Aromatic Alchemy Across Centuries: Step Inside Delhi's Oldest Perfumery

The perfumery's legacy isn't merely a collection of scents; it's a living chronicle, a sensory bridge that transcends centuries.gestalten

Published on:

14 Aug 2023, 12:28 pm

4 min read

Nestled within the labyrinthine lanes of Chandni Chowk, a bustling enclave established by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan where history's whispers linger amidst vibrant commerce, an olfactory gem stands as a testament to time itself – Gulab Singh Johrimal, Delhi's oldest perfumery. Established in 1816 by Lala Gulab Singh and his son Lala Johrimal, this aromatic haven preserves the essence of ages, inviting us to embark on a fragrant journey through its scented corridors. The perfumery's legacy isn't merely a collection of scents; it's a living chronicle, a sensory bridge that transcends centuries.

Mukul Gundhi, the custodian of this aromatic heritage, ushers visitors into the hallowed chambers of the perfumery. With an air of reverence, he shares the ancestral wisdom that infuses every note crafted within its walls. Beyond mere perfumes, these elixirs bear the essence of tradition, echoing the artistry passed down through generations. Gulab Singh Johrimal stands as an unyielding monument amidst Delhi's ever-changing urban landscape. The Gundhi family's devotion to their craft resonates in every waft that emanates from their creations. Their distilleries, nestled amid Uttar Pradesh's flower fields, mirror their commitment to authenticity, preserving nature's essence in each bottle.

L: Mukul Gundh R: Praful Gundhi, his brother, who also helps me manage the store Gestalten

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Within these scented walls, history breathes. The perfumery's clientele, a series of luminaries, includes the daughters of Akbar Shah II and the poetic soul of Bahadur Shah Zafar, the last Emperor of India. These fragrances, borne witness to empires and revolutions, have etched their presence into the very fabric of the perfumery. In an interview with The Better India, Mukul recollects vivid imageries of festivals like Diwali, where the perfumery's fragrance intertwined seamlessly with the celebrations. He recalls assisting his father during these bustling times, an apprenticeship that transformed into an intrinsic part of his being. Today, the eighth generation continues this legacy, ensuring its perpetuity through time.

A Gulab Singh Johrimal worker using local, organic, and handpicked ingredientsArkaprava Ghosh, The Essence

A 1852 wall clock adds to the old-world charm of the shopThe Better India

Gulab Singh Johrimal's creations are more than perfumes; they are masterpieces of devotion and skill. The centuries-old art of Deg Bhapka remains an essential pillar of ittar production. Fresh flower petals and water are put inside voluminous copper pots, degs, which are sealed with a blend of cotton and clay to preserve the natural essence. Bridging these vessels, a sturdy bamboo conduit connects to the Bhapka, nestled in a water tank, where the transformative process begins with the gentle kindling of dung cakes and wood.

The resulting distillate undergoes a patient cooling before being collected and nurtured by skilled hands. This essence, laden with nature's mysteries, embarks on a second journey within an empty copper vessel, undergoing another delicate distillation. Thus, the cherished ittar emerges, a testament to tradition and alchemical finesse, perpetuating its legacy within the perfumery's manufacturing unit in Siktara, Hathras, Uttar Pradesh.

The stages of extraction in the 'Deg Bhapka' method The Better India

Customization is an intricate art, a process that demands an intimate understanding of each patron's desires. Amidst a world driven by instant gratification, Gulab Singh Johrimal remains steadfast in its dedication to creating bespoke fragrances. With the price of sandalwood oil rising, many perfumeries are opting for synthetic versions of the oil but Gulab Singh Johrimal is not one of them. Mukul's resolve to honor the perfumery's legacy of authenticity echoes through each carefully curated concoction in crystal flasks.

Ittars stored in crystal flasksMansi Thapliyal

The pure ittars are also a big seller for us along with the blended sandalwood, rose and even khus (vetiver). The best part is that one will find a fragrance to fit your budget. Our prices range from Rs 100 for the 10 ml blend perfume and goes up to Rs 28,000 for 10 ml of Ruh Gulab.

Mukul Gundhi, in an interview with the Better India

Perfumes made from oil extractsMansi Thapliyal

Varieties of perfume on display inside cupboardsMansi Thapliyal

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Gulab Singh Johrimal's allure extends far beyond the confines of time, captivating souls like Oscar-winning composer AR Rahman and former Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. Fragrances like Ruh Gulab transcend their physical form, finding reverence in temples across the nation. Each note is a testament to the perfumery's devotion, an aromatic legacy that has stood the test of time.

More than a mere establishment, Gulab Singh Johrimal is a repository of fragrant memories, a sanctuary where history's essence mingles with delicate glass decanters. It's a guardian of aromas that have witnessed the ebb and flow of epochs, encapsulating the spirit of the ages. The perfumery's legacy lives on, each generation adding a verse to the symphony that defines Delhi's oldest perfumery – a fragrant ode to eternity.

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Chandni Chowk