Dinner at a South Indian restaurant has been my family’s go-to on nights no one felt like cooking, we felt like a change from ghar ka khaana, or found ourselves entertaining our NRI relatives. Delhi’s Sagar Ratna in Defence Colony is always packed, all day, on Sundays and I remember that deciding where to park was almost as difficult as trying to finish their four-foot-long Family Dosa (a delicious pursuit nonetheless). Over the years we branched out and, while Sagar Ratna was always a good option (especially since there’s an outlet almost everywhere, guaranteeing easy accessibility), we developed a certain fondness for Sarvana Bhavan, Naivedyam, and the legendary Andhra Bhawan Canteen as well. My favourite thing about this fare is that it can be dressed up and down–all the fixings of a fancy meal, it can so easily transform into comfort food as well (curd rice can cure most things for me from a bad cold to a broken heart). Its versatility, clean flavours and surprising lightness make its appeal quite universal in my humble opinion. However, this appeal manifests in many avatars and restaurant recommendations–every Delhite will point you in the direction of their favourite spot for a dose of dosas, and opinion is always divided and varied.
So when a group of particularly picky eaters met for a chance meal at Carnatic Cafe in GK-II’s M-Block Market, there was little hope for a unanimous verdict on the food. And I’ll say this, we disagreed on quality of service, ambience, and variety in the menu but their Malleswaram 18th Cross Dosa unified every diner on our table, still licking the podi off our fingers as we settled the bill. And so far? I haven’t met a single person that didn’t enjoy the home-style South Indian food that Carnatic Cafe serves, not with a flourish, but modesty and lots of love.
The GK-II outlet is actually their second in Delhi; it was their first in New Friends Colony that had the city’s foodies hankering for a taste of their signature fluffy dosa, allegedly named after the street where the owner Pavan Jambagi lives in Bengaluru. The latter is a lot swankier but the basic design elements and, most importantly, the flavours are consistent across both outlets. Step into Carnatic Cafe, but pay attention to the blackboard right outside announcing the day’s specials. Local paper art wall hangings, dried maize hanging from the roof, wooden seating, and the sound of the shehnai will be the backdrop of your meal, instantly transporting you from a posh Delhi neighbourhood to a quaint village. I prepare for my meal in one of two ways. If it’s cold outside, I order the Rasam and dunk pieces of papad into it but, during Delhi’s scorching summer months, there’s nothing quite as refreshing as their Majjige or Masala Buttermilk.
I find myself gravitating to their selection of dosas and, truth be told, I’ve never been able to convince myself to order anything else. The Malleswaram 18th Cross dosa, served with the standard ‘orange, white and green’ chutneys and a bowl of flavourful sambhar is a revelation–crispy on the outside but so wonderfully fluffy at the same time. Nine special dosas on the menu, I also really enjoy the Bombat. A thicker variant, this is smeared with a ‘slightly spicy cinnamon garlic chutney’ and lots of white butter for a gastronomical experience that activates every single tastebud and leaves you wanting more. Dessert’s on the menu and, for those looking to try something different, the Obbattu rises to the occasion. A South Indian take on the pancake, this is filled with jaggery and cardamom, and is served with slightly-sweetened milk.
I’m usually quite happy to end my meal with their strong filter kaapi, that keeps me awake till I make it back home for a well-deserved nap.
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