What do sake, miso, shoyu, mirin, soju, and north-east Indian rice wines have in common?

None of them would exist without a mold known as koji, or Aspergillus oryzae.

In 725 CE, a Japanese fudoki or regional gazette titled ‘Harima no Kuni Fudoki’ (“Geography and Culture of Harima Province”) described the natural formation of this mold on wet rice: “Some dried, cooked rice got wet and mold formed. This was used to make sake”. This unassuming sentence was the first written mention of koji in Japanese records.

Over the next several centuries, the Japanese would domesticate this miracle mold and isolate different strains of koji, selecting them for traits such as rapid mycelial growth, pleasant fragrances, high amylase yield, and low toxin byproduct. By the 13th century, during the Heian period, it would be responsible for many staples of traditional Japanese cuisine, such as sake (rice wine), miso (fermented soybean paste), mirin (rice vinegar), and soy sauce.

At the koji culture workshop led by Chef Payal Shah of Kobo Fermentary at The Good Craft Co. — Diageo India’s Flavour Lab in Bengaluru — on Saturday, 17 January 2026, I learned that this microorganism’s history goes back much further. “The Japanese domesticated it, but koji was first discovered in China,” Chef Shah said.

Koji was first found in China around 300 BCE through the technique of solid-state cultivation using rice grains, soybeans, and wheat bran. Its earliest written records appear in the Zhouli (“Rites of the Zhou Dynasty”), where it is referred to as ‘qu’ — a grain-based fermentation starter. By 90 BCE, references in the Shiji (“Records of the Historian”) by Sima Qian show that fermented black soybeans and qu were already major commodities in the Chinese economy. From there, koji traveled to Japan through maritime trade and arrived in North-East India following a land route through the Yunnan province.

Today, koji is widely used in North-East India to make alcoholic beverages, primarily regional variants of rice wine. Chef Shah has been working closely with koji for decades, and she walked us through the various stages of how it is used to break down the starch in grains first into sugar, and then into alcohol by introducing yeast.

At The Academy, the Flavour Lab’s learning space surrounded by artefacts associated with heritage liquors and spirits from different parts of India — such as feni from Goa, kesar kasturi from Rajasthan, mahua from central India, and toddy from south India — I spent the next few hours watching and listening to Chef Shah explain the history and nuances koji fermentation. I held and saw koji in its seed form, and tasted a wonderful, mellow rice wine Chef Shah made with Manipuri black rice — a fragrant, glutinous, antioxidant-rich indigenous rice from Manipur, India, famous for its nutty flavour, sticky texture, and deep black colour that turns purple when cooked.

The Good Craft Co., located inside a medical college campus in Bengaluru’s Whitefield neighborhood, is India’s first Flavour Lab and experience centre. Established in 2022, this experimental lab also provides an immersive experience into the art and science of Indian craft spirits. Divided into four distinct zones — the Entry, the Academy, the Walkthrough, and the Bar & Fermentary — visitors get an up-close view of Diageo India’s creation process, including guided tasting sessions focused on research, development, and innovation. For aspiring startups in India’s expanding alco-bev sector, this space also serves as a bootcamp.

Each Saturday session at the Flavour Lab, led by industry experts like Chef Shah spotlights a different element of India’s craft spirits ecosystem, from ingredients and techniques to people and processes. At the koji workshop I attended, not only did I learn about this brilliant microorganism’s history and usefulness in making traditional ferments, but also how homegrown creatives like Chef Shah and Prachet Sancheti (@brownkojiboy) are using this magical mold to make innovative ferments, sauces, dips, syrups, and even salts to take koji culture forward.

As we approached the end of the session at the Lab, we wrapped up with two cocktails crafted by resident mixologist Neil Alexander (who unfortunately couldn’t be there for the session): Ranch Water combined Joven — an agave spirit — with a sweet Koji syrup by Prachet Sacheti, verjus, soda water, and Chef Shah’s magic salt, creating a bright, fizzy, minerals-meet-mojito cocktail that was perfectly balanced between sweet and tart; and Michelada, a savory-citrus take on Reposado, mixed with miso hot sauce and celery brine, topped with lager for a bold, earthy, and refreshingly complex flavor. We also sampled a refined Mahua spirit made by Neil at his home.

Food and drinks bring people together, build connections, and foster community. Beyond sustenance, food and drinks — especially alcoholic beverages — have long symbolised something profoundly human: our need to share, experience together, and enjoy each other’s company over communal meals. Alcoholic drinks have a rich history of association with celebrations.

Like many cultures worldwide, India, too, has a proud tradition of making exceptional spirits perfected over centuries. The Good Craft Co. seeks to highlight the best of Indian craft spirits across the world through a blend of technology and storytelling. Part research facility, part experience centre, part learning hub, The Flavour Lab embodies this ethos and sits at the intersection of India’s ever-evolving homegrown spirits and craft story.

The koji culture workshop was part of The Good Craft Co.’s ongoing calendar, which highlights a different element of the craft spirits ecosystem each Saturday.

Get in touch with The Good Craft Co. team through thegoodcraftco@dnahospitality.in or 9980999930, or follow @thegoodcraftco_ to learn more.

If you enjoyed reading this, here’s more from Homegrown:

How Brown Koji Boy Is Bringing An Indian Twist To Classic Japanese Fermentation

From Fermented Traditions to Bottled Brews: Indian Kombucha Brands On Our Radar

‘Taari’ Is A Fermented Toddy That’s Ingrained In Parsi History And Culture