjoyed by those of us who can’t make a trip to the hills.
They ship to most pin codes across India. You can order their products here.
Feature Image Courtesy: Himalayan Cheese
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