For centuries, India has been renowned worldwide for its jewellery. Our intricate, artisanal traditions have been in development since ancient times, making Indian jewellers among the best in the world. Considering this long history and the incredible feats our jewellers have already achieved, artists today face the daunting task of living up to their predecessors. They have to create something brand new while also taking advantage of the rich artistic history at their disposal, walking the tightrope between innovation and inspiration.
Ayesha Sureya is a jewellery artist and 3D designer who has managed to find this balance. Born and raised in London, Ayesha’s art is an expression of diasporic identity. While other jewellery artists draw inspiration from India’s artisanal practices, Ayesha’s jewellery acts as a conduit for the complex, nuanced aspects of their background. Their work is about more than just adornment; it’s an inspection of the personal self as it rises out of collective grief and history.
Each of Ayesha’s collections is a work of self-reflective commentary. Their first two works, entitled 'home, stay' and 'Gold Chain', subverted expectations by not actually being jewellery at all. The first was a rolling pin embedded with gems, leaving imprints of the gems on the users’ food. The next was a plain white shirt with the mark of a gold chain printed along the collar in turmeric, intended to make a statement on the purpose of contemporary jewellery.
Their Devas collection, arguably Ayesha’s most renowned works, was a surrealist series of metal jewellery inspired by Hindu deities. Using digital technology to shape the designs, the Devas collection bridged ancient times with modernity, offering us access to a world that often feels inaccessible. The collection transforms ancient spiritual practices into wearable works of art — the Mudra Ear Cuff, for instance, lines one’s ear with a 3-dimensional rendering of mudra hand signals. The Sun Salutation Hoops are another stand-out piece, turning the body’s movement into a series of static mini-sculptures that flow into one another.
Just as a painting’s function is not just to be aesthetically pleasing, Ayesha shows us that jewellery can be much more than a mere accessory. Their work doesn’t just take inspiration from their cultural roots, it also reevaluates their own relationship with every new piece, thereby exploring the nuances of their own identity. It's where jewellery becomes wearable (and, sometimes, unwearable) commentary.
Follow Ayesha Sureya here.
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