Homegrown Label Chamar's Mumbai Exhibit Is A Poignant Intersection Of Design & Activism

A gallery for functional design and art, Aequo in Colaba is a space designed for conversations at the intersection of art and culture. True to form, the latest exhibit at Aequo features a brand that has been working relentlessly at the interaction of design and activism: Chamar. The defiant label’s founder Sudheer Rajbhar has been working since 2017, to recontextualise the casteist term ‘Chamar’ from being derogatory to being rightfully associated with the intricate skilled leather work of the community. Through each collection, they seek out new ways to highlight and challenge the prevalent social injustices in the nation. 

The gallery in the past has worked with many artisans across India and facilitates collaborations with contemporary designers for new collections. Founded by Tarini Jindal Handa and under the creative direction of Florence Louisy, as we’d shared in an earlier feature, “Aequo seeks to bring together and analyse the ever-evolving relationship between makers, designers and materials to create truly original contemporary design.” For their latest exhibit that opens on the 12th of September 2024, featuring Chamar, they are exploring rubber and form, through pieces of furniture. 

Sudheer Rajbhar, along with his creative associate Camille Bastien and their master craftsman Rahul Gore, have created statement-making armchairs for their latest collection. According to the posts leading up to the show, “Each piece is built on a shared metal framework and dressed in a distinct style, drawing inspiration from fashion with features like oversized stitching, extravagant pockets, and belts. Like grand costumes, these imposing creations showcase the diverse techniques developed by Chamar and the colour palettes refined over the past nine years.”

One of the most iconic designs from Chamar is their Pocket Armchair, and an iteration of the same is being crafted for the upcoming exhibit as well. Drawing references from the world of fashion and garment construction, Sudheer Rajbhar has created pieces like the Pocket Chair, the Sleeve lights and many more such designs.

The traditional riveting usually seen on furniture is replaced with attire-like stitching details. In addition, the brand has also shared how they use specially developed recycled rubber to craft their pieces. More importantly, the precision cut employed to craft these is undertaken by the plastic pattern cutters of Dharavi, whose skills are on par with the leather craftsmen of homegrown yore. 

To experience the meticulous details of the pieces from Chamar, up close and personal, in a beautiful gallery-esque space that blends the line between fine and functional art, head to the RUB IN exhibit at Aequo Gallery. 

Follow Aequo Gallery here.

Follow Chamar India here.

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