This Government Initiative Is Reviving Traditional Indian Handlooms

In the age of fast fashion - a capitalist force that is impossible to stop - it’s always refreshing to come across people who are trying to pay their necessary dues to the rich culture and traditions of India. Whether it’s Delhi-based Swarang Designs that is helping revive the lost art of Madhubani painting or artist Aaquib Wani’s hand-painted denim jackets made in collaboration with local artists in the country’s capital, efforts are being made by individuals across the country to take the road less travelled. But in the grand scheme of things these efforts contribute very little to the macro forces that are already at play. Generally speaking, our traditional art forms are dying a slow death and the artisans who have been practicing these art forms for generations too are struggling because of the dwindling demand and awareness. However, a recent initiative by the Ministry of Textiles is encouraging Indian fashion labels to work directly with traditional artisans for their upcoming collection.

An MoU signed between the government and several Indian fashion labels will attempt to create a unique platform for small artisans across the country. The idea is to bridge the gap between the two by getting rid of middlemen who put unnecessary pressure on the entire clothing chain. Although this will also get rid of certain additional costs, it won’t reduce the price of the clothes. In fact, the idea is to ensure that the artisans are compensated fairly for their efforts and time, and dying art forms find a new life.

It’s a well-known fact that India’s handlooms are a generational legacy closely associated with the country’s culture and heritage, and these artisans are the sole reason why handlooms have managed to survive despite the increasing competition. “We want to keep this skill alive as we want our coming generations to carry the values of our forefathers,” the artisans tell Homegrown. “With the advent of powerlooms and large scale textile manufacturing and faster turn around time, the products by them are preferred over ours. But we still have customers, who value handmade craftsmanship, coming to purchase from us”, they add.

While fair and adequate monetary compensation is definitely an upside, the artisans are overwhelmed at the thought of their creations being available in bigger markets. “We are very proud of the tradition that I have been practicing. We want the end consumer to be able to differentiate an original print from a duplicate”, says another artisan while expounding on the kind of effort that goes into making handloom.

For Nutan, an artisan from Jaipur, Rajasthan, it takes an entire day for his family of 3-4 to make around 2-3 metres of handloom. While the rest of the process depends on availability of yarn, colour etc., it takes them almost 20 days to showcase the first cut fabrics. Proving that the amount of effort that goes into making handloom fabric is unparalleled. Moreover, artisans like Nutan have, over the years, built a repertoire of skill and equipment necessary to make good quality fabrics. His family has been perfecting block printing for three generations.

“Moreover, the work of these artisans is affected by various external factors. For example, there are a lot of dyes which behave differently winters as compared to summers. Sometimes, the weave is also affected by the mood of the artisan or by how exhausted they might be. This isn’t exactly a defect but it just shows how many stories there are behind each fabric”, says Gaurav, a fashion designer who is currently working on this initiative with True Blue Handcrafted, a contemporary fashion label. True Blue Handcrafted’s upcoming collection will showcase the work of artisans from Rajasthan. “Currently 200 artisans across different clusters are working with us for SS’19 Rajasthan launch,” said Mr. Kulin Lalbhai, Executive Director, Arvind Limited.

In a world where almost everything is mechanised and standardised, it’s refreshing to witness this surge of responsible production by not just independent designers but the government too.

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