Shahu Patole’s New Book Serves Up A Powerful Critique Of Caste Through The Lens Of Food

Shahu Patole's groundbreaking book, 'Dalit Kitchens of Marathwada', transcends a mere cookbook. It's a powerful memoir that delves into the heart of Maharashtra's Marathwada and serves up a potent critique of the caste system through the lens of food. Patole, a Dalit himself, sheds light on the culinary practices of the Mahar and Mang communities, who've been historically relegated to the fringes of society.

The book portrays the 'poor man's patchwork plate', a stark contrast to the elaborate meals enjoyed by upper castes. Traditionally denied access to resources like milk, ghee, and oil, Dalit cuisine is a testament to resourcefulness. Recipes feature an array of lesser-known ingredients, showcasing the communities' ability to create deliciousness from scarcity. Patole's exploration goes beyond mere sustenance; it highlights how food becomes a cornerstone of cultural identity; a way to preserve traditions passed down through generations.

The book also delves into the weaponization of food as a means of enforcing social hierarchy. Hindu scriptures prescribed specific dietary guidelines for each caste, dictating what was considered "sattvic" (pure) or "tamasic" (impure) based on social standing. Patole exposes the absurdity of this notion, questioning the idea that "one becomes what one eats". This critique challenges the very foundation of caste-based discrimination, where food becomes a tool to perpetuate social divisions.

Patole's vivid descriptions bring to life the hunting practices of the Mahar and Mang communities. From rabbits and monitor lizards to eggs and birds, these communities utilized whatever was available to supplement their meager diet. The detailed accounts not only showcase resourcefulness but also hint at a deeper connection with nature; a necessity born out of their marginalized position.

The book emphasizes the principle of "waste not, want not." Every part of the animal was utilized — bones were sold, and horns were used for practical purposes like snake repellents. This frugality stands in stark contrast to the abundance enjoyed by upper-caste farmers, who stored their surplus grains in massive underground chambers. The poignant metaphor of the "shingat pev" (horn-sized storage) exposes the vast disparity in food security between the two social groups.

Despite the harsh realities, Patole also reveals a spirit of resilience. Proverbs and sayings pepper the narrative, laced with a dark humour. Phrases like "Deed dana an Mang/Mahar utana" (lie down flat for a grain and a half) expose the underlying pain of poverty with a sardonic chuckle. This ability to find humour even in hardship speaks volumes about the enduring spirit of the Dalit communities.

Dalit Kitchens of Marathwada is more than a culinary exploration; it's a call to dismantle social constructs. By deconstructing the link between food and caste, Patole challenges us to see food as a universal human experience; a common thread that binds us together. This groundbreaking text not only documents a rich culinary heritage but also paves the way for a more equitable future where food is a source of celebration, not division.

You can buy the book here.

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