The craftsmanship in India’s everyday shoes tells the story of its people. The Kolhapuri chappal, for instance, was designed for farmers and traders who walked long distances under a relentless sun. Its thick leather sole could withstand heat radiating from dry earth, while the open construction kept the foot cool. The braided straps and toe-ring ensured grip, flexibility, and endurance for people whose livelihoods depended on their feet. Similarly In Rajasthan, the mojari or jutti belonged to a different class. Made for nobility, storytellers, and performers, these shoes carried stitched panels and curved toes, a balance of protection and ornament that represented the Mughal royalty which is where the name of the collection comes from. But it was also worn by men and women in rural Rajasthan as a necessary daily item for activities like agricultural work, tending to livestock. Both forms were shaped by geography, climate, and culture, translating everyday realities into design.
It is into this lineage that Gully Labs steps with its Shaahi Collection. The brand, known for its tightly curated drops and its focus on Indian voices in sneaker design, has consistently drawn from the street while working with the mastery of ateliers. With Shaahi, Gully Labs turns to two of the subcontinent’s most storied footwear traditions, filtering their intent and structure into a new vocabulary of sneakers and sandals. The collection examines what made these shoes necessary and meaningful in the first place — their durability, adaptability, and elegance, and builds upon that logic.
The collection offers two sneakers, inspired by the mojari, featuring seamless leather uppers, layered panels that echo traditional jutti construction, and hand-stitched toe boxes. Their tones recall landscapes like sand dunes, marble courtyards, weathered stone, while cushioned insoles ground them in contemporary comfort. Alongside them are two sandals shaped after the Kolhapuri chappal. These retain the unmistakable toe-ring braid and woven leather detailing, but soften the experience with suede or napa footbeds and sturdy grip outsoles. Embossed welts and precise hand-stitching preserve the artisanal character while refining proportion and fit for urban wear.
In Shaahi's reimagination, the collection reveals how Indian craft holds lessons for contemporary design. Mojari and Kolhapuri were iterative objects, adapted over centuries to climate, class, and labour. By reworking them into sneakers and sandals, Gully Labs points to a future where Indian aesthetics are not relegated to 'heritage' but actively shape the language of global fashion. The Shaahi Collection brings attention to India’s design intelligence, especially in its ability to merge endurance, adaptability, and beauty; qualities that continue to define how we walk through the present.
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