Eating Through Kolkata: Five Restaurants That Capture The City’s Evolving Food Culture

What do you think of when you think of Kolkata’s food and drinks scene?

For decades, the answer to this question was shaped by nostalgia. The city’s culinary identity has long been anchored to legacy institutions like Trincas, Flurys, Peter Cat, Aminia, and Oly Pub. These spaces shaped how we ate, connected, and communicated over shared tables with family and friends, new and old.

But to speak of Kolkata’s food culture only through the lens of nostalgia is to miss what is happening now. Over the last decade, a decisive shift has been taking place — one driven by diners who are more travelled, more curious, and less content with familiar flavours. The city’s new-age restaurants are not trying to replace or replicate the old guard. Instead, they are expanding what dining in Kolkata can look and feel like.

These contemporary spaces embrace global influences without anxiety, experiment without apology, and treat ambience, service, and drinks as integral parts of the experience rather than afterthoughts. They are as comfortable serving refined Italian or pan-Asian plates as they are reworking Indian flavours through a modern lens. Crucially, they are not nostalgic by default; they are present-tense restaurants for a city that is both changing and staying the same — looking forward to the future while staying firmly rooted in the city's history of culinary cosmopolitanism.

There will always be a place for legacy institutions in Kolkatans' palates. But the restaurants shaping Kolkata's gastronomic landscape today speak to a different appetite — one that is insatiable, evolving, and eager to see the city’s dining culture grow beyond reverence for the past, into something more fluid, confident, and contemporary.

AMPM is Park Street’s answer to all-day cafés that effortlessly shift moods and atmospheres throughout the day. In the morning, it’s a bright, breezy space for coffee, pastries, and conversations with friends; by evening, it transforms into a lively bistro-bar buzzing with artisanal cocktails, never-ending conversations, and live music. The menu features global and contemporary flavors — including pastas, grills, small plates, and desserts that transition easily from brunch to dinner. AMPM was ranked 22nd in the 2024 30 Best Bars in India list. Follow AMPM here.

One of Kolkata’s most confident pan-Asian restaurants, Soba Sassy is theatrical, maximalist, and unapologetically fun. Located on the first floor of the colonial-era Harrington Mansion, the space — layered with colour, neon accents, and distinct seating zones — is designed for high-energy evenings with friends. Its menu pulls freely from Japanese, Chinese, and Southeast Asian cuisines, favouring bold flavours and playful interpretations over strict authenticity. Follow Soba Sassy here.

Ristorante Sorano represents Kolkata’s insatiable appetite for fine European dining. Elegant without being intimidating, Sorano focuses on classic Italian comfort — handmade pastas, wood-fired pizzas, and traditional sauces executed with care. The space is calm and quietly luxurious, ideal for long dinners and celebratory meals. While the menu rarely chases trends, its strength lies in consistency and balance, supported by a thoughtfully curated wine list and signature cocktails. Follow Sorano here.

Jalsa approaches Indian cuisine with a modern perspective, transforming familiar flavors into carefully presented dishes that merge hemispheres. The menu features heavily on North Indian and Mughlai traditions — kebabs, rich gravies, and fragrant breads — while refining them for a more contemporary, global dining experience. Think: Tandoori Guchhi, a luxurious blend of Kashmiri morels, saffron-infused cream, and crispy parmesan; or Pesto Paneer Tikka — soft cottage cheese marinated in fresh pesto, complemented by olives and capers for a Mediterranean twist. Jalsa is perfect for both family dinners and intimate nights out. Follow Jalsa here.

Master Jackie, the newest addition to Chowringhee Road’s vibrant restaurant scene, positions itself as both an homage and a renewal — drawing on Kolkata’s distinctive Chinese culinary history while resonating with modern tastes. Founded by Harneet Baweja (of Gunpowder, London, fame) and designed by Anumeha Todi, the space evokes the intimacy of old Calcutta clubs, reimagined with warmth and restraint. In the kitchen, Chef Peter Chin leads a menu rooted in tradition: meticulously crafted dumplings, Cantonese pan-fried noodles, and Singapore chili crab are featured prominently. Together, the food and setting work to preserve and celebrate the city’s layered Chinese culinary legacy. Follow Master Jackie here.

Find the restaurants mentioned in this guide here:

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