In the small village of Nirona, Kutch, a beautiful traditional art form endures in the face of adversity. Rogan art, a more than 400-year-old textile painting art, is among India's least known and most complex crafts, mastered by some artists today. By applying paint based on castor oil, metal stylus, and freehand accuracy, Rogan art gives fabric shape in the form of intricate art forms, integrating Persian influences with the rich folk art of Gujarat.
Once reserved for royal dresses and bridal trousseaux, the beautiful craft was nearing extinction until one family, the Khatris, took up the challenge to save and revive this rare art form. Today, Rogan art is making its mark in modern fashion, across both museum shows and international collaborations in design, reaffirming that art can endure despite the passage of time.
The term 'Rogan' comes from Persian roots, meaning oil-based, referring to the distinctive paint used in this art. The process is thought to have been born in Persia (now Iran) before arriving in India's Kutch area more than 400 years ago. Unlike most other textile arts, which require weaving or embroidery, Rogan art is painted completely by hand, without any pre-drawn lines, stencils, or sketches.
It takes skill, patience, and profound artistic instinct to create a single work of Rogan art. In contrast to the conventional painting process, which involves the use of brushes, Rogan artists work with a humble metal stylus (kalam) and their naked hands to apply the paint. The process starts with the preparation of Rogan paint, which consists of castor oil boiled for 12-14 hours locally and allowed to thicken into a resin-like sticky texture. Natural colour pigments are mixed in order to produce the distinct bright colours of Rogan paintings — red, yellow, blue, green, and white. The artist dips the stylus into this heavy paint, drawing out a thread-like strand of paint, twisting and maneuvering it carefully above the fabric without ever actually touching the fabric.
This creates the possibility for smooth, organic patterns to be created. Half of the pattern is painted in, and then the fabric is folded to achieve a perfect mirror image. Once the primary design is transferred, small details are filled in freehand, finishing off the delicate masterpiece.
Now, there is only one family in India that continues to practice Rogan art, the Khatri family of Nirona village. Originally part of a vibrant community of artisans, the Khatris are now the only keepers of this dying art. Abdul Gafur Khatri, the most celebrated Rogan artist, has spent his life working to preserve the craft, even when he lost hope in the 1980s when orders all but disappeared.
It is now being integrated into modern design, from sarees and dupattas, where folk motifs are combined with modern sensibilities, to wall art and tapestries that introduce complex folk patterns into modern interior spaces. It has also crept into scarves and accessories, bringing this scarce art form to the masses outside Gujarat.
In the age of rapid fashion and factory-produced fabrics, Rogan art stands as a reflection of India's long-lasting expertise. The handwork, the attention to detail, and the rich cultural history infused into every piece are qualities that make it a craft worthy of protection.
The solution to keeping Rogan art and other heritage crafts alive is recognition, patronage, and adaptation. Through the integration of Rogan art into modern design and the payment of fair wages to artisans, this ancient craft can flourish beyond museum walls and become an integral part of modern design.
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