All life on Earth evolved from the ocean. Neil Shubin, author of Your Inner Fish, discovered Tiktaalik, whose existence is pivotal in the story of life on Earth - it marks the moment when the first fish walked on land. Shubin writes, “Tiktaalik has a shoulder, elbow, and wrist composed of the same bones as an upper arm, forearm, and wrist in a human. When we study the structure of these joints in this fish to assess how one bone moves against another, we see that Tiktaalik was specialized for a rather extraordinary function: it was capable of doing push-ups.” Say hello to the first transitional tetrapod that we, humans, have descended from. Consider how magnificent this moment was, when the first being evolved to walk on land. Would you believe us if we said the journey of going back into water is just as magnificent? Good thing we’ve got scuba!
The Ocean is home to treasure of all kind and when we dive, we witness this first hand. Take the very first encounter with Coral Reefs, and the vast realisation that although they form 1% of the ocean surface, they are home to about 25% of marine life. These colourful structures are so big they are visible from the moon! However, the touch of a finger or a shroud of plastic is enough to damage it forever. Take another - the very first being to have actually attained immortality exists in the ocean. The Turriptosis Dohrnii is a species of jellyfish that is able to transform its cells from a state of complete maturity to immaturity, and restart it’s circle of life. But if that’s getting too ahead of ourselves, let’s come back into the human body and begin to appreciate every single breath we take - our true elixir of life. The single breathe controls everything your body does underwater. There is almost nothing else that makes us as conscious of our own life force as diving does.
It wouldn’t be fair if we only spoke to you of the glory of diving, without telling you where you’ve got to go to feel the magic and explore for yourselves. Here’s a list of the best diving spots in India you need to head to while you still can.
I. Barren Island, Andaman Islands
Barren Island is India’s only active volcano - a dive site that truly is one of its kind. It is about 2.5 hours away by boat from Havelock - making it a full day trip of diving. Barren Island’s underwater scape ranges from tones of black to deep night blue, a complete contrast to the colours you would see in any of the other sites in the Andamans. The darkness of the sand makes for the perfect contrast canvas upon which lay pristine Corals and sponges of iridescent hues. The best dive sites here are Purple Haze and Manta Point.
When to go: February to April
Who to dive with: Infiniti Liveaboard. This is India’s only scuba diving superyacht, and it operates in the Andamans. It is 130 feet long and fully equipped for a comfortable onboard stay with four decks, 8 guest rooms, lounges, dining room, kitchen and wheelhouse. Since it specialises in scuba diving, it has an onboard team of pro divers, a specialised dive platform with all the scuba equipment ready to go.
What you’re likely to see: This Island is top for those who want to swim with the most graceful giants of all, Manta Rays. You’re also likely to see Pilot whales, Big- eyed Trevally, Fusiliers, Barracuda, Green Turtles, Soft Purple coral, Fans, Blue Marlin, Needle fish, Reef fish, Staghorn coral and Salad coral.
Costs: Open-booking trips range from five nights to eight nights. Dive packages start from ₹89,000 and go up to ₹2,29,999 + tax depending on duration and itinerary. PADI courses to learn diving are extra at ₹14,000.
II. Chidiya Tapu, Port Blair
Chidiyatapu is south of Port Blair, and a 40 minute drive from the airport. It is a beautifully secluded spot, sans the tourists that one may typically encounter during peak season in Havelock. Remnants of an East India Company cargo ship that sank in 1918 makes for a unique dive site, just 15 minutes away from the Lacadives dive centre. The wreck is approximately 75 metres long, and is at a Depth of 30 metres making it an advanced level dive.
When to go: Anytime from October until May
Who to dive with: Lacadives. They are known for their highly personalised dive experiences - typically small groups and dedicated instruction, with a conscious effort to minimise every divers ecological footprint on the reef.
What you’re likely to see: Snappers, Fusiliers, Batfish, Trevallies, Barracudas and the residential Grouper that live in and around the old and corroded ship structure.
Costs:
Single Dive: ₹3,000
Night Dive: ₹3,500
6 Dive Package: ₹16,500
PADI Open Water Course: ₹25,000
PADI Advanced Open Water Certification: ₹18,000
Wreck Specialty (4 Dives): ₹16,000
Where to stay: There are limited options when it comes to stay, as Chidiya Tapu is incredibly secluded. For the most part, you’ll be underwater or hanging at the dive centre - trust us!
Pro Tip: No matter where you end up staying, make sure you have solid mosquito repellent – you’re going to need it.
Oceanus Resort is called so because of its stunning view of the ocean, as it lays perched up on a bit of a hill. They have single accommodation with breakfast for INR 3,999 per night, as well as twin sharing with brekkie for Rs. 4,999 per night. This is about a 15 minute drive from the dive centre. You can hire a cycle from the Lacadives centre if you prefer a nice bike ride to start your day, or ask them to organise a car pick up at an additional charge. The resort also has Wi-Fi, which is a huge plus point for those who can’t afford to be disconnected from the outside world.
Lacadives also has very basic accommodation that is non-AC and on a sharing basis, with all meals included at Rs.1,800 a night. This option is a 10-minute walk from the centre and an easy breezy cycle ride away.
III. Dixon’s Pinnacle, Havelock
This site was discovered by a local Andaman instructor named Dixon, and it has three pinnacles forming a triangle on the ocean floor. The pinnacles are covered in hard and soft coral in every hue your imagination can muster. This site is a favourite cleaning stations for groupers, and rays have been seen soaring overhead. This is one of the most popular dive sites in Havelock - don’t miss this for anything!
When to Go: October to May
Who to Dive with: Barefoot Scuba. They are the only PADI 5 star Instructor Development Dive Centre in the Andaman Islands. For those considering taking their diving to the next level, visit their website for more information on IDC and Dive Master courses.
What you’re likely to see: Giant Groupers, Giant Tuna, schools of more than 200 Barracuda, Trevallies, Napoleon Wrasse, Coral Banded Cleaner Shrimp, Dancing Shrimp, Moray Eels, Lionfish, Emperor Angelfish. There is just constant activity at this dive site with very large schools of fish engulfing your vision at any given moment.
Cost: For 3 days with 2 dives per day, it comes up to ₹ 15,250. If you want to get certified, the Open Water Course is ₹ 24,000 and the Advanced Open Water Course is ₹ 19,700. For a special night dive, for when you want to be submerged in bioluminescence, it costs ₹ 3,700.
Where to Stay: Since diving is an early sport, we recommend you stay as close to your dive centre as possible. Barefoot Scuba has accommodation at their dive centre. A sea facing AC Cottage at Barefoot costs Rs. 6,500 per night on average, while a regular cottage costs Rs. 4,000. Both these options include a set breakfast.
Backpacker alert: You can stay in a frame hut with a common bathroom for Rs. 300.
Where to Eat: The absolute favourite has got to be the Full Moon Cafe’s breakfast. Try the Menemen (Turkish Eggs) and Spinach and cheese omelet! If you’re craving pizza, head straight to B3 at the Jetty and you won’t be disappointed. Lastly, almost nothing compares to evening tea and samosa in the market and the bannoffee shake at Anju Coco.
IV. Kadmat, Lakshadweep
Kadmat Island belongs to the Amindivi subgroup of Islands of the Lakshadweep archipelago. The Island is approximately 10 kilometres in length and less than 500 metres at it’s widest point. There are a host of dive sites off of Kadmat, and we’ve listed the ones you absolutely shouldn’t miss. The Wall, almost one kilometre in length, starts from a shallow shelf at 8 meters and drops in places to 30 meters. You’ll find crevices that are home to lionfish and an array of macro life. You may also find Eagle rays, devil rays, barracuda and the occasional shark glide through these waters. Make sure to shaka at the resident turtles while you’re down there.
Shark Alley is a great deep dive, usually for more advanced divers as there is a lot of current at this site. You’re likely to spot grey reef sharks, white tips, occasional nursing sharks, stingrays, and batfish. Some other sites not to be missed are North Cave, Potato Patch and East Channel.
When to Go: October to May
Who to Dive with: All diving in Lakshadweep is done through the Government Agency, SPORTS.
Where to Stay: Kadmat Island Beach Resort. A double room works out to approximately INR 3,800 per night per person if you stay for the week. A single room would cost about INR 5,400 per night.
V. Pondicherry
The dive sites in Pondicherry range from traditional man-made “reefs”, rocky outcrops and natural coral reefs. Aravind’s wall is slowly becoming famous for Whale shark and Manta Ray sightings. It also a great dive site to drift dive, and has an average visibility of 14m. Discovered in March 2011, The Hole is a great site for Advanced divers, and even better for those with a Deep diver qualification. The dive starts from 30M with an undulating reef bottom. The central part of this dive is the “hole” area. For Advanced divers can look down from the top, while Deep divers, can go down and look into the never ending blackness all around that extends under the rock shelves.
When to go: February - April and September - November are the best months, although the dive centre is open all year round, through every holiday. The waters during these specific months reaches up to about 20-30 metres.
Who to dive with: Temple Adventures. They are PADI certified and their trainers speak over 7 languages. This is a great spot for travellers who can’t afford to leave the mainland just yet.
What you’re likely to see: Turtles, Dolphins, Eagle Rays, Parrot Fish, Sea Snakes, Triggerfish, Butterfly Fish, Bannerfish, Torpedo Rays
Cost: For qualified divers, the cost is ₹5,000 for 2 dives in 1 day. For the Open Water Diver Course (4 DIves, 4 Days) it is ₹24,500, and the Advanced Open Water Diver Course (5 Dives, 2 Days) amounts to ₹18,000.
Where to stay: Pondicherry has plenty of options across all budgets. A simple Airbnb search should set you well on your way. If you are still unsure, you can always check out The House of Blue Mangoes, Hotel De L’orient, and Maison Perumal.
VI. Netrani
Also known as Pigeon Island, Netrani is located 10 miles offshore from the fishing village of Murudeshwar. It is an overnight train or bus from Mumbai, Bangalore or Hyderabad and 220 km from Goa if you want to drive down.The visibility around the island extends to about 10-15 meters. The dive sites range from 10 to 30 m in depth, and consist of coral reefs on the eastern side of the Island, and rock walls on the west and north western side of the Island.
What you’re likely to see: Schools of Barracuda, Jacks, Snappers, Red tooth trigger fish, Indian Banner fish, large shark- like Cobia, Groupers, Honeycomb Moray Eels, Puffer fish, Napoleon Wrasse.
When to go: Any time of the year except during monsoons
Who to dive with: Dive Goa
Costs: Dive Goa organizes a 4 Dive package to Netrani for 3 day for certified divers. The package price includes rental of all dive equipment, refreshments on the dive boat, boat charges, travel from and to Goa and accommodation on a twin share basis at RNS Highway Hotel, Murudeshwar. The package price does not include dinner. The cost for this package is 14,000 for non-AC accommodation and 16,000 for AC accommodation. For those who want to be Open Water certified the package is 24,000 and for Advanced Water Certification it is 15,000. If you don’t want the package, it costs 5,500 for 2 dives.
Where to stay: RNS Residency Hotel (this is where the dive centre is based)
VII. Goa
We trust you need no introduction to this tiny state. We’ll let you get right to this, then.
When to go: Anytime of the year
What you’re likely to see: Barracudas, Damsels, Snappers, Sweetlips, Groupers, Sweepers, Sergeant Majors, Angelfish, Butterflyfish, Parrotfish, Bannerfish, Wrasse, Tangs, Mullets, Tuna, Batfish, Scorpionfish, Lionfish, Rock Cod
Who to dive with: Barracuda Diving
Where to stay: We’ve rounded up 9 of the best budget airbnb homestays in Goa for this season - check it out!
Where to eat: As always, we’ve got you when it comes to mealtime. Here are 20 of the best meals in Goa right now across all budgets.
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