There are few words more comforting to a Parsi than the phrase ‘Jamvo Chalo Ji’. The community has (rightly) earned a reputation for being irrepressible foodies and more importantly, pretty great cooks. Though there are plenty of wonderful Parsi restaurants across Maharashtra, to actually get a taste of the true essence of Parsi cuisine, you have to travel back to where it all began, Udvada.
This quiet Gujarat town is known to the community the world over as the birthplace of the Zoroastrian religion in India. It was the spot where immigrants from Iran first landed on Indian shores in an attempt to escape the tyranny of the Muslim Rule in then Persia. They arrived in multiple batches which later became the cultural segregation between Parsis and Iranis, the Iranis, having arrived later retained more of the Persian influence in their cuisine while the Parsis adapted more fluidly to the Indian palate.
Today, in this the religious and cultural hub of the community, food still plays an integral role in defining their social identity. Most Parsi visitors to the town come to pay homage to the country’s oldest Atash Behram (fire temple) where the fire has been burning continuously for over 1250 years. Though unfortunately, the temple is off-limits to people outside the religion, there is still plenty to see, and more importantly, eat. This is the perfect getaway for any hardwired foodie as there’s not much going on and your entire day can be devoted to sampling new fare (and mid-meal naps of course). To make it easier, we’ll be your gastronomic guide to make sure you don’t miss a single thing.
Ahura
The simplest way to get to Udvada is by train but if you do decide to make it a road trip, we definitely reccommend an early morning stop at Ahura. This highway pit-stop is about two hours out of Udvada itself and has some quintessential breakfast fare to get you in the mood. They have many South Indian and Western options available, but start with Parsi staples like Poro (Parsi style omelette) Akuri (scrambled eggs similar to bhurji) or Salli per Eedu (Spiced eggs on potato straws) and a steaming cup of pudina chai (mint tea) to warm you up.
Parsi da Dhaba
By the time you reach Udvada itself, it’s likely that you’ll be yearning for second breakfast. Stop by Parsi da Dhaba for a pick me up of Aleti Paleti (a toss up of chicken livers and gizzards) or Kurchan (a mix of goat organs) with fresh chapatis. If offal isn’t your cup of tea they have a wide array of less daunting dishes, but whatever you do choose, remember to order up a side of their freshly baked pavs.
Globe Hotel
If you’ve planned your trip right, you should already be staying at this quaint hotel that’s been around since 1924, but even if you’re not, it’s definitely worth dropping by for lunch or dinner. Order up a boi (a marinated fried fish), some Russian chicken pattice and some Salli Murghi (chicken curry with potato straws) and round it off with pulao dal for a full meal.
Ashishvangh Hotel
This sea-view establishment is a little bit of a drive, but the view makes it all worth it. As you sit and watch the waves lap at the black sand beaches indulge in some very traditional food. Dhandar patio (yellow dal with sweet and sour tomato prawns), tareli macchi (fried fish) and a good helping of dried Bombil. Dessert lovers should try the Ravo (a sweet semolina pudding with dried fruit and nuts).
Dastoor Baug Dharamsala
Owner, Perviz Rabadi likes to be informed about guests in advance but if you do get a spot here skip their westernised offerings of pizza and burgers and try her wonderful home-style meals. A favourite is always Patra ni Macchi (fish coated in green chutney and then steamed).
Sohrabji Jamshedji Sodawaterwalla Dharamsala
I’m sure you’ve all been wondering about the lack of Dhansak going on, the most widely renowned Parsi creation, well here is where to get it. The succulent slow-cooked mutton falls off the bone and the thick dal with fragrant brown rice is more than a meal in itself but maybe order up some chicken farcha (fried chicken) to nibble while you wait. Food coma guaranteed.
Mawa Cakes and Batasas
By time time you wake up from your post-lunch nap, you’ll probably be feeling a bit peckish, you’re in Udvada so this signals time for afternoon tea. Stock up on soft, sweet Mawa cakes and crunchy batasa biscuits from Irani bakery to tide you over til dinner, for the true blue experience, drop a few batasas into your tea and watch as they slowly sop up all the goodness before eating.
Mango Ice-Cream
Of all the iconic sights and sounds of Udvada, there is none so beloved than the gentle ‘tring’ of an approaching bicycle (though rumour has it he’s upgraded to a rickshaw, but we’ll let poetic license win here), because that signals one thing, ice-cream. Made with seasonal fruit, milk fresh from the local dairy cows and then hand-churned. In the sweltering Gujarat summers, there’s no more welcome sight.
Kolah Pickles
Parsis are serious about their pickles. It’s an integral part of most meals and there’s a pickle for every occasion, and Kolah’s is the definitive place to get them. Whether it’s lagan nu acchar (a sweet pickle usually served at weddings), beautiful sour mango pickle or the slightly pungent but delicious dried bombil pickle, you’re going to want to sample a range. So stock up, cos they basically last forever.
Neera and Tadi
This local brew is well-known in the area but you might have to hunt a bit to find a seller, or better yet, just inquire at your hotel, they’ll probably have some tie-ups on hand. Neera is made from the sap of the Palmyra tree and is tapped early in the morning for a sweet refreshing drink, however as it’s allowed to sit during the day in an earthen pot, it begins to ferment and fizzle into a potent alcohol called Tadi.
Raspberry
No list about Parsi food is complete without a mention of Raspberry. This almost sickly sweet soda is a favourite among people of all ages and its not uncommon to see three generations at a table all sipping greedily at their Raspberry’s. Though it’s a little hard to find in other cities, almost every establishment in Udvada has some of these lying around, so grab one of these magenta beauties and get ready to be transported back to your childhood.
Doodh na Puff
Part scientific experiment, part delicious bevarage, doodh na puff toes the line between matters. Made of full fat milk and sugar, it’s hung overnight and in the morning churned, then laced with cardomom and nutmeg. It takes on a frothy, airy consistency and is scooped into glasses and eating it is like inhaling a cloud of sweet fragrance. This is only available in the early mornings so let you hotel know the night before that you’ll be wanting some.