As a student living away from home, I often find myself reflecting on my cultural roots and the heritage I left behind in India. Growing up, traditional clothing and crafts were never considered ‘cool’ or “young”. We steered as far away from them as possible, only to be forced into itchy, uncomfortable Kurtis every time a festival rolled around. 

 Moving to another country was what it took for me to introspect and appreciate my culture for what it truly is: a lesson in creativity, craftsmanship and sustainability. Over the past few years, I have found myself reaching for the same kurtis I once despised, and beginning to cherish the generational jewellery my mother and grandmother passed down to me, looking for the stories and traditions each piece carries. 

Now, as I delve deeper into the world of fashion, I see more and more homegrown brands embracing ancient traditions and practices to build modern, sustainable brands and putting India back on the global fashion map. Taking pride in their vast heritage various brands are now exploring different sustainable practices — from growing the fibres themselves to plant-based dyes and prints.

Here is a roundup of some Homegrown brands harnessing the forces of nature to create clean, planet-friendly fashion:

Established during the pandemic by Mridu Mehra, a NIFT Mumbai graduate hailing from Kumaon, Kokūn aspires to be akin to nature’s cocoons, embodying transformation and growth. The founder and textile designer runs the label’s sampling unit from her own home in Mukteshwar, using locally foraged wild turmeric, rosemary, Himalayan Rhubarb, nettle and Hemp. Staying true to her brand, Mehra also uses her own kitchen waste like pomegranate, onion peels and tea alongside hibiscus, butterfly pea flowers and roses, which are tended to by the designer in her garden.

Kokūn strives to be entirely zero-waste and circular by crafting all their designs on a made-to-order model. In order to maintain exclusivity while remaining sustainable, the label purchases all its fabrics in their korra or raw form and dyes them in-house using natural dyes. Each Kokūn garment is made to order by the rural women of Raghurampur, in Uttar Pradesh with natural dyes derived from Indigo, Sappan wood, Tesu flowers, Madder roots, Neem leaves and hibiscus.

Follow Kokūn here.

Derived from the Sanskrit word for ‘essence of nature’ or ‘healing plant’ Oshadi (pronounced aw-sha-dhi) was founded as a womenswear label by Nishanth Chopra in 2016. Designed to give back more than it takes, the farmer-first model prioritises improving the biodiversity of its environment and a fair wage to the local employees.  The label’s ethos is represented by a 250-acre regenerative cotton and indigo farm on the outskirts of Erode, Tamil Nadu. 

With a vision to “re-ruralise” fashion, the brand employs ancient sustainable techniques and ayurvedic agriculture that have been used by farmers and artisans in the village for years. Oshadi unites these age-old skills with alternative materials and a contemporary aesthetic to create collections that are sourced, spun, naturally dyed, woven, printed and sewn in the villages neighbouring their farm.

Follow Oshadi here.

This Nepalese brand creates one-of-a-kind eco-printed garments using local fabrics like cotton, hemp, bamboo and silk. Designer and founder Meena Gurung launched BORA Studio in 2017 with a vision to build an environmentally responsible slow fashion brand in Nepal. Gurung is deeply involved in each step of the process, from sourcing small batch materials from local vendors to dyeing, cutting and sewing sample pieces at her Kathmandu studio. Once the samples are finalised, they are sent to local tailors near her home, who produce the garments in batches as small as ten per tailor.

The process of eco-dying is long and tedious. The ancient technique involves transferring colours from plant material to paper or fabric through steaming or boiling. BORA Studio uses local flora such as eucalyptus, blackberry leaves, roses, and rose leaves alongside avocados and onions to create vibrant naturally dyed scarves and kimonos. 

Follow BORA Studio here.

Founded during the pandemic by university classmates Drishti and Rashmick, Lafaani is built on a foundation of 4 sustainable design principles: Design for Longevity, Craft Collaborations, Multi-functionality, and Upcycling. Rooted in Urdu, Lafaani translates to “immortality.’ Staying true to its name, the label produces simple and timeless pieces that are designed to last a lifetime. Lafaani’s fabrics are all hand-spun on an Ambar Charkha using indigenous landraces of Kala and Brown cotton from the states of Gujarat, Karnataka and Maharashtra. Every garment is made to order and customisable, with a minute attention to detail, ensuring it is cherished and cared for by the customer.

 In collaboration with grassroots organisations, Lafaani employs artisans who use carefully measured natural pigments like myrobalan, indigo, and turmeric to pomegranate peel, madder, and catechu to produce fabrics of various colours and textures. The brand’s ethos is embodied by its signature Kantha stitch, an age-old style of hand embroidery that reflects the values of minimising waste and respecting limited resources. The versatility of the stitch also enables it to seamlessly blend into different designs, allowing the label to produce sustainable and timeless pieces.

Follow Lafaani here. 

If you enjoyed reading this, here's more from Homegrown:

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