When I was younger, I dreamt of moving to a bustling city. But merely a decade later, and having lived in three of the big cities of India - Mumbai, Delhi and Bangalore, I decided to move back to Kochi. Having grown up here, and found a second home in Pondicherry, I realised that the city life wasn’t for me in bigger doses. They were indulgences at best - one I would head to for events, or when something unmissable was happening. But for the everyday, the joys of the tier 2 city where I get the best of both worlds - the slow and the burgeoning - is just what I need.
In looking around, I see more people finding their most true, creative selves in slower cities. From musicians from Chandigarh to designers from Jaipur - there is no dearth of authentic, original experiences here. I would go so far to say that some of the most disruptive cultural moments and talents are those that begin in these cities. Perhaps it is all the time we save in traffic, or perhaps it's the fact that there is space for more people to thrive in their uniqueness here, but Tier 2 cities are full of heart and intention.
This edition of Homegrown’s Guide has been curated by Dina Weber of SAPA Bakery, Mysore. The dedicated artisanal bakery was founded by German origin Dina Weber, who moved to India to volunteer, and found life, love and home in Mysore. Known for their sourdough breads and fine pastries, as well as their novel collaborations (from a choux pastry and artisanal ice cream showdown to a sourdough bread and craft cheese sandwich pop) and of course, their Christmas Stollen that many (including this writer) wait the whole year for. When the idea to put together a Mysore guide came about, it only felt befitting to have this guide be curated by someone who has made a home for herself in Mysore.
First Things First
We wouldn’t recommend visiting Mysore at the peak of summer, as the tropical locale that it is. According to many, the time between September to February is ideal, but even the monsoon season is a good time to visit Mysore and make the most of all that the city has to offer.
How To Get To Mysore
If you’re flying in, the closest airport to Mysore would be Bangalore, and from there it is approximately 140 kms, i.e.,a three hour drive away.
The Green Hotel
According to Dina, The Green Hotel is “a lovely old-school and rustic spot. Simple rooms with a lot of character and a sweet garden restaurant. Nothing luxurious—just peaceful and charming.” When we looked up the hotel, we also realised that the restored heritage building was an erstwhile palace called ‘Chittaranjan Palace’ that was the home for Mysore’s princesses.
Follow them here.
Villa Vani
The restored 1970s building is a small boutique villa in Vani Vilas Mohalla locale of Mysore, with 4 luxurious bedrooms, generous living space. According to Dina, it has “the sweetest interiors and a beautiful garden terrace, and the common breakfast table makes it feel like home.”
Follow them here.
Royal Metropole
A heritage luxury hotel situated close to Mysore Palace, which was once gifted to the British by the Mysore Royal family, the Royal Metropole is 105 years old and boasts of classic colonial architecture of the times. The stunning property with 30 suite rooms, and a beautiful courtyard is a great option for those looking to have a heritage stay while in Mysore.
Follow them here.
Gitanjali Homestay
Tucked below the Chamundi Hills, Gitanjali is more than just a place to stay. It's a chance to experience plantation life. Run by the wonderful Yamuna and her family that hails from the Kodava community, it’s a charming garden homestay right next to her own residence. “You couldn’t ask for a sweeter host,” Dina says - and we believe her after taking a look at their website. It looks like one of those places where the mornings would smell of filter coffee and ring with laughter and shared conversations.
Follow them here.
SAPA Bakery
Of course, we’d be remiss not to begin here. While the croissants and cinnamon rolls are now cult favourites, Dina recommends their pulled pork ciabatta or goat cheese-stuffed bajji chillies - an inspired blend of the local and the global and washing it down with a bottle of Umami Brew kombucha.
Follow them here.
Bopy’s
Come for the beer, stay for the mango trees. The relaxed Kodava-style eatery feels like we’ve stumbled upon a local secret. According to Dina, she loves their cheese balls, and pepper pork to go with a bottle or two of Kingfisher beer.
Follow them here.
Halli Hatti
After a morning trek up Chamundi Hill, this is the place to be. “Ideal for dosa and idli,” Dina shares - especially with the early sun still warming your back and a tumbler of filter coffee in hand.
Vaibhav Food Company
Another beloved South Indian breakfast place, Vaibhav Food Company has idlis that are light as air, and is especially delectable with a drizzle of ghee, or so Dina shared with us.
Dhanalakshmi Churmuri Centre
Every city has that one unassuming spot that locals swear by. Seems like this place is yet another one of those. Dina suggests going for the banana stem churmuri, and their ever-changing seasonal specials.
CCBC
A homey cafe that serves up the best of locale fare. Their ragi dosa and chow chow bhath are comforting staples, recommended by Dina, in addition to her favorite from them - the kesari bhath.
Follow them here.
Green Hotel Restaurant
Even if you're not staying at the earlier mentioned Green Hotel, their garden café is worth visiting. The food is straightforward, but Dina recommends going for their quiet lawns and peaceful atmosphere.
Loco Chocolates
Small-batch, ethically-made chocolates that taste as good as they sound. Dina recommends the peanut butter chocolate cookies and their signature hot chocolate.
Follow them here.
Naviluna
One of Mysore’s best-kept secrets, Naviluna is an artisanal chocolate brand that began in 2012 in Mysore. The brand’s HQ is housed in Mysore in a 120-year-old bungalow-turned-chocolate atelier, where you can watch live chocolate-making, and sip on soul-warming hot chocolate.
Follow them here.
Guru Sweets (Clocktower Square)
When in Mysore, one has to have Mysore Pak. And for that, Dina suggests Guru Sweets, and sitting under the clocktower, and people watching. One look at their google review and I can almost imagine my mother, the resident Mysore Pak lover at home, going crazy over the sheer variety and range of the mysore paks they have to offer - from the ghee laden melt-in-your-mouth Mysore Pak to the more crumbly, yet nostalgic kind that is still seen at the local bakeries here in Kerala.
Devaraja Market
Nothing and no fancy restaurants can help you see the reality of life in a place while travelling, like you do by visiting a local market. For the joy of strolling through the lanes and mingling with the locals as they go about their everyday lives, Devaraja market might be the best choice. While you’re there, Dina suggests grabbing “Nanjangud Rasabale'- the local Mysore banana.
Ashoka Road
The pulse of a town, big or small, is often found in the bylanes. Ashoka Road in Mysore is one of those places. According to Dina, you should take this road and set off to “wander the goldsmith area and grab a kachori from Narayanlal Kachorivala.”
RRR
When in Mysore, one has to obviously eat the local fare, but one also has to look around for more cuisines. For Dina, RRR is the best spot in town when looking for something South Indian, but not the Mysore or Kodava cuisine. So for Andhra-style meals and biryanis, head to RRR in Chamrajpura for brunch, lunch or dinner.
Sahib’s Brick Oven Pizza
For those looking for a good slice to be shared on the side of good conversation, this is the place to go. According to Dina, Sahib’s is a “ cute little sourdough pizza corner on Kalidasa Road.”
Follow them here.
Old House
The love for Italian cuisine is one that has taken India by a storm. If you’re looking for Italian fare, artisanal coffee, or a great scoop (or two) of home-churned gelato, Old House is the place for you. Located in Chamarajapuram, Old House is a great choice for an afternoon sweet treat, while in Mysore.
Follow them here.
Minimal Coffee Roasters (Original)
An unassuming favorite, the Minimal Coffee Roasters in Gokulam locale of Mysore, according to Dina, was the city’s first neighborhood specialty coffee shop. She recommends their excellent single-origin brews, which got them through lockdown. It is a place that holds a special place in her heart.
Minimal Coffee At Southern Star
Dina also recommended Ashwin Shetty’s latest café in Mysore itself, which is located nside Southern Star Hotel. Dina recommended it for “its beautiful interiors, top-notch coffee gear, and great house roasts (with our SAPA pastries too).”
Follow them here.
Hide Away
A cafe that stands by its name and was dubbed a ‘real gem’ by Dina, Hideaway in Yadavagiri is a quaint and peaceful coffee shop that offers speciality coffee, warmth and cosy vibes 6 days a week (except Tuesday).
You can follow them here.
Get yourself the best guide
According to Dina, Faizan is the best guide you can get for yourself. She said, “he knows Mysore’s history like his vest pocket—curious facts, hidden gems, and great food recommendations.” So whether you are looking to do a single-day of sight-seeing, or doing a multi-day themed tour, he is the guy to call.
Call Faizan at +91 88673 79806
The Kala Devi Doll Museum
The heritage and history that are retained in art and artefacts, especially in toys and dolls are an intriguing notion. So when in Mysore, make sure to check out the incredible collection of dolls at Kala Devi museum. Dina recommends keeping your eyes peeled, especially for intricately detailed South Indian dolls, some of which are very old too.
The Chennakesava Temple at Somnathpur
A UNESCO World Heritage Hoysala temple has a history that dates to 1258. Located 38 Kms away from Mysore city, the temple is a pinnacle of Hoysala era architecture, with Intricate carvings and uniquely designed layout. As a pretty busy tourist spot, Dina suggests going on a weekday if possible to the temple, to avoid the crowds. (As a lover of historic monuments and temples, this writer suggests going as early in the morning as you can as well, to beat the crowds and to get the best view of dawn)
The Sri Ranga Patna Obelisk Monument
Talking about tranquil spots, the historic Obelisk Monument by the Cauvery, built in 1907 to commemorate the siege of Srirangapatna in 1799 between the British and Tipu Sultan is a great spot to catch a sunset in Mysore.The monument was built during the reign of Krishna Raja Wadiyar IV after the death of Tipu Sultan, in gratitude to the British in 1907. The Obelisk located near the walls of the Srirangapatna Fort, on a high point on the Cauvery River, offers a great view and vantage point.
Tipu Sultan’s Summer Palace
Tipu Sultan’s Summer Palace in Srirangapatna, also known as Daria Daulat Bagh (literally the “Garden of the Sea of Wealth”) is one stunning summer palace of Tipu Sultan, completed in 1784. Built almost entirely of teakwood in the Indo-Saracenic style, it sits on a raised platform, features open-pillared corridors, and delicate wooden architecture - iconic to the style. Its interiors are adorned with frescoes depicting battles, the regal life, and floral motifs, all in an art style that is specific to Mysore. It also houses quite a few British era paintings too. The upper portion of the palace is a museum showcasing Tipu’s personal artifacts, Persian manuscripts, and more.
Mysore Palace
The Mysore Palace - also known as Amba Vilas - is a three‑storey structure built (and rebuilt multiple times) between 1897 and 1912. Its facade features domed towers, ornate arches and a statue of the goddess Gajalakshmi. Inside, richly carved mahogany ceilings, stained glass, chandeliers and vibrant murals deck the halls such as the Durbar Hall, Kalyana Mantapa and private audience rooms. You can see the golden throne and the legendary wrestling courtyard of the erstwhile Mysore kings, who were major patrons of the sport .
Kukkarahalli Lake
Often credited as being the lungs to Mysore, Kukkurahalli Lake is a great spot in the middle of Mysore, which according to dine is a great place “for early morning walks and bird-watching (lots of pelicans!)”
Chamundi Hill
The Chamundeshwari temple sits atop the main hill. The history of the hills is linked to mythology, folklore, and the royal history of Mysore. Yes, you might have to climb 1000 steps to reach the summit of Chamundi hill to see the breathtaking view it offers. But according to Hindu mythology, it is the site where the demon king Mahishasura was killed by the goddess Chamundeshwari. Whether looking for a great view, or to witness a mythological legacy being honoured to this day, Chamundi HIll trip is worth the climb, when in Mysore.
Ashoka Road & Devaraja Market
For a leisurely walk through old Mysore, start from Ashoka Road and saunter down to Devaraja Market. According to Urbanaut, it is a great way to spend 2-3 hours on a leisurely walk. Dina echoes the same and shares how it is the best place for wandering, especially on Sundays. She specifically recommends stopping for Nanjangud Rasabale bananas. A little goodling clued us in on how this particular banana, with a GI tag, is from the Nanjangud district in Mysore and beloved locally for its unique taste and aroma.
Jagan Mohan Palace
Located quite close to the Mysore Palace, Jaganmohan Palace built in 1861 was an alternate royal residence. Its Durbar Hall and auditorium hosted ceremonies, university convocations and the Maharaja’s coronation in 1902. Since 1915, it has been home to the Sri Jayachamarajendra Art Gallery, showcasing over 2,000 artworks, including masterpieces by Raja Ravi Varma, Haldenkar’s “Lady with the Lamp,” Indian, Mughal and Western paintings, plus royal artefacts. Dina says it is even home to a forgotten work by the renowned artist Rembrandt.
Folklore Museum (University Area)
If you love, craft, arts and stories, the folklore museum in the University of Mysore campus, that is housed in the Jayalakshmi Vilas Mansion holds over 6,500 artefacts from Karnataka’s rich folk traditions, according to Wikipedia. From dramatic masks, leather puppets, Yakshagana costumes, musical instruments, dolls, tribal crafts — everything finds a place here, even everyday rural tools from a time gone by.
RK Narayan’s House
Located in Yadavagiri, R.K. Narayan’s house-turned-museum offers an intimate glimpse into the life of one of India’s most beloved writers. Restored and opened to the public in 2016, the two-storeyed home now displays his writing desk, clothes, rare photographs, personal belongings, his clothes and the esteemed awards he’s received. There are also stills from the Malgudi Days TV series, as well as tributes from friends, the museum brings alive the world that inspired his timeless stories, according to Museums of India.
Karnataka Silk Industries Corporation Limited (KSIC) Factory & Store
At the KSIC Silk Factory and Store, you can witness the magic behind Mysore silk sarees. According to Dina this is a great stop over while in Mysore. She said, “Mysore silk sarees! You can even see the production process. The fabric is just gorgeous.” Produced since the early 20th century, this silk is known for its fine weave, rich texture, and pure gold zari. The factory, established in 1932, carries forward a legacy once started to supply royal garments for the Mysore royals. They even have a special stamp for authentic KSIC saree with a unique silk mark of purity and origin.
Follow Dina Weber here.
If you enjoyed reading this, here's more from Homegrown:
The Mysore Queens Who Became The Face Of The World's First Vaccination Campaign
Soma Ayurvedic’s Fragrances Are Inspired By The Olfactory Essence Of Indian Locales
The Tropical Way: Paloma Monnappa's Guide To Discovering The Paradise That Is Sri Lanka