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The world of fashion is expansive and no matter how hard you try to stay informed, there are some incredible designers whose work you might not have encountered, despite constantly reading and writing about fashion. For me, designer duo Lecoanet Hemant was unknown, until I came across a feature on them in the latest issue of Vogue India. As if by serendipity, (or more realistically because my phone heard me gushing to a friend about their work), their work came up on my Instagram Explore and I couldn’t fathom the fact that I had remained unfamiliar with their mastery across both couture and pret.
The Indo-French label has been long celebrated for their exquisite blend of Eastern and Western design sensibilities by those ‘in the know’. Founded by designers Hemant Sagar and Didier Lecoanet, after having met in Paris in the late 70s, they became renowned for their haute couture creations over the next two decades. After their debut in 1981, Lecoanet Hemant established themselves as a leading figure in the world of haute couture.
According to a Vogue India feature their debut store on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré and inaugural collection in collaboration with Cartier Haute Joaillerie earned them a prestigious membership in the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. Over the decades, their creations have adorned French aristocrats, Middle Eastern royalty, and the international jet set, earning accolades such as the Golden Thimble and the Swarovski Creation Prize. Their pieces have even graced renowned museums as the objet d'art they are.
In 2000, the duo took their collective vision to the realm of ready-to-wear with their line, 'Genes'. This contemporary line that encapsulates the essence of Parisian savoir-faire and Indian craftsmanship was launched to offer modern, couture-inspired designs that are timeless and inclusive. With the intent to reimagine signature classics for an urban wardrobe, Genes merges modern designs with its signature couture heritage.
Speaking to Indulge Express in May 2024, the designer duo that is now based out of Delhi mentioned, “Genes was born out of a vision for a lifestyle centred around inclusion and individuality. Modern and intelligent designs are merged with Parisian artistry and Indian workmanship to reinvent signature classics for an urban wardrobe.”
The latest collection from Genes, titled 'A La Tropique' is a homage to the tropical rainforest. Inspired by Creative Director Didier Lecoanet’s paintings, this collection captures the essence of tropical wilderness. According to the label's blog, Lecoanet shared, “Each season we find ourselves going back to the drawing board; sketching, painting and creating from scratch. This time, the goal was to capture a feeling of pristine tropical wilderness.”. His hand-painted scenery on canvas, depicting bamboo, açai palm trees, bromeliad flowers, and heliconias, served as the repository of ideas for this season's designs. The collection features vibrant hues, imaginative prints, and innovative silhouettes that blur the boundaries of gender, all while celebrating the wild spirit of the jungle.
In an interview with Indulge Express, Hemant Sagar noted, “Each season, we try to capture the sentiment driving our thoughts and outlook towards the world. Clothes are, after all, instruments of expression. For Summer ’24, the Genes design team gravitated towards hope. There is an evident optimism and sense of cheer in the abundance of nature.” This optimism is reflected in the collection’s bright palette, that ranges from spring green to amethyst, orange, mint green, lavender, and khaki.
Today, Genes Lecoanet Hemant creates season-less attire and accessories, from handpicked fabrics. Their latest collection is characterised by imaginative prints, novel embroideries, and modern silhouettes.
As Lecoanet Hemant continues to evolve, their pret wear line represents a blend of tradition and modernity that they have stayed dedicated to over the last 24 years. Merging French design with Indian craftsmanship for the modern sartorialists, the collection stands on its own in the global fashion landscape. It is a marker of the brand’s overarching philosophy: celebrating individuality, inclusivity, and the vibrancy of craft and nature. With its rich heritage and forward-thinking approach, Lecoanet Hemant is a label that captures the enduring sartorial legacy of its founders and their commitment to creating beautiful, meaningful attire.
You can follow them here.
