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India has a long history of cotton cultivation, spinning, and weaving. Farmers in the Indus Valley Civilisation spread across present-day India and Pakistan were the first to spin and weave textiles from cotton in the region. In 1929, archaeologists recovered fragments of cotton textiles from the 3rd millennium BCE at Mohenjo-Daro, and cotton seeds from the 5th millennium BCE were found at the nearby Mehrgarh archaeological site — both currently in Pakistan. Literary references also point to the ancient origins of the subcontinent's cotton industry. The Vedic corpus, composed between 1500 and 1200 BCE also allude to cotton spinning and weaving in the region at the time.
Over the years, South Asian cotton farmers and weavers have cultivated many different varieties of cotton and made many different types of textiles from them. Gossypium herbaceum or Kala Cotton, indigenous to the Kutch region of Gujarat, is one of them. It is a resilient, indigenous variety of old world cotton which has been cultivated in the region since ancient times, with archaeological evidence tracing its use back to the Indus Valley Civilisation between 3000 and 2750 BCE. Kala Cotton is a purely rain-fed crop, which requires no synthetic pesticides or fertilisers. Its short-staple fibres (approximately 22–23 mm in length) are naturally coarse and durable, making them suitable for handwoven textiles. The crop’s resilience to drought and pests makes it ideal for the arid conditions of Kutch, supporting sustainable agricultural practices.
Historically, Kala Cotton was integral to India’s indigenous textile heritage. It was the primary source of yarn in pre-Independence Kutch and played a role in the Swadeshi movement, symbolising self-reliance and sustainability. However, during the British Raj, the cultivation of Indian cotton varieties like Kala Cotton declined due to the emphasis on indigo cultivation for dye-making and the introduction of long-staple cotton varieties preferred by industrial mills back in England.
In response to the decline of traditional cotton cultivation, Khamir — a joint initiative of Kachchh Nav Nirman Abhiyan and the Nehru Foundation for Development — launched the Kala Cotton Initiative in 2010. This program aims to create a sustainable value chain by connecting local farmers, spinners, and weavers, promoting organic farming, and preserving traditional weaving techniques. By fostering collaborations with organisations like Satvik and Setu, the initiative supports marginalised cotton farming and weaving communities.
The revival of Kala Cotton has not only preserved a significant aspect of India’s textile heritage but also provided economic opportunities for artisans in Kutch. Local weavers are now organised in communities to produce handwoven textiles, gaining recognition both nationally and internationally. The initiative has also inspired contemporary designers to incorporate Kala Cotton into their collections, promoting ethical and sustainable practices in the Indian fashion industry.
Currently, Khamir offers a range of handwoven Kala Cotton products on their official website. Other retailers, such as Handicrafts of Kutch, also provide access to these eco-friendly indigenous textiles. By choosing Kala Cotton yarns, textiles, and products, conscientious designers and consumers alike support environmental sustainability and the livelihoods of traditional artisans, contributing to the preservation of India’s rich indigenous textile heritage.
