I've been planning this trip to Calcutta for the better part of my last three years, and now that it’s finally done, I had a fairly long list of things I wanted to experience. I’ve always been one to travel with F&B establishments somewhere near the top of my itinerary, which also explains why a city with Calcutta's culinary history had occupied a spot on my travel wishlist for so long. Between its legendary kathi rolls, old-world eateries, Chinese food and an impressive (barely talked about) drinking culture, I had plenty of catching up to do.

What I hadn't accounted for was just how much Calcutta drinks. Bombay has its dive bars and Delhi has its suspiciously well-kept secrets, but Calcutta has been getting people drunk long enough to have developed a drinking culture of its own. The city seems to be especially fond of its neighbourhood bars, where affordable pegs, familiar faces and plates of something fried can keep an evening going for hours. Some of these establishments have been around for generations, carrying stories of the people who frequented them, while others have developed their own reputations through the business of serving good drinks at prices that won't require a follow up conversation with your bank.

For anyone who enjoys exploring a city's food and beverage scene beyond the usual restaurant recommendations, these bars deserve to be a part of your next visit to Cal. The interiors may have seen better days, the menus might require a little squinting, and a few establishments come with their own set of instructions for first-time visitors, but that's part of the appeal. Some of these places can look a little intimidating from the outside, but Calcutta has a way of making you feel welcome before you've even figured out what to order. A few rounds in, you're usually well on your way to understanding why their regulars keep coming back.

Here's my guide to four of the city's more divey drinking establishments, starting around Mangoe Lane and making our way through the neighbourhoods of central and south Calcutta. You can even turn it into a bar crawl, provided your tolerance and your travel companions (thank you, chef) are on board.

Located at 3/1 Mangoe Lane in BBD Bagh, Café Monte Carlo is the sort of establishment that requires a little determination to locate. Its address places it among the lanes of central Calcutta, where the surrounding office district supplies a fairly dependable crowd of people looking to exchange their workday for a few drinks.

Honestly, the food is a good enough reason to make the trip. Café Monte Carlo has earned mentions for its fish preparations, including mourala and bhetki, alongside other common snacks such as dry chilli chicken and fish fingers. For a city that takes its fish seriously, this is hardly a surprise. Calcutta has never needed much convincing when it comes to putting seafood on the table, and a bar that pairs it with reasonably priced drinks has a fairly persuasive proposition.

It’s also a supposed favourite among Dalhousie office-goers, with its affordable liquor and substantial snack menu making it a convenient post-work stop. The interiors are dim and somewhat cramped, with seating arrangements that prioritise getting people fed and watered over giving everyone a generous amount of elbow room. If you're particularly tall, you might want to negotiate your seating situation before settling in for the evening.

Empire Bar, located on Chowringhee Road, is a neighbourhood establishment with a reputation for an old-school drinking atmosphere. Situated within reach of the Rabindra Sadan and Academy of Fine Arts circuit, it makes for a convenient stop after spending an afternoon exploring the cultural institutions around this part of Calcutta.

The menu includes Indo-Chinese classics and other familiar bar-plate options, with chilli fish among the dishes recommended by diners. The prices are accessible, the service is informal, the music gets you chatty and the establishment has the sort of atmosphere that doesn't require anyone to dress according to a dress code drafted by a committee.

However, Empire has another rather important attraction, and I would argue that he deserves a mention in any guide to the establishment. Meet Jogi, the resident dog, who is quite possibly the best reason to add this bar to your itinerary. If you're visiting Empire, do look out for him and say hello, provided he's in the mood for company. A good neighbourhood bar should have a few regulars, and Jogi appears to have secured his place among them without having to buy a single round.

For a bar with a rather unassuming entrance, a surprisingly lively crowd and enough history in case you need an ice breaker.

Tripty's has been around since 1935, which gives it a head start over most establishments currently competing to become the city's next big nightlife destination. By now, Tripty's has probably seen more drinking trends come and go than most of us have had birthdays. It has changed hands three times since opening, but continues to attract a loyal clientele in Bhawanipore.

Finding the entrance is part of the experience. From the outside, Tripty's has the appearance of a place you might walk past without giving it a second glance, and its rather unassuming entryway does little to prepare you for the number of people inside. Once you make your way in, however, the establishment opens up into a lively drinking space with a considerable crowd. The AC and non-AC seating sections also give visitors an option, depending on how much they value their comfort while drinking on a budget. A useful arrangement, especially in Calcutta.

Tripty's was originally established by Bani Rani, and the establishment has been associated with prominent figures from Bengali cinema and theatre, including filmmaker Ritwik Ghatak and actor Tarun Kumar, who were known to frequent the bar. Their association with the establishment is also linked to its food, particularly the mutton liver kosha that accompanied their drinks. For a city with such an extensive cultural history, the places where its artists ate, drank and spent their time can be as revealing as the monuments built in their honour.

Speaking of food, Tripty's has its own way of making sure you don't spend too much time wondering what to order. The tables themselves have pictures of food printed on them, so you can technically skip the menu and begin your selection process before the staff gets to your table. It's a fairly efficient system, particularly for those of us who require an unreasonable amount of time to decide what to eat.

Located at 63 Shyama Prasad Mukherjee Road in Hazra, Raul's Restaurant is a neighbourhood bar and restaurant that has been serving the area for years. Its location near Jatin Das Park Metro makes it accessible to people exploring this part of south Calcutta, while its combination of drinks and generous food portions gives it a place among the city's more affordable drinking establishments.

On the food front, Raul's sticks to the kind of bar menu that's hard to argue with: fried rice, noodles, chilli chicken and a few fish snacks to go with your drinks. It's the sort of menu that works particularly well when a group wants to order a few things for the table and keep the drinks coming. Also, feel free to opt for a half-plate while you're in Cal, which is useful when the group has already ordered enough food to feed a family but someone insists on trying one more thing.

Raul's makes for a convenient final stop on the south Calcutta leg of your crawl, particularly if you've already worked your way through a few rounds at Tripty's. And if you've been sensible enough to order half portions along the way, you might even have room for one last plate.

Exploring Calcutta through its bars is a great way of getting acquainted with a part of the city that doesn't always make it onto the usual travel itineraries. Between the history of its older establishments, your chakhna, the regulars and the rituals that come with each visit, there's plenty to discover beyond the usual restaurant and nightlife circuit.

These four establishments offer a starting point for anyone interested in the city's older drinking culture, whether you're looking for a plate of kosha, a fish snack with your beer or an introduction to the sweetest neighbourhood dog. Just remember to keep some room for food, check the opening hours before setting out, and perhaps don't make any ambitious plans for the morning after.

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