Ask anyone who lives in a body that is bigger than size 'XS/S', and they'd tell you all the ways in which have been adviced to make themselves smaller - to wear darker hues and slimming silhouettes and to learn complex but important rules of styling outfits. The idea of taking up more space in the world was something that I personally dreaded. But over the last decade or so, the difficult relationship I had with my body has finally started to ease up. I’ve become unapologetic about the space I occupy in the world. Every time someone comments on the size of my body, I now tell them that being bigger means there is more of ‘me’ for the world. The overarching shift in mindset towards body neutrality and focusing on progress over perfection when it comes to wellness have all contributed to this. And I have seen the same extend to the world of fashion as well.
When I discovered the profile of Yashana Malhotra aka Out Of Your Gaze, I was mesmerised by the larger-than-life approach she has taken to crafting her own clothes. As I got ready for a call with the UK-based designer, I was wondering how she’d show up for our scheduled Zoom call. Lo and behold, there she was in a gorgeous black ensemble with statement sleeves, rosy cheeks and her French Bob cut to perfection. In a world where fast fashion and fleeting trends continue to thrive, Yashana stands out from a single glance, as an unapologetically Avant-Garde designer; an artist whose pieces are about self-expression and creativity rather than adhering to trends.
When we get started with our conversation, Yashana mentions how she loves to take up more space in the world, and while her attire may seem to be those that is ‘done for the gram’, it is anything but. She shared how she goes about her day - from going grocery shopping to taking the subway in London in her voluminous pieces. But the best part, she shared, was the wide berth and personal space that she is somehow given owing to her attire. “Nobody wants to sit next to, or even in front of the girl wearing outfits with big statement sleeves” she shared with a chuckle and compared it to almost having a force field cast from her attire before we delved into her personal journey.
The Origin Story
Yashana’s early life was a blend of contrasting cultures. With roots that extend between Delhi and Dehradun, childhood in the countryside of Yorkshire, and University in the bustling streets of London, her journey transcends borders and defies the conventional path of fashion designers. Quite soon after moving to the UK at the age of seven, she found herself in the tranquil Yorkshire countryside. “It’s like the Indian equivalent of a gown,” she mentioned, recalling the peacefulness that Yorkshire offered—a stark contrast to her origins in India. This duality of experiences has influenced her design sensibilities, where the complexity of Indian culture and craft merges with the understated elegance and structure of the English countryside.
Yashana’s love for design didn’t stem from a lifelong passion or early childhood dream. Instead, it began in her late teens as a form of self-expression. “I was around 16 or 17 when I realised I didn’t like much of the clothing available, so I started experimenting,” she recalls. What began as altering school jumpers and adding quirky details soon evolved into a more serious pursuit. However, her design ethos is rooted in originality and a desire to create from scratch. "If it's not made entirely by me, I don't claim it," she shared. Her commitment to originality also pushed her to transition from merely altering thrifted pieces to creating garments from the ground up.
Central Saint Martins And The Turning Point
Her formal education at Central Saint Martins (CSM), one of the most prestigious fashion schools in the world, was where her creative instincts were honed. She completed both her Foundation and BA there, and though she briefly considered pursuing a Master's, she remains undecided. “If I was to do a Masters, I may go back there, or maybe to the Royal College of Art,” she reflects, acknowledging the stature of these institutions while hinting at her lifelong desire to carve out her own path.
Despite her growing interest, Yashana was initially reluctant to share her work. “I was a very mysterious babe back then,” she admits. While I expected the designer to have been a Tumblr girl, she mentions how she refused to be photographed for the longest time, and still doesn’t have documented images of her earlier designs.
It wasn’t until her teachers at Central Saint Martins pushed her to start documenting and sharing her designs that she began to embrace her identity as a designer. This shift marked the beginning of her journey toward developing a personal style that would later become her signature. Through her final year at CSM Yashana truly began to embrace her style - one that has since become her signature.
Her placement year during the COVID-19 pandemic was a turning point, allowing her the time and space to fully immerse herself in the craft. It was during this period that Yashana began to develop the oversized, anti-fit silhouettes that have become synonymous with her brand.
“I always wanted to be a conceptual designer, someone artistic,” she says, recalling her resistance to the idea of being anything else. Yet, her style—oversized, anti-fit designs with a distinctly avant-garde edge - began to emerge organically, supported by the encouragement of her mentors.
Avant-Garde Inspiration And Intuitive Design
Yashana's designs are characterised by their billowing volume, often balanced with intricate details or structured elements. Each piece tells a specific story, whether it’s a playful nod to her childhood attire, but in oversized silhouettes or a more refined garment that reflects her current state of mind. Her design process is unconventional and intuitive, driven by the fabric itself rather than pre-drawn sketches. “I let the fabric inform the design. It’s very spontaneous—I lay it out, cut it, join it together, and it’s done,” she says. This organic approach allows her to create pieces that are not unique but also a direct reflection of her current mood and energy. She shared her process with me over our call and mentioned how, “Even now, my designs are not thought out; they just happen. I get a fabric, and when I’m in the mood, I cut it up and wear it.”
Authenticity is unwaveringly at the heart of Yashana's design philosophy. She describes her creative process as spontaneous and organic, allowing the fabric to inform the design rather than forcing a preconceived idea onto it. “If the fabric wants to hold structure, it isn’t going to be flowy,” she explains, illustrating her intuitive approach to design. This method, she believes, keeps her work pure and free from the overwhelming influence of external fashion trends.
Her designs are deeply influenced by her artistic sensibilities, which she cultivates by immersing herself in the world of art rather than fashion. She avoids consuming too much fashion content, preferring to draw inspiration from galleries, sculptures, and performance art. “I think like an artist, and I want to present as an artist, even if it's through fashion,” she explains.
She shared how even shows like "House of the Dragon" have inspired her design journey and exploration. The deliberate distance she keeps from the mainstream fashion world, she believes, is something that allows her to maintain her perspective, and to remain untainted by the over-saturated fashion imagery, but rather being able to create pieces that blur the lines between fashion and art.
The Path Ahead; Out of Your Gaze
Looking ahead, Yashana’s goals are clear: to continue creating from a place of freedom. Whether it’s through clothing, art, or any other medium, she is driven by the need for a creative outlet. “There’s nothing else I would rather do than be free and create,” she shared. For her, garments are not just about fashion; it’s about living a life that is true to oneself, a life that allows for continuous evolution and exploration.
While she crafts pieces for herself, Yashana has also started doing commisioned pieces for dedicated customers who know and love her design approach. She shared how she even has a returning client for whom she makes ‘surprise’ boxes that are almost the antithesis of couture. For these, Yashana crafts original pieces for the client, and they have no idea what the design is going to be until they open the box with the finished garment, instead of the typical approach in custom attire where all the designs are made to fit the demands of the client.
She does understands that a lot of people might have self-doubt when it comes to wearing larger-than-life attire like she does. So for her clients, she does pare down design elements, while still staying true to her creative vision. Through her pieces and her page, Yashana Malhotra is crafting attire and starting a dialogue around fashion as a form of unbound self-expression. Her designs and her content are not limited by fleeting trends, but rather driven by the need for creative freedom to show up as who you truly are, beyond the limits of social acceptance and established norms.
Follow her here.
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