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There are many ways to describe the concept of Rasa when you look at the vastness of South Asian history and heritage. Literally, it means the ‘essence’ of something, especially in the artistic sense. But in its many forms, one emotion that the word evokes for me is 'playfulness'. RAFU’D, a sustainable contemporary fashion label from Vapi, Gujarat, has tapped into this concept in their latest collection. Founded by designer Shaishavi Mehta, RAFU’D is a brand that crafts premium, fun, pret with a “dedication to handwork, textures, and the fusion of narrative textiles with today's fashion.”
Their recently launched 'Rasa' collection was inspired by the narrative art form of Pichvai painting, which originated in Rajasthan’s Nathdwara.
“Pichvai art serves as a breathtaking backdrop in places of worship, bringing the sacred stories to life. This collection honours the deep cultural heritage of Pichvai while reimagining it through contemporary prints and modern silhouettes.”
Shaishavi Mehta, Founder & Designer, RAFU'D
The expressive painting style that came into being in the early 1600s was primarily an offering to the community’s beloved god and presiding deity at the nearby temple: Shrinathji, a 700+-year-old form of Krishna. The paintings captured aspects of adornment, emotions, mood, music, food, and dancing, all of which encompass the worship of Shrinathji. By connecting these emotions and motifs to how they are often presented in temples as backdrops for idols, the idea for RAFU’D’s Rasa Collection started to take form.
The origins of the Pichvai art form are indivisibly linked to the Natyashastra, the ancient treatise on performing arts. For the Rasa collection, RAFU’D has also drawn upon the way decorative backdrops were historically used in traditional dramas and plays of yore. The Pichvais often depicted the Lila, the divine play of Lord Krishna. From the dramatic, narrative elements of the smiling sun to the nuances of the epic stories, the art form has been captured in vivid hues and varied motifs.
Baag is a range within the Rasa collection that showcases the lush gardens seen in Pichvai paintings. The vibrant flora and fauna depicted in these garden scenes come to life through the intricate designs of the garments, especially the lotus or ‘Kamal’. The collection incorporates traditional butti patterns that were seen on the clothes of the time and seamlessly blends into the modern silhouettes of the collection.
The likeness of the peacock 'Mor', a symbol of grace and beauty in Pichvai paintings, also finds its place in the collection, adding another layer of cultural richness to the designs. With each motif being named after traditional Pichvai painting elements, RAFU’D is steadfast in their storytelling.
Through these elements, RAFU’D has captured the ‘Rasa’ of the art form as handcrafted, narrative clothes. The lively motifs, handwoven textures, and play on colours and prints invite the RAFU’D wearer to draw upon themselves and assert their identity as someone who wears tradition, quite literally, on their sleeves. According to the brand, "With ‘Rasa’, RAFU’D invites you to step into a world where ancient traditions meet modern creativity. Each garment is a tribute to the enduring beauty of Pichvai, crafted to bring the sacred stories and vibrant spirit of Nathdwara into your everyday life.”
You can follow RAFU'D here.
